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Cams seem pretty tight...

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AL92

15+ Year Contributor
933
4
Dec 12, 2003
regina, SK, Canada
I am finishing up my 2.4 I installed crower stage 3 cams and have crower valve springs .I have 3g lifters that just put in and they were bled so basically very little oil in them. When I turn the cam gears they seem to be very stiff.I am not turning them much.I have engine set at timing mark and have cam gears pretty much straight across getting ready to set timing belt tension.
My stock cams and stock springs in my old engine seem to turn pretty easily.Is this just cause I have no oil in there just break in lube,the springs are higher tension then stock and the lifters are dry?

I have the cam caps in right 100% and torqued them to around 15 pounds it says in my haynes and did it from center out. I put break in lube in came bearings and on the cam.

I am a bit paranoid and does it matter if you are at tdc on compression or exhaust stroke .How can you tell ,on my v8s you just put a finger in the hole and feel but the dsm spark well is very deep.

Someone said it don't matter if you set the cams across from each other as long as the crank mark lines up with tdc.Is this correct? I do have an experienced dsm guy coming over to set my belt for me. But was mostly curious right now.
 
There may be a few things you should check.

1: Remove rockers and try turning the cams. You need to remove the rockers so that you are not opening and closing valves while you try this. If they move freely them the problem lies with the valves, springs, pistons or cam timing somewhere. Since with the rockers removed none of this will be moving. If they still move hard then you have a problem with the cam caps being in the wrong positions, cam straightness, cam housing diameter and or alignment, or a cam thrust clearence problem. The cam caps being mispositioned is the most common problem, make sure that they are all in the correct order (and from the same head you are trying to use) They are numbered from I 1-6 and E 1-6 or in some cases R 1-6 and L 1-6 with number 1 being the cam gear end of the head. Also ensure that all of the dowel pins that align the cam caps are installed, and in good order I.E. not bent or damaged.

2: Without the timing belt installed and everything properly timed and tensioned do not move the cams much if at all if you do not have much expierence with this. You can bend valves quite easily if you do.

This procedure should help narrow down where the problem may lie.
 
Hmm .We primed engine with impact wrench and set timing.I didn't move engine much at all and had things close to the timing mark. The cams turn fine now..they are in right and cam caps are right,torque was at 15ft pounds high range for specs in haynes book.
Everything looks pretty good only thing is timing pin seems to be about a hair over the max of 3/16.its like 7/32 but 4/16 or 1/4 don't fit. So wondering if should tighten it down a bit more .I hear you can just loosen tensioner pulley bolt and put pressure on it with a big screwdriver and move it so the belt is a bit tigher and the gap is smaller.Does waiting the 15 minutes make it looser or tighter?
 
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