Built my own trans from a 100% teardown and parts replace

[turboglenn]

So far i'm not done, but this is a copy and paste from a peronal journal i'm keeping on the build for my own records.. it took 3 donor trannies to get enough good parts to not even need a single synchro (i think one donor had new synchros and hub shoes put in it over the last few years as they were allin twice as good of shape as the 98 i bought and had almost twice the gap between synchro and gear compared to even my good shifting units' measurements

I'll toss some pics up tomorrow when i get out and get the bearing splitter i need to press of the bearings that require a tool to fit in a very tight space to be removed (mainly input bottom by clutch end) and the intermediate top ones that arepressed againstthe gears that are built into the shafts they are on.

Here's my journal

Trans build

Tear down and strip and inspect leftovers from 2 trannies with damaged gears and one with smoked synchros

Ended up making 1 good CD from the 3 and one welded CD (rest parts junk) (98 had trashed spiders and brass ring) My old 95 had smoked oil ring (welded up solid) but rest was pefect, (caught just in time i believe from lack of damage from this) swapped the 98 upper CD cover and side gear into my 95 housing with good brass oil ring and good spiders, endplay is at the factory spec

Used the 1st and second gears, synchros and hub/slider from the 95 donor that had light damage but chipped 3rd input on intermediate, put these on the 987 intermediateshaft

Used complete input shaft for it's gears, synchros, hub/slider & shoes only from the 95 grenaded trans in my car, pressed onto the 95 donor input shaft and isntalled in the 98 cases

Used shift forks from 95 donor (looked brand new)

Used 98's shift rails, used my old 95 blown trans for it''s fith/reverse gear/hub/slider and fork

All VC's were good, have a spare now

All output shafts were good except on 95 donor, so I can run either the 98 with 57 tooth ring gear and it's t-case or the 95 with 58tooth ring and it's t-case, I believe I"m gonna run the 57 tooth diff gear and 98 t-case becayse the only case damage i took in this was from a piece of third (a gear tooth) got wedged between the front diff ring gear and bell housing and knocked chunk out of bell housing (I figure the 57 being smaller although slightly, will leave a LITTLE more room between it's self and the case should i have an issue in the future, thus hopefully preventing anything that gets down there from being forced through the cases)

The only things i have left to do (once i get bearing splitter tomorrow ) is to push the bearings off the bottom of the input shaft and top of the intermediate shaft and replace all with new pieces and then re-shim the cases (gotmy specs i'm gonna use, just need solderand then to order shims)

Overall i'm very pleased.. I"ve rebuilt and repaired many trannies in the past but this was the first time i split the clusters and installed new parts, Tim mademe confident in what i was doing and dispelled some myths i was basing my fears off of, and i can say that I am 100% confident that aside from being a completely 100%stock rebuild with it's inherrant weak 3/4 hub and gear sets, that my tranny build will be up to my standards for shifting and general oem driving quality (assuming shimming goes good)

I"M also getting a clutch disk in the morning to make the input shaft "holder tool" from so i can torque the end nuts to spec without the penny trick and then i can re-install the end-case and install the transinto the car

NOw the shims i will need along with the other parts i'm replacing (if none of the shims from the 3 donor trannies will suffice) Will all take a few days to get here delaying much progress from this point on for a few days, but i'd rather know that every seal and bearing in the trans is fresh with a long life ahead of it, than to look at the driveway when i leave the day after getting it in only to notice she's puking gear oil on the driveway from an overlooked piece of 7 dollar rubber...

I've been able to keep costs really low on this and i HAD To, no other choice, but since i did stay in budget i can pay my speeding ticket (88 in a 45 - just built boost in third and let off, my speedo hadn't passed 80 yet) Btu i may also be able to update my ACT2600 PP with a new/used unit and hopefully get a new disk for it that will take some abuse comparedto the organic RPS full face that's in there now (As soon as it's hot from me slipping off the line i know i might as well let out becayuse it will smoke through the next 2 gears and slip like mad )

I'd like a SB unit but i know i don't have 200+ for a disk alone (would have if the trans didn't blow, but i would have had no reason to pull the trans to put it in, everything's a catch 22 )

P.S. I have built several trannies buy just fixing holes in cases and replacing entire clusters and other assmebld parts with units from other trannies, this one was taken down to every little part except pullin the front diff apart, Tim Zimmer is the MAN!!!!!!!! If it weren't for him i wouldn't have taken this on, but he gave me confidence in doing it on my own which I doubt any othertrans builder would do knowing it's less moeny they can garauntee in their pocket, but i'll spend everybit i saved on his labor on moreparts

here's a list of my parts list so far and estuimated prices based on variouse websites with OEM mitsu parts listed and priced

this is not counting trans cores, fluids and RTV for cases (and other incidentals like the bearing splitter i have to rent/buy to complete it)


both CV oil seals (driver shaft seal, passenger CV)
16.00
output shaft oil seal (output shaft to t-case seal)
~ 7.00
input shaft seal (one that goes in from inside) 8.00

new rol pins for 1/2, 3/4, and 5/R forks (Jakc's for 1.00 each = 3.00

new shims inside center diff (need the brass one and the other side silver one) Aprox guess of 8-12 bucks

new Viscouse coupler snap rings x 2 ~2.00

new shaft snap rings (however many i need) ~4.00

all 4 shaft bearings ~100.00

both shift forks (1/2 and 3/4) @ 25.00ea ~ 50.00

New TOB 28.00

Total by my guestimates is 230 dollars for everything + shipping

IF this goes well and shifts nice based on what i've been learning i think i might take on my buddies GST build that has horrible synchros and is stuck in 1st gear.. He got so fed up with the car that he parked it and replaced it wiht another cheap car because h couldn't afford to get a trans and risk that money on a 275k mile car.. I"ll do the labor for him free if he buys parts and we'll see how that one goes.. And why it'scheaper for him to replace instead of repair is that the trans had something happen to it like 3 times in 2 years where we had to tear it out open and inspect/cleanand re-assemble with only a new clutch each timet to get itgoing nad it would last but not long, now hopefully with the hours of reading FSM's on these trannies i cn troublehsoot his for real and get him back in the DSM game

 

[brian9397gsx]

Good to hear glenn. I rebuilt my trans a year ago it really wasnt that hard not like i was thinking anyways. Good luck you will do fine.

 

[donniekak]

My last Dsm had the trans out of it every other month, with daily beating from a modest 20g e85 setup. This go around, I'm giving the auto a chance. I'm hoping the lack of breakage makes up for the sluggish feel of the car.

 

[92mitsubishi]

I need to rebuild my tranny but can't afford to pay a shop and im to scared to get into it myself but im going to risk it anyway any tips?

 

[Tiki2777]

Dude...you're a beast what can we say?
I have to see this insane tranny mixing...pics?

 

[rr06rs]

I rebuilt my 1g tranny twice. Here's what I've taken from my experience. If u can install pistons, rods and rings in a freshly machined shortblock.....you can rebuild a tranny. Just take your time, make sure u have all the tools u need in advance, and triple check your clearancing. You'll be fine.

 

[turboglenn]

Good to hear glenn. I rebuilt my trans a year ago it really wasnt that hard not like i was thinking anyways. Good luck you will do fine.

Thanks, and it was the same for me, some reason i thought splitting the clusters was gonne be insanely hard, just because i'd never done it and thought that the gears needed to all be pressed on to an accuracy of +/- .00001" like some of the honda and T56 stuff i've read about.

My last Dsm had the trans out of it every other month, with daily beating from a modest 20g e85 setup. This go around, I'm giving the auto a chance. I'm hoping the lack of breakage makes up for the sluggish feel of the car.

Yea, I've come across a ton of your posts in my research for this project and i'v come to realize you know a lot about what it takesto both make a DSM fast, and how to drive the living sh1t out of your car for all it's worth (that's all good things)

I need to rebuild my tranny but can't afford to pay a shop and im to scared to get into it myself but im going to risk it anyway any tips?

Just download the manual on doing it, search the forums and read everyoes tips (mainly the ones by twicks69) about clearnacing and stuff like that...there's a good thread on here called "shimming experts needed" it's a few pages back in the drivetrain sub-forum, there's great shimming info in there and i believe that's gonne be the slowest, mosttime consuming part of the entire process...theres is easy, just get a gear splitter and a press and you're set to go if you have a good array of hand tools including snap ring pliers and a narrow punch.

Dude...you're a beast what can we say?
I have to see this insane tranny mixing...pics?

didn't take the time for pics, but i plan to snap a few today.. i'll post them up later when i take them

I rebuilt my 1g tranny twice. Here's what I've taken from my experience. If u can install pistons, rods and rings in a freshly machined shortblock.....you can rebuild a tranny. Just take your time, make sure u have all the tools u need in advance, and triple check your clearancing. You'll be fine.

I agree, i' not sure why i thought there was a big mystery or that laboratory grade measuring was needed on the clusters, and although I can rebuid the tranny i do wish i had the money to send it out to Tim for an upgrade in the rebuild process for stronger third and fourth gears and hub..(not to mention the other tricks the trans guys have on making them shift good and last through a beating) PLus i'd pay if i could just to not have to smell gear oil

 

[Tiki2777]

PLus i'd pay if i could just to not have to smell gear oil

Dude I still smell the TCase gear oil in my Dad's truck....Nausea

 

[turboglenn]

yea, it sucks, but one last issue before i can feel at ease.. i need a center diff housing cheap and fast

anyone have a center diff housing that's good they will sell me cheap???? need to be the one with the single groove through the outter gear and the outter gear is what i am replacing so all teeth must be good too

 

[donniekak]

yea, it sucks, but one last issue before i can feel at ease.. i need a center diff housing cheap and fast

anyone have a center diff housing that's good they will sell me cheap???? need to be the one with the single groove through the outter gear and the outter gear is what i am replacing so all teeth must be good too

Do you need just the housing, or the end cap that usually gets welded to the gear?

 

[turboglenn]

Really i only need the housing, aside from the 4 bearings and seals i'm waiting on to come that';s all that's holding me up on this trans build.. the only one i have left that's goodhas weird machined recessess behind the spider gears and i can't shim it with the usuall shims, it came in the 98 trans i bought use but something tells me this isn't an eclipse center diff because of this... werd thing is it has all the right tooth count and toot angle on the outside and the splines are right for the shaft and VC

but yea, need one as fast as i can get it.. Got some PM's outbut havne't heard back from anyone that's close to me yet

damn thought i figured it out but i was wrong, still cant figure where thius CD is from

edit: here's my shoppiong list that i hope to have ASAP, evn if i pay a ton in extra shipping costs it's getting to wher ei won't have a car to borrow much longer so i'm tryin to get everything at once to avoid having to put the trans back together with old bearings, old snap rings and with a diff i'm unsure of.. id' rather weld the CD and run in RWD mode before i ran in AWD on a weak 2 spider, but i will not drive in AWD on the streets here with a welded CD,just can't take the chance of blreaking again

Anyway.. i've got tons of trans parts for sale that i need gone (see classifids)
Viscous Coupler, Bellhousing, internal parts - DSM Classifieds

and i'll drop the price on my BB 50 trim if some one will make me a decent offer or 400+ shipping..it's low miles, rebuildable dual BB, and spools like a B16g but with 50trim output (and a little more output fromthe BB incrasing the efficiency and reducing any chance of thrust failure since there's none to fail, i'd liketo make enough from it to pay for a 4 spider and possibly a used/new clutch so i don't have to pull this down again for a while

cv output left front 7.00

cv output right 8.00

behind bell housing input 8.50

t-case output and t-case coupler 5.50 ea x 2

t-case out to d-shaft 7.50

fork roll pins 1.00 ea x 3

TOB 28-33.00

1/2 fork 33.00

bearing top itnermed 21.50

bearing bottom inter 26.50

3/4 fork late (3 hole) 26.50

input bearing bottom 23.00

input bearing top 33.00

shims for insideCD brass and steel ~ 12.00???

input and interm. shaft snap rings 1.00 ea?? x 2

viscous snap rings 1.00 each? x 2

212.00 according to jacks trans... need ASAP will pay for USPS priority mail!!!!!!!!!!

Also need center diff housing (used Jacks =75.00) based on what some one told me and linked me to
also got a link that he'll pay 25 dollars per spider gear, and i've got a ton of other trans parts now too that hopefully i can get credit for through Tim Z but if not i can selel them here or try jacks to see if he'll buy em

212.50
+75.00
________
287.50 Total not counting shipping

edit: and here's what happens when you own a DSM in an uppermiddle class part of omaha (happened today at about 10 minutes till 2pm)
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/440225-neighbors-called-cops.html#post153022630

 

[turboglenn]

WEll, small update, I lenghtened my press so i could do the gear clusters myseld and they wernt well, just waiting on fed-ex tobring my bearings and shift forks and good center diff.

I'mwelding up the spare center diff in the mean time and have taken the time to clean, sand blast and paint the cases with "wheel silver" and added a coupe coast of eurathane clear

I've also ultra cleaned and detailed eveything i could in the trans while taking them apart and today bought gear oil and also got napa to reduse the price of a 130 dollar gear splitter down to the price of the one they told methey had on sunday and never dame through with because they couldn't find it (so now i have one bigger than what was the "mnmum" i could get by with according to Tim (the otc1123) now i have the otc 1130 for the price of the 1123

 

[turboglenn]

OK, finally!!!!!!!! I've finished the trans, shimming took the longes as i was getting large and erratic readings last night, so about 4:30 this morning i put solder in there again, torqued itshut and slept till about 10:30, wokeup and checked and had decent numbers

I set the preloads about where Tim lists them ijn the bottom endof the "less than 600 torque" and just a thousandth or so above the highest reading in the "under 400 torque"setting

The readings i got were

input shaft = averaging .049" shimmed to .054-.055

intermediate shaft was .040-.041 and i shimmed to .048-.049

center diff was at .053 and i shimmed itto .060

Some of the shims i had fit just right but i had to make two of them also from either other shims cut and re0-shaped tio smaller diameters or by sanding them down a thousandth or so on a lapping plate

The tool i made for holding the input shaft REALLY helped when it cameto torqueing the end nuts to 105 lb/ft.

The one thing i'm sorta concerned with is that the input shaft, although able o be turned in neutral by hand nee3ds the tool when in gear. IT also shifts all gears by hand but sometimes you need to spin the iunput shaft to get it to go into 3rd from fourth or 2nd from 1st (but i figure this is probably normal as long as it shifts in general)

IT's got all new shims and bearings in it and out of 3 trannies i chose the gears and synchros with the lease wear on them (but used them only in the pairs they came in instead of mixing synchros and gears with each other)

I would say probably the two most PITA parts were putting the intermediate shaft snap ring on and putting the viscous coupler snap ring on.. i mean i had to FIGHT with those two

I wasn't able to get the trans as clean as the major trans guys do so what i did was soak them in de-greaser, take e to the car wash and then gave them a short sand blasting (all i had was ultra find silicate) then i painted the cases "wheel silver" and cleared them with some 2 part eurathane clear i have for car and bike stuff.. looks rather good (or did until i got grease and black silicone all over it, but it wil clean back up)

I also put all new seals in the T-case as well so there shouldn't be any driveline leaks at all!!!!!!!!

 

[Tiki2777]

When will this be all in the car? You getting us all giddy!

 

[turboglenn]

IT's in the car now, just hgave to put the cross member, down pipe, t-case, and intercooler piping back on and hook up a few things like the wideband, vacume lines and such..probably another 45 minutes work, i came in ti check cpacity on t-case and got lazy just now

 

[donniekak]

When shimmed to performance specs, you need a clutch disk to turn the input shaft when it's in gear.

 

[turboglenn]

donniekak, I was using the "special tool" i made from plasma cutting the center from an OEM disk, cleaning it up on the lathe and welding it to a spare 1" socket, having that on a breaker bar i used the bar to turn the trans while i checked the operation of the shifing into each gear... I could only turn it bu hand when it was in neutral other than that.

Once i got it in the car i was able to shift most gears in one shotwith the engine off (sometimes a gear needed a second try) but none the less they all worked

The only things i've gt left to do at this point is to put the alst 1/2-3/4 quart of oil in the trans, finish filling the T-case (has 1/2 quart in it now) and install the UICP, air-filter/intake, splash gaurds, right wheel and to hook up the battery (can't wait to test it out but i'll be honest that i'm pretty nervous about how well it shiftts compared to some trannis i've been use to in the past both aftermarket and local builds..I hope mine stacks up!!!!!!!

Thought i'd toss a few pics up from the build, ididn;'t take many but there's a few

You can see i modded the harbor freidght 6 ton a-frame press to be long enough for the gear clusters (worked perfect!)

you can also see some shots of the trans apart, together and done as well as some center diffs and VC's (welded the CD in this pic of it alone)

 

[1983gsp]

Updates?

 

[turboglenn]

UPdates are as follows.. since getting my health and stuff basclaly where i've accepted it and started playing with the car again i've been driving it and tuning it in more and more, the car is pulling great, on a cool night first gear the entire car crosses up from loss of traction by all tires from rolling on the gas, second is still spinning but not as bad, the shifting is AWESOME especially at high RPM and when warm (just as with any tightly shimmed trans there's a bit of notchyness at low rpm when the engine and trans are cold at the start of the day during thge fuirst few miles, after that it's flawless.

there's no noises or anything and it's running and holding power a lot better than the OEM one i blew up a while back, overall i'm very proud of myself and thankfull to Tim Zimmer for his tips and getting me my parts so fast. without his help i'd probably still be without a car to drive due to funding issues