burnout question

[bmwisthekey]

hey a question for the fwd's here-

I noticed last time out to the track i just couldnt quite heat my slicks up enough in the burnout box, i usually pull my ebrake all the way up then start my burnout, worked fine before. When i watch the videos i can see my rear wheels locked up and skidding and i smoke the fronts pretty good.

This time out my ebrake had a hard time holding the car still, car kept lurching forward and my burnout sucked. You could clearly see in the video of my runs the rear tires were rolling and not locked up.

The only thing i noticed is my rear brake pads are pretty thin ( and since the ebrake operates the rear calipers onto the rotor) my only guess is to put some new pads in the rear and the ebrake will do a better job of holding the car still.

It would seem that if your pads are thin= the more u have to engage the ebrake to get it to hold ( piston in the caliper has to travel farther to get the pads to make contact with the rotor)so if the pads were new, nice and thick it would make them function properly, lemme know what u guys think.

 

[biglady112]

WRONG. Your parking brake is actually setup to work as a drum style brake on the inside(backside) of the rotor [Well, inside the rotor, not on the "back"]. Your cable is either stretched or needs readjusted now that you have been putting excess stress on the parking brake. Either use a two step if you have one, or dump the clutch at a high rpm to get the tires to spin. That should be all you need. Unless you have really nice expensive slicks, getting them to smoke decently is all you really need.

 

[bmwisthekey]

getting them to smoke decent is what i need at the moment, they arent sticky enough so im not cutting as good of times outta the hole. i know how to get them to spin its just i cant sit there long enough without the car moving quite a bit, (i.e. i have a 2-step, ive done burnouts both ways.) spinning the tires isnt the problem its staying still while spinning them.

no im pretty sure that im right about the parking brake operates the rear calipers squeezing the brake pads onto the rotors,
not a parking brake shoe inside the rotor ( like drums brakes).

http://www.machv.com/1gpabrca.html


from tceperformanceproducts.com ( big brake specialists for dsms)
said on their site:
"Rear Kits: TCE offers a number of rear kits designed to compliment our front kits.

1G Models- We have produced a number of custom kits for the 1G from standard two piece rotor replacements to four piston kits with vented rotors. Any replacement of the stock caliper howeve will remove the parking brake.*Due to the differences in AWD and 2WD parts as well as the kits listed these are built by special order only and ample time should be allowed for installation."

 

[coltboostin]

I did my burnouts in 2nd gear.

Try it.

 

[bmwisthekey]

yea i did some 2nd gear burnouts too, they worked, im just trying to find out that if i replace the rear brake pads , since they are getting pretty thin, will the ebrake do a better job holding the car still.

 

[biglady112]

I am telling you that is not how your parking brake is set up. Mach V is wrong as well. I just removed the brakes recently off a 1G AWD for a part out, drum style, 2G awd, drum style and TWO 89 turbo mirages, both drum style. Last I checked all the mitsubishi's I have worked on the rear parking brakes have been a drum style setup.

Go adjust you cable.

Steven

 

[steve]

Sorry, the parking brake on 1G rear calipers work by extending the piston via a set of mechanical links and squeezing the rotor just like they would when the piston is actuated by the fluid.

They do not use the drum in disk like 2G or 3000GTs.

 

[red1991tsi]

WRONG. Your parking brake is actually setup to work as a drum style brake on the inside(backside) of the rotor [Well, inside the rotor, not on the "back"]. Your cable is either stretched or needs readjusted now that you have been putting excess stress on the parking brake. Either use a two step if you have one, or dump the clutch at a high rpm to get the tires to spin. That should be all you need. Unless you have really nice expensive slicks, getting them to smoke decently is all you really need.

WRONG! It's the 2g's that have that style e-brake set-up. All 1g's have rear caliper brakes which work on a mechanically operated lever which applies pressure through a wormer screw attached to the actuator level.

If he's having problems with the e-brake, it's most likely his e-brake is beginning to sieze. If the rubber seal under the level begins to deteriorate and lets water intrude, then the wormer screw will seize when the bearings and race rust.

 

[biglady112]

I do stand corrected gentlemen. I looked for myself today on someones car and you guys are correct on the 1G's. However, the CSM's and 2G's do indeed use the drum style brake.

To the original poster, I would start by doing a once over on the rear assemblies and then proceed with adjusting the cable. That will help more than you know.

Steven

 

[red1991tsi]

It's almost impossible to rework the rear assemblies. It requires special tools and even if you do get it apart, you can't find the race and needle bearings to replace them. On the rear brake calipers it's better to just buy remanufactured ones with a lifetime warranty.

Don't ask how I know. I was able to actually get everything apart but I couldn't find the replacement parts I needed. I ended up just having to buy remanned.

And for what it's worth, don't let my low post count fool you. I just don't visit often.

 

[steve]

Your correct. The killer is finding the needle bearing race if the seal on the parking brake actuator leaks and water gets in and rusts it.

What special tool did you need? Other than getting a set of snap ring pliers that fit I didn't need anything special.

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[red1991tsi]

Snap ring pliers are what I needed. Unfortunately for me mine weren't quite long enough and it took forever to get the ring out. Did you actually have any luck finding the race, bearings and new seal for the lever? I never did. I finally just ponied up for a remanned set. Besides, the inside where the bearing were was all pitted. FUBAR'd if you asked me. Now mine work fine, e-brake and all.

Here's what mine looked like after I was done:

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[steve]

The seal is part of the factory rebuild kit. (upper left)

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I couldn't find any markings on the race or see a way to get it out without trashing it so I cleaned it up with 320-1000 grit sandpaper finshed up with polishing. Packed with waterproof brake grease it does the job and isn't going to rust again.

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[red1991tsi]

On mine the entire needle bearing assembly was toast. There was no way it was getting cleaned up. My bearings were so rusted and flat spotted, they were done. I can't tell from that picture if any of those are a race and bearing assembly. That was the part I REALLY needed. Again, in my case it was far easier to just buy re-mans with a lifetime warranty.

Where did you find the rebuild kit? I didn't find any for the rears at the usual local parts places. I never checked with NAPA.