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Can exhaust too large cause stall??

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208DSM

10+ Year Contributor
48
0
Aug 9, 2011
Emmett, Idaho
WELL GUYS THE PROBLEM IS SOLVED!! it was my header and exhaust after all. the header was making my coil pack too hot causing it to stall out and the exhaust i came to find out was only 2 1/2in. the guy who sold it to me was wrong. thanks everyone for all the help!!i've done everything possible to solve my stalling problem in my 2G 420A. It has a brand new motor, new o2 sensor, cam sensor, cam sensor connector, crank sensor, coil pack, coil pack harness, fuel pump, fuel filter, cleaned throttle body, new IAC, new TB gasket, cleaned a-32 connector, and everything!! but i do have a megan racing header and 3" from the header back with a hi-flow cat? could my exhaust be too big and no back pressure? header be making something too hot? im running out of ideas and money:cry:. it never stalled until i put the exhaust on. i have spark and when it runs it runs GREAT. so please if you have ANYTHING to say that please do, i need all the help i can get. thanks.
 
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nope no matter how big your exhaust is , it wont b a reason for your car to stall like that , recheck mayb youv missed sumtin
 
Talk about throwing money at a problem.

When is it stalling? When you push in the clutch? When you start it? Randomly while driving? We need to know this.
 
its stalling randomly when im driving. not when putting in the clutch, not when starting. just will be driving, it'll bog out and brappp. dead. takes about 30-45mins to start back up then runs great again. makes no sense. nothing is unplugged or broke. i've gone over everything like 5 times.
 
Absolutely not, you can run your car's exhaust through any size piping. The bigger = the louder & less restriction

well what im just trying to get to is that it never did it till that exhaust went on. so imma take the header and downpipe off and do my stock manifold and exhaust to my catback system and see if that helps with all the heat.
 
Absolutely not, you can run your car's exhaust through any size piping. The bigger = the louder & less restriction

Yes but at a certain point it is useless to go any bigger!
if you plan to go all the way back to the rear bumper and you're not using the the full 3'' to its full advantage then you just wasting money on a 3in exhaust!

If you have a stock car with a 3in turbo back you have way less restriction till the exhaust gets half way back and starts to cool down loosing velocity and becoming a restriction all in it self, but then again this is the deep science end of it and you most likely wouldn't notice the performance differences all on your own!
Best thing to do is to just dump your exhaust out the side of you car!
 
Yes but at a certain point it is useless to go any bigger!
if you plan to go all the way back to the rear bumper and you're not using the the full 3'' to its full advantage then you just wasting money on a 3in exhaust!

If you have a stock car with a 3in turbo back you have way less restriction till the exhaust gets half way back and starts to cool down loosing velocity and becoming a restriction all in it self, but then again this is the deep science end of it and you most likely wouldn't notice the performance differences all on your own!
Best thing to do is to just dump your exhaust out the side of you car!

so you think going back to my stock exhaust would fix my problem? or at least doing my stock manifold, downpipe, and to my cat then leaving my catback would help with back pressure and relieve a lot of the heat on my motor?
 
Theoretically, an exhaust, or total lack of one will not make your car just stall out.

I was running open header on my sc1 at one point and it was fine.

Its not just the 3" exhaust im worried about, its the header that concerns me. i know lots of parts under the hood, coil pack for example, are heat sensitive and it hadnt stalled out till the header and exhaust went on.
 
If its just dying randomly, I would check wiring to your AFM/MAF. You could have a wire going bad and thus being restrictive and causing bad signal. You could also be getting a bad signal from your MAF. Where either your air filter is clogged and not allowing enough air flow or your MAF has a short. Another reason could be in your ECU based on how long it takes to restart. Like your caps are fried and basically allowing things to work until they reach a certain point, and then, nothing. Then things need to cool back down to tolerance to start working again.

I say the MAF because I had an issue like that on a supra a few years back and it had a bad ground wire off the AFM/maf that would work some times, and then was not conductive enough other times. Had to cut out a section of the wire and replace it with better newer wire and solder/heat shrink it to maintain a clean connection.

ECU's in DSM's have been problems for years and cause all kinds of issues, and thus would likely be the first place to look in your case since you basically said everything else is new. there are many places out there that could take a look at your ECU and tell you if it needs to be repaired, but if its your daily driver, you may want to pick up a known working ECU and swap em out since it takes a little time to repair and you would likely be without the car for a day or two for the repair and how ever long for shipping if u dont have someone locally.
 
well i had my MAF and my ecu checked already by 2 mechanics and they said they were both good.. i called another mechanic today, he said that my header and 3" exhaust could easily do it because of how big my exhaust is its giving my O2 sensor a wack signal which is being sent to my computer and messing up my fuel charts and what not? that's what he said. and also my header could be making things under my hood too hot since lots of my parts are heat sensitive? so that's just what he said, which im hoping is right since i have replaced EVERYTHING else and had it all tested on the computer.
 
Well why would they make them and people use them if it messed up a car.
Put the stocker back on if thats what you think the problem is.
But here is a really simple solution to see if it is the header............TAKE YOUR HOOD OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


well i had my MAF and my ecu checked already by 2 mechanics and they said they were both good.. i called another mechanic today, he said that my header and 3" exhaust could easily do it because of how big my exhaust is its giving my O2 sensor a wack signal which is being sent to my computer and messing up my fuel charts and what not? that's what he said. and also my header could be making things under my hood too hot since lots of my parts are heat sensitive? so that's just what he said, which im hoping is right since i have replaced EVERYTHING else and had it all tested on the computer.
 
Well why would they make them and people use them if it messed up a car.
Put the stocker back on if thats what you think the problem is.
But here is a really simple solution to see if it is the header............TAKE YOUR HOOD OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

hey bro im not trying to argue or anything. i really appreciate all your guys opinions and stuff. im just trying to give out all the info i have recieved so you guys can help me out ya know? i've had cars with headers, they never did it, but im just saying like it never did it till 4 days after exhaust went on.
 
:coy:Im sorry it wasnt supposed to come out like that.Just giving some ideas.Something is wrong some were. But just take the hood off and see if it helps and lets us know if it helps any.


hey bro im not trying to argue or anything. i really appreciate all your guys opinions and stuff. im just trying to give out all the info i have recieved so you guys can help me out ya know? i've had cars with headers, they never did it, but im just saying like it never did it till 4 days after exhaust went on.
 
Are there any other drive-ability issues? (lack of power, sputter under load... etc)
Does it make any noise when it stalls out?
What are the conditions that that the stall occurs under? (hot, cold, high speed, low speed... etc)
Does the CEL come on? (any DTC's in the computer?)

All these paint a picture so you (or we) can narrow it down.

You could have a wiring issue. Like, if you hit a bump wrong and a wire finds ground.

The fact that it takes a while for it to start up after the stall is pushing me toward a secondary ignition issue. (and also probably our best clue so far) hmm.. Ill ponder

Good luck
 
:coy:Im sorry it wasnt supposed to come out like that.Just giving some ideas.Something is wrong some were. But just take the hood off and see if it helps and lets us know if it helps any.

haha its all good i just want you guys to know i really do appreciate everything, all the opinions and that im not trying to be a jerk or anything. i will give that a shot and let you know asap! thanks!

Are there any other drive-ability issues? (lack of power, sputter under load... etc)
Does it make any noise when it stalls out?
What are the conditions that that the stall occurs under? (hot, cold, high speed, low speed... etc)
Does the CEL come on? (any DTC's in the computer?)

All these paint a picture so you (or we) can narrow it down.

You could have a wiring issue. Like, if you hit a bump wrong and a wire finds ground.

The fact that it takes a while for it to start up after the stall is pushing me toward a secondary ignition issue. (and also probably our best clue so far) hmm.. Ill ponder

Good luck

no lack of power what so ever, no weird noises, when it runs it runs amazing and you'd never think it has a stalling problem. it just randomly stalls, low speed, high speed, but it seems to mostly break down in the day when its hotter out. and no CEL does not come on. so when you say secondary ignition issue what can that be?? sorry im trying to learn all this here LOL
 
I had a mazda that had the same problem. But it was the distributor that was the problem.But seeing how these are distributor-less im clue-less. Maybe its the coil-pack:idontknow: or maybe air-filter:idontknow: oooooooooooooo get a haynes and see what it says it has the problem pages in the front.




haha its all good i just want you guys to know i really do appreciate everything, all the opinions and that im not trying to be a jerk or anything. i will give that a shot and let you know asap! thanks!



no lack of power what so ever, no weird noises, when it runs it runs amazing and you'd never think it has a stalling problem. it just randomly stalls, low speed, high speed, but it seems to mostly break down in the day when its hotter out. and no CEL does not come on. so when you say secondary ignition issue what can that be?? sorry im trying to learn all this here LOL
 
In my opinion we just had a 420A come through our dealership and it would stall out when it got hot and not restart for about 20-30 minutes, we found that the crank position sensor was overheating and causing it to stall out. Try and clean the connector really well and see if that helps at all. got the customers car out of my bay anyway. Hope this helps.
 
Secondary ignition is coil pack, wires and plugs. Lets forget about wires and plugs though.

It says you replaced the coil packs? Was it with new ones or used?

You can use a multimeter to check them. I'll have to dig a bit to get you specs. The thing is, if it only happens when its really hot (or something) they might test fine right now and still be bad. You would almost have to do the test during the time when it wont restart.

The cas/cps idea is interesting too. Ive heard of the 420a cars going through those before. But don't just replace it. Like said before... throwing money at it inst wise. Diagnose then repair / replace.
 
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