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Butcher knife edge vs Eagle forged?

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I believe that the Magnus cranks are made by Australian manufacture called PAR engineering makers of PAR gearsets..very high end stuff.

Par-Engineering - Crankshafts

Are they in america as well? There is a par racing about 30-40 minutes from me. It's where I was planning on balancing my rotating assembly
 
PAR has its actual manufacturing operations in malasyia though they are an Australian company.

They are not associated with any business in the USA. Magnus does work with them for jobs, but Magnus is also in Canada.
 
How can any one question Magnus Motorsports parts????

They literally built the highest HP 4G63 engine and fastest DSM.


Yes their pistons are manufactured by Ross, but with Magnus engineering and design input. Yes their rods are made by R&R, to their designed specs. As far as their cranks.... I thought they were manufactured by K1....... But it seems like I might be wrong.


Either way they have proven themselves as an amazing shop.
 
How can any one question Magnus Motorsports parts????

They literally built the highest HP 4G63 engine and fastest DSM.


Yes their pistons are manufactured by Ross, but with Magnus engineering and design input. Yes their rods are made by R&R, to their designed specs. As far as their cranks.... I thought they were manufactured by K1....... But it seems like I might be wrong.


Either way they have proven themselves as an amazing shop.

^^^^ this… :thumb:

As much r&d they put into the stuff they sell I would never doubt their products. Everything I have got from them has been top notch including customer service.
 
Marco is somewhere in a foreign land, drink in hand and laughing at this thread.. if he cared what anyone thought.

You are correct I don't care. :) Don't care to argue it on the internet that is. I usually just do the research, build it then when we have good results, a few years later it is put for sale. The crank pictured on my website is our race crank which was specifically balanced with our Race rotating assembly. Seems when our website crashed it mixed up the pics the actual crank we normally sell to the mere mortals is pictured here

Magnus Billet Stroker Kit | Magnus Motorsports

It is 4340 and slightly heavier than stock in order to accommodate our pistons and rods which are slightly heavier than stock. We have done extensive vibration and harmonics analysis on our engines with Litens Automotive Group to determine what the precise counterweight shape and weight should be. It's over 10 years of research little by little that you are purchasing.

Our rods are made by 3 different manufacturers depending on what the motor is that we are building. we have charts to select the appropriate weight to the appropriate piston, we have over 100 different piston numbers all are made by ROSS. Our rods, may be either made by R&R whom we have a 15 years relationship, Pauter whom we have a 15 year relationship, or our very own rods made in house. Sorry guys, love to chat but I gotta get back to work.

One last thing, about Eagle cranks, do yourself a favor and Buy something else :)
 
You are correct I don't care. :) Don't care to argue it on the internet that is. I usually just do the research, build it then when we have good results, a few years later it is put for sale. The crank pictured on my website is our race crank which was specifically balanced with our Race rotating assembly. Seems when our website crashed it mixed up the pics the actual crank we normally sell to the mere mortals is pictured here

Magnus Billet Stroker Kit | Magnus Motorsports

It is 4340 and slightly heavier than stock in order to accommodate our pistons and rods which are slightly heavier than stock. We have done extensive vibration and harmonics analysis on our engines with Litens Automotive Group to determine what the precise counterweight shape and weight should be. It's over 10 years of research little by little that you are purchasing.

Our rods are made by 3 different manufacturers depending on what the motor is that we are building. we have charts to select the appropriate weight to the appropriate piston, we have over 100 different piston numbers all are made by ROSS. Our rods, may be either made by R&R whom we have a 15 years relationship, Pauter whom we have a 15 year relationship, or our very own rods made in house. Sorry guys, love to chat but I gotta get back to work.

One last thing, about Eagle cranks, do yourself a favor and Buy something else :)

Very interesting, you may have won yourself a customer with that speech:D. Lol you should honestly visit the forums more often dude. I'd be interested to hear what you have to say about somethings. :thumbup:
 
Marco, out of curiosity and if you're willing to share, is Andrew Brilliant's engine running a "mere mortal" crank or one of the race cranks?
Andrew's last crank was an OEM Mitsubishi 4g64 crank with undersized bearings. That one is in the process of being replaced for the upcoming season though. The crank wasn't a failure, just the bolts that were too long for the application were installed by the mechanic and damaged the clutch, flywheel and crank.
 
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Andrew's last crank was an OEM Mitsubishi 4g64 crank with undersized bearings. That one is in the process of being replaced for the upcoming season though. The crank wasn't a failure, just the bolts that were too long for the application were installed by the mechanic and damaged the clutch, flywheel and crank.

Which bolts are you referring to? Thats pretty crazy
 
Andrew's last crank was an OEM Mitsubishi 4g64 crank with undersized bearings. That one is in the process of being replaced for the upcoming season though. The crank wasn't a failure, just the bolts that were too long for the application were installed by the mechanic and damaged the clutch, flywheel and crank.

Thanks Tim.

Which bolts are you referring to? Thats pretty crazy

Flywheel bolts were the culprit I believe.
 
Which bolts are you referring to? Thats pretty crazy

He was running a Quarter Master race flywheel that has a thinner 6mm flange in comparison to the street twin flywheel I offer that is 10mm. The stock flywheels and other single disk flywheels are normally around 10mm.

The problem is that he should have been using 19.5mm bolts and 22.5mm bolts were used instead. Problem is that the bolts bottomed out in the crank flange, then were overtorqued by the mechanic to "close the gap" using an impact, until the bolts "tightened up". Problem is that the flywheel bolts cut new threads in the crank flange until it bottomed out. Result was less than a couple miles before the flywheel bolts sheared 5 of 6 bolts and flopped the flywheel and clutch assembly all over the place damaging the crank flange along with wrecking the flywheel flange and damaging the gear drive clutch disks.

Lesson to be learned?

Use a digital caliper with a depth gauge and measure the actual thread depth in your crank flange (NOT the depth of where the holes bottom out at), along with measuring the flywheel flange thickness, then determine the flywheel bolt that works for your application.

For example, here are a few OEM Mitsubishi flywheel/flexplate bolt lengths for reference:

11.7mm long Flywheel Bolts MD752272
15.2mm long Flywheel Bolts MD334117
15.5mm long Flywheel Bolts MD368638
17.0mm long Flywheel Bolts MD952233
19.5mm long Flywheel Bolts 1120A062
21.2mm long Flywheel Bolts MD302074
22.5mm long Flywheel Bolts 2795A956


There is a reason why Shep and others use an automatic flexplate spacer plate with their QM race flywheels when installing them; it is because they are using stock-length bolts instead of a shorter fastener to accomodate for the thinner flywheel flange.

Use the right bolts; don't Jerry-rig something.

It would have saved us alot of money in August when I flew over to California to help with his race car only to arrive and deal with problems stemming from someone using too long of flywheel bolts and not telling anyone of the problem until it failed.

Either way, it is a learning lesson. The information listed above is stuff that everyone should know when installing any clutch/flywheel assembly. ALWAYS use the right part for the job.
 
Yeah that's a pretty expensive lesson. Not really sure how one would do that especially on such an expensive car. Using washers would have been a better choice than ramming the hell outa it with an air gun. But yeah especially on a car like that you should know the owner would want the correct part instead of makeshift bs.

Nonetheless hope you get all fixed soon. :thumbup: will you be using another stock crank?
 
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