The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Calan Catchcan pics

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

chinola69

15+ Year Contributor
642
30
Sep 22, 2007
Yonkers, New York
Hey like the title says can I see pics of your Calan catch cans installed in your engine bay. I am looking into purchasing one but with the limited space in the 2g engine bay would like to see were most of you placed them. My 2g has every option from AC to cruise control and I am not going to remove anything, no wire tuck or battery to the trunk. I have seen alot of you drop the battery lower would consider that since doesn't really change anything. Was wondering if this is something easy to do?
 
not a 2g but i am running the 2g design can (added my own mounting bracket since its in an Evo3)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Just curious are you able to close your hood?

I had to remove the supports from the center to the hole in the hood by the intake side. It would NOT work on a stock hood. If you welded female npt bungs and used 90* npt to AN adapters it would get you the clearance you need though
 
If you welded female npt bungs and used 90* npt to AN adapters it would get you the clearance you need though

You might actually have less clearance going this route. NPT fittings usually don't thread in very far, unless you run a tap through the bung to enlarge the threads.

The best low-clearance option that I know of would be to use aluminum NPT to AN elbows, cut the NPT threads off, and weld them flush to the can. It would be similar to what I did with my VC. You can see the fittings I'm talking about in the pic below, after they were cut.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Reviving dead

Was going to pick one of these up but i have a question

I know i want the VS2 but im wondering what the difference basically is between the one with the breather filters and the one with the outlet. Is there a benefit to one or the other? Im moreso leaning towards the one with the dual breathers.

Thanks!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Running that line from the VC to the intake puts VACUUM (removes pressure) from the crankcase, by putting a CC in between allows you to catch the blow-by before it makes it to the compressor wheel of the turbo. With the VC just vented to air with the breather filters, crankcase pressure has to overcome the pressure drop across the lines and filters, and fight against atmospheric pressure and any air turbulence around the filters. There really is no substitute for "sucking" on the crankcase via the turbo inlet, as long as you have a filtered can that can remove sub-micron particles while still providing less pressure drop than what the turbo can provide to the VC.

Just because you've got a CC vented to atmosphere doesn't mean you aren't seeing positive crankcase pressure, it just means you're giving it a means to relieve it out of the can rather than blowing your dipstick out of the tube and blowing oil all over the motor.

:dsm:
 
So running the can to the intake will relieve more crankcase pressure? Noob question what's VC stand for? Also gofer your car is a big inspiration to me. So clean.,
 
Ack. Sorry, usually I try to write out the acronym at least once. VC = valve cover.

Running a sealed catch can with an outlet to the intake ensures you'll maintain vacuum on your crankcase rather than pressure. Running a VTA (vent to atmosphere) catch can, or as most recognize as a CC with filters on it, doesn't necessarily keep crankcase pressure out it just gives it a place to escape but doesn't GUARANTEE negative pressure. Craig and Paul have done research and development on the sealed CC and monitored crankcase pressure in full boost which is 30psi+ on their cars, I recommend a sealed can or your just pissing in the wind and wasting money.

Note: You may see heavy hitters running VTA catch cans running 7 second quarter-mile times, however, comparing a daily driven DSM to something like that isn't comparing apples to apples. Those guys FILL their CC in one pass down the track, not very practical for your typical car enthusiast.

Thanks for the compliments on the DSM.

EDIT
I didn't go into any detail about the install of that catch can above which is probably the easiest way to do it on a budget since there are very few AN fittings that need purchased and only one needing welded. If you'd like, I can post up the exact shopping list if you're trying to do it on a budget and not weld fittings onto your VC. :)

:dsm:
 
:ohdamn: duh VC makes perfect sense now.

I found a VC with dual -10an fittings already welded on so im going to pick up that, and it makes sense to not vent the cc. I guess all i will need is one -10an fitting to weld to my intake pipe.

So my shopping list will consist of
the VC with the two -10an fittings already there
the CC of course
3 lines
A fitting to weld to my intake pipe.

EDIT: Where should i pick up the lines and the fitting?

Correct me if im wrong but just cut a hole in my FP intkae pipe and weld a fitting to it...almost sounds too simple...

then enjoy my new sexy cc. :hellyeah:
 
it is that simple. but also consider the idea of drilling and tapping a 3/8" barb fitting into the intake so you dont need to weld it. and this way if you later move it you can simply screw a plug in
 
it is that simple. but also consider the idea of drilling and tapping a 3/8" barb fitting into the intake so you dont need to weld it. and this way if you later move it you can simply screw a plug in

:aha:

Sounds like a good idea!
 
LOL its amazing how quick people are to weld everything in. with a tapped in fitting less chance of heat distortion or a leak due to a porous weld.
 
LOL its amazing how quick people are to weld everything in. with a tapped in fitting less chance of heat distortion or a leak due to a porous weld.

I'd still weld in an AN fitting...you can always just put a cap on it if needed, and it's much stronger/cleaner than a tapped fitting. Just my .02 of course. :)

@ Zombie - I got your PM, but gofer answered everything for you.

Send an email to the address shown at the bottom of the the web page...PM's here are hit and miss lately, as I've usually got 1238012803123 things going on; but I always get email.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top