Street tire burnout or no?

[eclipsed95]

What's up guys? I've read a few conflicting articles about whether or not to heat up street tires. As a fwd guy, any little help on traction off the line will help. I'm going to Mason Dixon this Saturday, it'll be my third time at the track. I ran my 17" (205/45 tires) wheels the first time and my spare 16's (215/55 tires) the second time, with about 25psi in the tires, with about the same launching results. I've always done a burnout.

Any knowledge of to burnout or not would be helpful. If nothing else, I'll drive around the waterbox and try it myself on Saturday. Also, I read to stay out of the groove on street tires, fact or fiction?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Dallas J]

Just a quick spin to clean them off is all you need. Smokey burnouts one street tires does nothing but kill your tires.

In my old neon I was pulling 2.1 60s on 185 all seasons like this.

-Dallas J

 

[eclipsed95]

Just a quick spin to clean them off is all you need. Smokey burnouts one street tires does nothing but kill your tires.

In my old neon I was pulling 2.1 60s on 185 all seasons like this.

-Dallas J

Going around the box, then spinning a little?

 

[ludevtec93]

yes, go around the water box and just spin the tires for a quick sec. to clean off the debris and stuff

 

[Black94DSM]

Yep Dallas J is correct. Taken from a local board. From a guy that works at making us131 better. A west Michigan track.

Drag Racing 101: Destroying the Myth: Tires, Water Box, VHT. There are three main tires used on the track; street, drag radials, and slicks. Street tires are not designed for burnouts because it superheats them thereby providing poor traction. Skip Barber racing school consistently has students darting back and forth on the track upon getting into the Neon's, Viper's, or Ram's in an attempt to heat up the tires, only to be told to stop by the instructors because these vehicles run on street tires. The recommendation for a street tire is to go AROUND the water box and accelerate hard to the starting line to remove any debris off the tires. Street tires also remove the traction compound, VHT, unlike slicks and a few drag radials that put down rubber. The inherit conflict/problems is people do not remove the debris off their tires by accelerating hard to the starting line and then rip up the VHT creating poor track conditions. On the opposite side of the spectrum are slicks which are designed to be heated them up. Do to the amazing traction these tires support, water is usually required to get them to spin without doing damage to the drive train. Like previously noted, slicks leave compound unlike street tires who remove it, hence why conditions can improve over a professional racing period (assuming the track temperature doesn't increase).

 

[eclipsed95]

Good info guys, I really appreciate it. I'm gonna give it a shot, I'll post and let you know how it turns out.

 

[badas93tsi]

put it at 7k and drop it. see you friday bastard

 

[tstkl]

seriously though, what should us awd guys do? skip it all? I cant and havent seen many awd guys burnout.

 

[eclipsed95]

put it at 7k and drop it. see you friday bastard

I was thinking that, will you pick up my axles for me?

 

[T9S1i]

for my awd, i usually do a quick burnout not to heat the tires, but to heat the clutch/preload the drivetrain. If i drive straight up to the tree and hold my studderbox my clutch drags a little and my car will creep forward and ill redlight. If i do a quick launch (tires usually spin coz of the water) and then accelerate to the line i can sit all day with the studderbox on and i wont creep forward. The quick launch brunout is more of like a slip/dump the clutch and then right when the wheels spin i push the clutch back in (like 1 -2 sec burnout).....Anyone else have to do this? It seems to fix my dragging problem every time.

 

[GVR4592]

If your car moves forward when the clutch is depressed, then you have a problem somewhere. The car should not move forward at all.

 

[T9S1i]

it doesnt happen every time, but if it does than it ruins my run (redlight) so i preload before every run. I have a lot of play in my clutch pedal assembly and am looking into getting it fixed... I know its kind of a dumb fix for a bigger problem but it works for me. Like i said...i already know that the clutch is dragging slightly and im lookin into gettin it fixed. I wish i had a welder so i could fix the pedal assembly myself, but im going to have to fork out the cash and have a dsm shop do it for me...

 

[skinnykenny84]

for my awd, i usually do a quick burnout not to heat the tires, but to heat the clutch/preload the drivetrain. If i drive straight up to the tree and hold my studderbox my clutch drags a little and my car will creep forward and ill redlight. If i do a quick launch (tires usually spin coz of the water) and then accelerate to the line i can sit all day with the studderbox on and i wont creep forward. The quick launch brunout is more of like a slip/dump the clutch and then right when the wheels spin i push the clutch back in (like 1 -2 sec burnout).....Anyone else have to do this? It seems to fix my dragging problem every time.

no biggie, you just need to adjust the clutch. if your out of room for adjustment you may need to buy an extension. try that first.

 

[T9S1i]

i think it does need to be adjusted a little... i do also have the extension rod in there....
Then again, i havent been to the track since last year before i broke my 1st gear shift fork, so after the trans rebuild i might be all good, the only way to find out is at the track (next wed baby!!!)... also i have a problem with my 1-2 shift, its not happening at about anything above 6000wot.. everything else is like butter.


God i hate clutch pedal play. Push the clutch in, let it out, lift pedal about 1-2 inches with my toe...

 

[eclipsed95]

Just a quick update from the day at the track. The launches were alot better, minus one first through third gear tire killer that I had. The crappy thing was that I somehow got my mbc hoses switched up and didn't figure it out until I already ran a bunch of times. The end result was like 12psi all day and a best time of 15.5 @ 95mph Anyway, I still had a good time and met a few dsmers, too bad I looked like I had the slowest Eclipse on earth.

 

[GVR4592]

The extended rod is a band-aid fix for a worn out pedal assembly or pivot ball. Fix it the right way or it's just going to get worse.

 

[T9S1i]

yeah im looking for someone who will do it and saving money at the same time... seems like nobody wants to do it though... And im not driving all the way to RRE from san francsico to have them do it. How much do you think is reasonable for me to pay to get this done...?? I know that it needs to get done sooner than later (especially if i want to be able to shift my car down the dragstrip...)

danny

 

[T9S1i]

well...i looked under my pedal assembly today and i was going to try to adjust the master cyl rod out a little more to see if that helped, but i saw a little fluid on the inside there so its coming out this weekend and getting rebuilt... we'll see what happens from there..

danny