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interex

15+ Year Contributor
1,039
1
Apr 28, 2008
Centralia, Illinois
I've been contacted by someone who built a 2.3 or 2.4 Stroker. This is the list...

(7 bolt)
Custom Forged Arias .040 "Stroker" Pistons
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Eagle 4G64 Forged Crank
4G63 Block, magnafluxed, bored .040
4G63 Head, Ported, Polished, Brass Valve Guides, 1mm Valve Seats.
Intake Manifold Ported/Polished to match head.
APR Head Stud Kit
AEM High Flow Fuel Rail
Clevite Main/Rod Bearings.

Entire setup is balanced, and blueprinted/documented, and is not assembled, nor has it been. Everything is brand new.

Guy spent about $4,000 for parts and labor and is now broke and moving. I was offered this entire setup for $1,500 + Shipping. Do you guys think this is worth buying or should I continue with building up my 6 bolt setup? Let me know ASAP.
 
You talking about the miles on this one? It has never been assembled. All ready to put together and put in the car.

I just emailed the guy asking if it was a 95+ 7 bolt and he said he didnt know for sure that he was going to go get a casting off the block to find out. :/
 
I'm waiting on him to get back with me, But the question still exists, Is $1,500 a good idea to spend on this 7 bolt setup? I know people go on and on about 7 bolts and crankwalk but i highly doubt that is possible on this setup. Should I buy it or buy parts to build a 6 bolt stroker? I know the value of the parts, and machine shop labor so I'm just trying to get everyones $0.02
 
I'm waiting on him to get back with me, But the question still exists, Is $1,500 a good idea to spend on this 7 bolt setup? I know people go on and on about 7 bolts and crankwalk but i highly doubt that is possible on this setup. Should I buy it or buy parts to build a 6 bolt stroker? I know the value of the parts, and machine shop labor so I'm just trying to get everyones $0.02

Any engine can crank walk. Some are just more susseptable than others. And not to get into a 7 bolt Crankwalk debate, I'll leave it at that and hope others will aswell. I would recommend ensuring its a 95+ 7 bolt because it has the crank angle sensor which the 2G ECU needs. That way there is less fabrication/modification to be done to make the engine fit. Should be a direct drop in at that point. Also less chance of a random missfire which I read "some" 6 bolt swaps do get.

Also, you cannot balance and blueprint an engine till it has been assembled as to the best of my understanding you must balance and blue print it as a rotating assembly. With that said, if it hasn't been assembled... this ensures you do it right or have a trusted expert do it for you... and if not you have yourself to blame and not a dubious "guy" doing the work for you who you barely know. So from that aspect... an unbuilt motor would appeal to me. From face value it sounds like a good deal. Bare in mind 0.040 is from my understanding the largest size you want to go over on cylinder walls and remain safe,, but you could actually pick up slightly higher compression and a slightly increased displacement from it. Which can be pluss's aswell.... its all trade offs... which is my point.
 
just my .02, if you can buy it already put together and save an ass load on time parts and labor where can you go wrong. with all the upgrades I would think crank walk would be slim to none. his loss is your gain i say go for it.
 
just my .02, if you can buy it already put together and save an ass load on time parts and labor where can you go wrong. with all the upgrades I would think crank walk would be slim to none. You do lose the fun( cussing and throwing stuff) or the experience of putting your engine together yourself. But hey if you feel confident that he did everything right and is honest i say go for it.

The engine is not assembled. Everything was assembled at the machine shop for balancing but then they disassembled everything except for the Piston/Rods. I think I'm going to buy it. I have to get rid of my 1G 6bolt now. I cant afford both. I mean its still assembled (rebuilt stock) with all the stuff (turbo/intake/tb) just a couple dents on the oil pan and a broken temp sensor.

I'll list it up on craigslist with my 95 Pistons. Maybe that will help me come up with some money uber quick... but i doubt it LOL.
 
Jesus, UPS told them it would cost $340 to ship to the local UPS pickup where I live.

Damn, This assembly is all seperate except for the pistons/rods... that is too much...
 
They got to be trying to screw you on that. Shipping is not that much. Does it include a block? I got my block alone shipped from Hawaii to where I live in Iowa for $189.00.
 
2.4 Stroker. This is the list...

(7 bolt)
Custom Forged Arias .040 "Stroker" Pistons
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Eagle 4G64 Forged Crank
4G63 Block, magnafluxed, bored .040
4G63 Head, Ported, Polished, Brass Valve Guides, 1mm Valve Seats.
Intake Manifold Ported/Polished to match head.
APR Head Stud Kit
AEM High Flow Fuel Rail
Clevite Main/Rod Bearings.

Entire setup is balanced, and blueprinted/documented, and is not assembled, nor has it been. Everything is brand new.

This is EVERYTHING that is included. I decided to buy the setup from them. I just need to figure out how to go about shipping this.
 
I guess I just need to find out how much the entire setup weighs. I want to find the CHEAPEST shipping company from there to here. They are in Texas, I'm in Illinois. We have like several different shipping companies here such as Con-Way, UPS, DHL, Greyhound, FedEx but I'm not sure what all they have down there yet. still waiting to find out things then tomorrow i'll call and get quotes for roughly 230 lbs
 
Alright!!! I got ahold of a freight company who said they could get it from Texas to me for $101 @ 300lb or less. I hope the Block, Crank, Head, Intake, Piston, Rods, Stud Kit, dont weigh more than 300lbs.
 
Yea, I'm very unsure of the weight. I do know that I just could not pass up this stuff for $1,500 :) All the parts along cost more than that, then with the balancing and documenting of the engine. I just think its better to go this route than go with the 6 bolt build I was going to do.
 
Well, I bought all the stuff that was listed in the ad and turned out to not be most of what was listed.

The pistons were NOT stroker, the crank was a balanced 2.0L crank not an Eagle 100mm crank like she said it was. the head was only 1/2 ported and the valve seats were all buggered up and the fuel rail was a knock off, not AEM. I got pretty screwed on the deal really. The person I bought the stuff form is a member here, and I wont tell her name but just be cautious of what you buy online.

All in all she and I worked out a deal, She would give me 1/2 my money back for the pistons and crank so I could atleast have some money out of the deal to get the stuff I needed to build my stroker.

I now have a reman mitsu (98-99) 2.4L crank, wiseco stroker pistons, eagle h-beam rods, JMFab SMIM, MSD DIS-2, MegaSquirt-I v3, configured for my 4g63 by Paul at Symtech Labs, and still waiting to hear about getting my head taken care of from the performance shop in St Louis MO.
 
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