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Can you feel the difference? upgraded O2 house/intake/ex. mani...

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well two setups for you,

my old 1g,
after I put a B16g on it, it pulled a hell of a lot harder(from 14b with 3" side exhaust)
both with MBC's set at 12-14psi
also had punishments 2.5" 02 housing, and K&N filter

my current 1g,
from COMPLETELY stock a month ago,

about a week ago I put full Apexi N1 (good fitment/build but expensive)
That on an entirely stock engine lets it breath a little more, but not a whole lot.
I FINALLY replaced the stock intake on it,
K&N with short dejon pipe,
Now it pulls how it should past 4-5k, and with good intake sounds to boot.
I also pulled out the BISS restricter while I had everything apart,

:beatentodeath: stock 1g's!
 
its a little piece of rubber that you can pull out of the boost controller thing,
Ok makes more sense. I was like, "there's no restrictor on the Base Idle Set ScrewLOL ."

Also I removed the metal/cardboard restrictor, when I saw it I was like wtf! no!
LOL yea that's the 'intake muffler' I was talking about.
 
Go with the hard intake pipe cause it will add into having a well rounded mod list that will support each other. My boy Tim over at www.punishment-racing.com has a GREAT street FMIC set-up with short route piping. It should be good for your needs.
 
The only mod to the fuel system i'm planning is a rewired stock F.P. Gonna stick with the 14b as well. I'll ditch the 2g o2 housing and put on a ported 2g mani. It sounds like FMIC's really give some major power... how much for a FMIC setup? I'm definately not planning on anywhere over 300whp with a FWD car w/o a LSD. I want a nice backroads car, not a dragster.

Nah definitly get a fuel pump, a walbro 190 will do you great as you wont need a afpr.
You dont want to skimp out on fuel especially if you have boost creep issues down the line like I do. Besides a fuel pump upgrade is only like 70 or 80 bucks I mean come on.

Also like i mentioned earlier not one piece is ment to give X and O amount of hp.
Everything has to work together as a whole, so therefore in your case put mods together in stages not by oh what piece does the most hp.

You probably will say this is all too much money which do what you do, but this is what Id recommend for you...

walbro 190 fuel pump upgrade - 80
evo3 gt manifold- 145
stage 3 dsm chip- 120
3in o2 housings- 125 ( i was on punishmentracing.com looking at their prices)
750cc injectiors - 269 on fuelinjectorclinic.com ( You dont have to get 750s you can get bigger, if you have a chip doesnt matter )
FMIC kit- 400 + ( This is the best mod for you but the most expensive )
2g or evo8 mass air sensor - 50- 100 bucks ( If you had a chip might as well get this too since it can control it like stock.)
Intake filter and mass adaptor- 40bucks for both ( can be found at pepboys or auto stores. )
Dsm datalogger- 120 ( We all should have one of these on a modded dsm.)

But just right there youd be able to max out your stock turbo reliably and safely and have a good set up.
Not to sound biased but im kind of giving you what I did on my set up because I am on a budget as well. Just takes a little saving and a little time.
Spend a little now or a lot more later.
 
If your looking for the parts that have the most effect. Why do you have a 3inch dowpipe and a 2.5 cat and cat back ? An intake isn't even expensive so I don't see why there is a debate. A three inch intake is going to flow better and yes you will here a difference and I think it's up to you whether or not you feel the difference. After looking at your mod list I was wondering why you bought Ngk Plugs and Wires. Why not just new stock ones, You can't feel the differece. If you want to feel a difference get an Evo 3 turbo, bigger injectors, and fuel pump. Then turn the boost up then you will feel a difference.
 
If your looking for the parts that have the most effect. Why do you have a 3inch dowpipe and a 2.5 cat and cat back ? An intake isn't even expensive so I don't see why there is a debate. A three inch intake is going to flow better and yes you will here a difference and I think it's up to you whether or not you feel the difference. After looking at your mod list I was wondering why you bought Ngk Plugs and Wires. Why not just new stock ones, You can't feel the differece. If you want to feel a difference get an Evo 3 turbo, bigger injectors, and fuel pump. Then turn the boost up then you will feel a difference.

NGK's are reccommended by a few members here and the accel wires were under $40. both of these are maintenance related, which is what i spend most of my time addressing. The 3" DP is a megan racing unit, which i got for $140 shipped. The 2.5" cat replaced my factory broken once for only $60, and im sticking with 2.5" catback piping to keep sound levels down.

I think i will do an intake as there seems to be a high recommendation. I might do a FP but the rewired unit flow specs are very good and i should hit fuel cut before i outflow the factory unit. thats one of the reasons why mitsu programmed the fuel cut in the first place.

I'm a noob, so what all does a datalogger tell you and how hard is it to install?
 
NGK's are reccommended by a few members here and the accel wires were under $40. both of these are maintenance related, which is what i spend most of my time addressing. The 3" DP is a megan racing unit, which i got for $140 shipped. The 2.5" cat replaced my factory broken once for only $60, and im sticking with 2.5" catback piping to keep sound levels down.

I think i will do an intake as there seems to be a high recommendation. I might do a FP but the rewired unit flow specs are very good and i should hit fuel cut before i outflow the factory unit. thats one of the reasons why mitsu programmed the fuel cut in the first place.

I'm a noob, so what all does a datalogger tell you and how hard is it to install?

Depends on the logger you get but they all plug into the dianostic port near the fuse box and they tell you anything from rpms, to knock, to water temps, etc.
Also having a 2.5 exhaust doesnt make your car quieter, you could achieve the same sound levels, or even less if you went with a 3in exhaust system, and put 3in sound resonators, but that isnt even nessecary on some cars. I believe tune can affect noise level, mines was a lot louder before I installed the key diver chip. For instance its louder when i first start it in the mourning before it fully warms up and switches maps. I dont know if anyone else has exp. with noise fluctuations like this?
I have no cat and no muffler right now on my full 3in turbo back system and its not loud at all at cruising its just noisey at idle in my driveway.
Your holding yourself back with 2.5 exhaust, in a way technically, you might as well not even have a 3in dp because your engine only flows as good as your greatest restriction. and especially if its crushbent.
The only noise difference i noticed with different exhaust sizing is from my experience it seems the turbo spools/ whistles louder the bigger the exhaust, and whistles REALLY loud on open dp.
 
I think i will do an intake as there seems to be a high recommendation. I might do a FP but the rewired unit flow specs are very good and i should hit fuel cut before i outflow the factory unit. thats one of the reasons why mitsu programmed the fuel cut in the first place.

I'm a noob, so what all does a datalogger tell you and how hard is it to install?

They say "a word to the wise is sufficient". . .

Don't drive around w/ a boost level (or engine total airflow level) that will put you in fuel cut. In fact it is better to push injectors to over 100% idc than to cause fuel cut (IF those are the only two options you're willing to work w/). I don't recommend running over 100% IDC either (IF you have a wide band operating at all times then it would ease my concience a little, but 100% is he!! on your injectors). Just keep your idc under 90% for now and when you hit fuel cut, pick your teeth from the steering wheel and back the boost off enough so that you don't hit it. It is never good to put the engine in a sudden lean condition (fuel cut). It is a safety measure and a wakeup call. I'm not flaming just giving some words of caution.

A good logger is the scanmaster. It has a live logging and high reading capture. If you want to record a run then it has a port for plugging in to a palm pilot. I hand soldered a cable w/ a serial port for a laptop and use tunerstein to record my runs while I use the scanmaster to monitor knock and O2 volts live. Tunerstein can do this for free (pluss the cost of the cable), BUT I don't like looking at my front passenger seat during a WOT pull:D .
 
Your holding yourself back with 2.5 exhaust, in a way technically, you might as well not even have a 3in dp because your engine only flows as good as your greatest restriction. and especially if its crushbent.
The only noise difference i noticed with different exhaust sizing is from my experience it seems the turbo spools/ whistles louder the bigger the exhaust, and whistles REALLY loud on open dp.

It'll be easier to fit 2.5" custom piping and easier to get bends for it. It's true that my 3" DP might not be used to its full potential if i do 2.5" exhaust but i do not think your exhaust flows only as good as your highest restriction, or else bolting on a downpipe on a stock car would make little difference as your greatest restrictions (small pipes and poor flowing muffler) have not changed.

I started a post about a custom side exit exhaust and i got some good advice. i know how to prevent clearance issues and i think it should be quiet enough with a good 24" long glasspack. I'll make sure that if i hit fuel cut ill dial the boost back. i had a leaking turbo compressor seal and i was hitting fuel cut frequently. its a terrible phenomenon!
 
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