Can not shift into any gears, pulled transmission

[mattp_65]

Have you measured crank thrust play?

I have not measured the Thrust play yet. Hopefully after the weekend.
Tim did you get my PM.

thanks
Matt

 

[twicks69]

I responded last night to it

 

[mattp_65]

I responded last night to it

I responded to your PM this morning. thanks for replying back

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Tim are you sugguesting crank walk?

 

[twicks69]

I am suggesting checking for it.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

That would be an interesting twist, matt hope for the best

 

[mattp_65]

There is no play in crank.
ok so I bled the line again and the slave cylinder and still no luck.
I wonder if I over tighten the pressure plate bolts too much, I might have set it to 35ftlbs instead of 25ftlbs.
I might have to drop the trans again. But any more suggestions from anyone before I drop it again.
Also I put in an extended slave rod and with not putting the pedal all the way down and still no luck, trying to find a spot where it engages.
Before the extended rod the travel was about 1/3".
Any help is appreciated.
thanks

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

I wonder if I over tighten the pressure plate bolts too much, I might have set it to 35ftlbs instead of 25ftlbs.

No, that's not gonna matter.

 

[livedsm4g63]

I had shep redo my pedal assembly, 6 months later it was bad again. (Same clutch as you.) Just saying, these were my same symptoms.

 

[mattp_65]

I had shep redo my pedal assembly, 6 months later it was bad again. (Same clutch as you.) Just saying, these were my same symptoms.

But my pedal assy is a 2g. There is more need to rebuild a 1G pedal assy.

 

[craig4g63]

Make sure the 10mm bolt is installed from the block side into the trans. Make sure all transmission to motor mounting bolts are torqued to spec.

 

[twicks69]

But my pedal assy is a 2g. There is more need to rebuild a 1G pedal assy.

It is still a 20 year old pedal assembly, you cannot rule that out. Either way, only having 1/3" of slave rod/clutch fork movement with full pedal extension screams that there is a problem to the hydraulic system / pedal assembly, or you have the clutch disk installed backwards and the pressure plate diaphragm spring is flat or inverted (concave instead of convex).

 

[mattp_65]

It is still a 20 year old pedal assembly, you cannot rule that out. Either way, only having 1/3" of slave rod/clutch fork movement with full pedal extension screams that there is a problem to the hydraulic system / pedal assembly, or you have the clutch disk installed backwards and the pressure plate diaphragm spring is flat or inverted (concave instead of convex).

ok installed new oem slave cylinder and still having issues of clutch engagement. Fork travel is still moving between 1/3" to 1/2" travel.
What else can cause this?

I triple checked to make sure that the disc is on the proper way. I guess its time to drop the trans again.

 

[koryto2012]

How are the release levers on your pressure plate? Try giving a push on all of them and see how stiff/loose they're.

 

[mattp_65]

How are the release levers on your pressure plate? Try giving a push on all of them and see how stiff/loose they're.

When I first got the Clutch it was stiff and not flat so I am assuming the PP is good.

It is still a 20 year old pedal assembly, you cannot rule that out. Either way, only having 1/3" of slave rod/clutch fork movement with full pedal extension screams that there is a problem to the hydraulic system / pedal assembly, or you have the clutch disk installed backwards and the pressure plate diaphragm spring is flat or inverted (concave instead of convex).

I will check out my pedal bushings. The fork is on the pivot ball and new release clip that was properly installed. Here are some pics of clutch fork travel.

Make sure the 10mm bolt is installed from the block side into the trans. Make sure all transmission to motor mounting bolts are torqued to spec.

I made sure to add that bolt on the rear side of the motor. it was missing before I dropped the trans and installed a bolt after switching out the clutch.

 

[hotrodssnova]

I have seen the rubber hose collapse and cause problems. On a 1 g. Not sure if the 2g has them or not. This is the hose that sits on the top of the trans. And connects the Mc to the slave cylinder hard line. Common practice is to replace with new braided hose.

 

[mattp_65]

Yeah does not seem there is any play in my pedal assy. I will bleed it another method. Seems like there is a couple methods out there.
E.g. 2-person bleed - person pushes pedal then break bleeder OR break bleeder then person pushes pedal, single person - speed bleeder. I dont know if there is anymore.
But so far New OEM slave and MC, resurfaced flywheel properly stepped, Southbend Clutch kit disc and PP, pivot ball and fork about 2k miles on them, SS line MC to Slave.
Anything else I'm missing.

 

[EGLTAWLN]

i have found if you bench bleed the master cylinder first(never let it run out empty again or you will have to redo the whole bench bleed)
and then attach the line leaving the master, allow it to drip from the lower banjo on the slave to bleed the air out of the clutch line,
then attach the lower line connection on the slave leaveing the slave bleed nipple open
always monitoring the fluid level in the master!

then pump pedal 3-5 times and release with the slave bleed nipple open. close bleed nipple.
check fluid level in master.
then open the slave nipple and push the clutch fork end towards the slave cylinder. hold it in the compressed position and close the bleed nipple.
release the fork and pump the pedal for pressure to see where you are.
you have to allow the slave to extend and retract to its maximum and minimum positions or else air bubbles will remain in the max and min.
another trick is to remove the rod from the fork, allow the slave to extend out of its cylinder(under the boot) open the nipple and then push in the rod until it bottoms out in the slave. then close the nipple before letting go.
and then maybe try some pump pump pump hold pedal, release nipple, bleed, retighten nipple, let go of pedal.
after a few rounds with no bubbles, i check where i am at and keep bleeding or go for a drive.
i had the same issue as your OP, but it seems one of my clutch springs broke, so hopefully when the new clutch shows up and i put it back together there are no gremlins like you are having. knock on wood.

 

[mattp_65]

Ok I will try your steps this weekend. I just ordered a new OEM Clutch master cylinder due to the fact I just drop the trans again and checked everything and added a small shim on pivot ball which is closer to the slave cylinder. I put everything back together and power bleed the crap out of it and still no luck. Only getting 1/3" of throw which is the same at where I started a month ago. There has to be something wrong in the hydraulics.
So far I have gone thru an Autozone Master cylinder (returned it), a used Nabco Master cylinder (maybe its bad) from a forum member, Now I just ordered a new Clutch master cylinder OEM (hoping this will solve my travel issue of the slave rod.
Installed right now is a new OEM slave cylinder, new SS line from master to slave, and a used NABCO Clutch MC (soon to be replaced with new OEM).
There has to be a reason why I am only getting fork travel of 1/3"
Any ideas?
thanks

 

[twicks69]

STOP power bleeding the setup. Do it by hand.

 

[mattp_65]

Ok I will do it by hand again when I get the new CMC.
Thanks

 

[mattp_65]

Got the new clutch MC and installed still having issues. Then I looked at my pedal assy and it shows cracks. I think this is my issue, any thoughts? How hard is it to replace the clutch pedal assy?

 

[kchaazz]

Got the new clutch MC and installed still having issues. Then I looked at my pedal assy and it shows cracks. I think this is my issue, any thoughts? How hard is it to replace the clutch pedal assy?

Wow, that sucker does look busted! Maybe it could be what your trouble is. Unfortunately, Ive been unable to find any info on fixing 2G pedals, as they don't share the same design and failure points as the 1G assembly does. You really are the first person Ive ever seen this happen to. If I were you, Id get with some of the guys who have done automatic trans swaps into their 5 speed cars, as they will have likely replaced the 5 speed pedals with the auto pedals and should know how to R&R the assembly.

 

[twicks69]

Here's pricing and part numbers on the associated replacement parts.

 

[mattp_65]

Here's pricing and part numbers on the associated replacement parts.

Thanks for the part numbers Tim. Is it better to replace the whole assy or the parts you gave me? Also does removing the whole assy make it easier or the part numbers you gave me?

thanks
Matt

@Kchazz I guess having an ACT 2600 clutch for 10 years creates havoc on the pedal. Switched to SBC after my 2nd ACT 2600 due to this problem I am having with engagement issue.