twicks69
Supporting Vendor
- 4,310
- 2,020
- Mar 12, 2004
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Milwaukee,
Wisconsin
I have been receiving a lot of messages over the years from members asking for instructions on disassembly of their W5M33 transmission. Each one can be a little different regarding gearset components, but this is a fairly detailed how-to, along with useful tools, and tips for you to do it on your own. It might be a bit long and winded, but this is what I typed off the top of my head for the most recent member asking for help. I thought I would just share it with everyone here to make it easier to link to others! Have fun reading and enjoy tearing down your transmission!
FSM - I have several located in this section of the forum, search by looking for links downloaded by my username. - https://www.dsmtuners.com/forum/articles-manuals-documents.262/
Link to Shimming Process - https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/trans-plan-sanity-check.532463/#post-153788265
(Also see post #2 of this thread, there is a .pdf document attached with more in-depth shimming notes)
Tools -
12-ton or larger hydraulic press
Press stands and bearing splitters - https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/heavy-tools.545995/#post-153909693
Press tools for installation of bearings, hub and sliders, needle bearing sleeves, etc - I use a number of OTC and Miller Tool or Kent Moore or Rotunda OEM manufacturer tools from different sets that I have compiled over the years.
Some that help -
snap ring pliers - https://a.co/d/g6gtZRl - Link to Titan 51901 lock ring pliers
seal puller - https://a.co/d/5W0ZZHa - Link to Lisle 56750 seal puller
OTC 1122 bearing splitter - https://a.co/d/0lNi66j - Link to OTC 1122 splitter
OTC 7393 push-puller - https://a.co/d/3Mjn6Sw - Link to OTC 7393 push puller
Miller MD998321 seal installer (special tool for input shaft seal installation)
Bearing race installers and drive handle - https://a.co/d/2IVNyQX - Link to Orion Motor Tech Bearing Press Kit, 10pc Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set with Seal Driver and 9 Bearing Adapters
3/16" cabinet tip flat head screwdriver - https://a.co/d/7x9ihuj - Link to Klein 601-4 screwdriver (for unstaking the shaft nuts)
36mm socket (end shaft nuts)
32mm socket (for use with PPG end shaft nuts!!)
1/4" tip pen magnet pick up tool
3/8" drive torque wrench
1/2" drive torque wrench
10mm deep socket (for speed sensor removal)
12mm socket
12mm deep socket
14mm deep socket
17mm socket
19mm socket
24mm deep socket
T35 Torx socket (for removal of the metal input shaft oil guide bracket)
M5 and M6 hex sockets (for removal of the metal input shaft oil guide bracket)
T50 Torx socket
swivel-head socket attachment - https://a.co/d/gXU5MXl - Link to Sunex 3301 socket
3/8" drive short 3" extension
3/8" drive medium 6" extension
2 prybars - medium sized with thinner tips
1/2" impact or cordless impact
3/8" impact or cordless impact
3/8" ratchet
3/16" roll pin punches (standard and extended length) - Proto J49316 works well
vise grip pliers
air hammer with a point tip attachment and 3/16 punch attachment are useful tools to have
the 3/16" punch attachment can be found here - https://a.co/d/0gnCh23, or to a complete set - https://a.co/d/3VMgY25
hammer or mini-sledge
dead-blow hammer
Permatex Ultra Grey or Ultra Black RTV silicone
Brake-cleaner for degreasing purposes
Metal trays for cleaning purposes
Trans lube (or vasoline, or thick gear oil -- I use Petroleum Jelly that I mix with 75w140 gear oil and whip up using a drill and a beaters)
Squirt bottle full of 75w140 gear oil used for lubing up components
These are the majority of the tools required for teardown.
Special tools that I also use - For gearset assembly I have numerous press tools. These are my most used on DSM stuff - Miller L-4462, L-4411, L-4507, 9679, 9666, 9355, 9619, 9625, 9676, 9678, 8481, 9647 splitter, etc. I have a mixture of Miller, Kent Moore and Rotunda, along with stupid-simple installers like exhaust transitions from the smallest diameter you can find (IIRC 1-5/8") to 3" diameter. I could list numerous ones that make the work alot easier to do. Kent Moore DT-48145 and DT-48146 press plates are very useful as well.
Tool kits that are helpful and have alot of good tools include parts from Miller 8708 (SRT4 neon kits), Miller G238 tools (9691 box 1) and NV5600 tool kits, Miller 9675 LX AWD tools, etc. They have gone up in price lately, but just look through on Ebay for any of the Miller numbers I posted above and do some searching.
Seal Installers -
Miller tool 8475 drive handle with MB991115 installer for the right axle seal (MD707184) into the case.
Miller tool MD-998321 tool for input shaft seal (MD741818) installation into the case.
Miller tool 8891, for left axle seal (MD719710), note the orientation of the left axle seal and have the indent of the seal edge facing 12-o-clock position on install into the bellhousing.
Miller tool MH061400 for output shaft seal (MD723202) installation into case.
I made my own press stands out of steel plate and square tube. You can do it other ways as well, but mine are heavy duty and work excellent.
My press stands are made with the following parts, then welded up.
Short press stand -
upper plate = 5"x5"x0.5" plate
lower plate = 5"x6"x0.5" plate
square tube = 4"x4"x6" tall
Long press stand -
upper plate = 5"x5"x0.5" plate
lower plate = 5"x6"x0.5" plate
square tube = 4"x4"x9" tall
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W5M33 transmission disassembly -
Remove the 5th gear cover (2x 14mm long bolts and 9x 14mm medium bolts), place your prybar between the drain plug and the casting on the bearing plate to separate the cover, and then use two prybars to gently to remove it from the case and place aside. The reverse cone wave spring might fall off, just put it aside for now. You are now looking at the viscous coupler, 5th gearset with the 5th intermediate shaft smaller gear, and the 5th input shaft larger gear and 5th/Reverse hub and slider assembly / 5th/Reverse shift fork and reverse synchro on top. First off, use compressed air with an air wand and a rag, gently blow out any goo or debris in the stakes of the input and intermediate shafts so you can then prep for unstaking the shaft nuts. Use your hammer and 3/16" straight blade flathead screwdriver to pound out the stakes on the end shaft nuts so you can remove them.
Now, once the shaft nuts are unstaked, with one hand pressing down on the reverse synchro to keep it in place, use your other hand to manually shift the transmission shift select lever into reverse (5th/rev hub and slider will move upwards to engage the synchro). Again, use compressed air and an air wand, grab a rag and the air wand and blow out the detent areas on the end shaft nuts to remove any debris that may get caught between the shaft nut and the threads on the shafts. Then, use your 1/2" impact and 36mm socket to remove the end shaft nuts.
Remove the viscous coupler snapring, then use two prybars to evenly pry up the viscous coupler off of the center differential. Once the viscous coupler is removed, there will be one detent ball in the center diff upper pinion gear sleeve that you will grab with a magnetic pickup tool, or later on when you pull the center differential. It is smaller than the detent balls for the shift rails for easy identification later on.
With the shaft nuts off, and still engaged in reverse, you will now have limited access to the 5/R shift fork roll pin from the backside using your 3/16" roll pin punch. If you are working with a 97-99 transmission, the roll pin is offset so you can knock out the 5/R shift fork roll pin easily. On 1990-1996 transmissions, you will not be able to remove the roll pin by hitting it from the front side of it, because the roll pin will jam against the 5/R hub and then you will have more problems. By hitting it from the backside enough to get it to move a 1/4" outwards, then you can use your vise grips pliers and grab onto it straight forward on using the tip of the vise grip parallel to the tip of the roll pin. With it tight enough, you should be able to work it in a rotating / pulling motion and remove the roll pin from the shift fork. ONLY on 97-99 F5M33 and W5M33 transmissions can you hit the roll pin out from the front side because they have an offset roll pin orientation that does not interfere with the 5th/Rev hub; while 1990-1996 F5M33 and W5M33 transmissions do not have an offset roll pin orientation and do have interference with the 5th/Rev hub.
Shift back into neutral, then using your two prybars (ideally with thinner pry tips), place the prybars UNDER 5th gear synchro, above 5th gear engagement teeth, prybars evenly spaced, and pry upwards to separate the 5th/Rev hub and slider assembly and remove. Remove 5th gear and 5th needle bearings. Now, remove the 5th intermediate gear. It could be easy to remove by hand, or hard to remove requiring special tools -- DO NOT PRY THE GEAR OFF!!! YOU WILL CHIP THE TEETH! Use the proper tool. That would be an OTC 1122 bearing splitter and OTC 7393 push-puller tool by inserting the jaws on the top flange of the 5th intermediate gear and then remove the gear with the special tool, 19mm socket and cordless impact.
Remove the reverse light switch and crush washer (24mm deep socket), remove the reverse lockout bolt and crush washer (19mm socket), remove the three shift detent poppet plugs (14mm socket)/springs/detent balls (using your pen magnet tool), and reverse idler gear bolt and crush washer (either a T50 Torx or 14mm bolt next to front differential passenger-side axle seal).
Using a deadblow hammer, whack upwards on the bearing plate on the triangular portion of the casting to separate the bearing plate from the main gear cluster case section. Once removed, pull out the center differential and retrieve the viscous coupler detent ball if you didn't get it removed earlier.
Remove the gear cluster case section bolts using your 14mm deep socket and 6" extension with your impact, and remove case section gently using two prybars evenly spreading the case gently upward. There is a pry spot near the shift selector lever that you can get underneath to start it. You will want to evenly pry up with one prybar by the front diff side, and one by the selector lever side you started at.
***NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE REVERSE IDLER GEAR*** You will need to have the reverse idler shaft oriented properly so that the reverse idler gear shaft bolt properly reinstalls -- note the direction that is required so it matches up with the transmission case for easy installation. The black plastic main case oil guide may fall off, there is a slot it is retained by on the gear cluster case section.
Now, with the case removed, lift up on the reverse idler gear shaft and remove the shaft, then slide out the gear and remove the key from the reverse linkage arm. Remove the two 12mm bolts that attach the reverse linkage arm to the bellhousing using a 12mm short socket and swivel with 3" extension and impact. Remove the linkage arm.
Remove the front differential and output pinion shaft, needle bearing and output shaft.
Now, using your 3/16" roll pin punch and vise grip pliers, set up the pliers as a holder for the roll pin punch. Using your hammer and pliers with roll pin punch, remove the roll pins for the 1/2 and 3/4 shift forks. If you have an air hammer with a 3/16" roll pin punch attachment, this works as well.
With the selector in the neutral position, rotate the 5th/Reverse and 3rd/4th shift rail ends away from the selector (to the right) using your hands or gently using a small prybar. Orient the 5th/Rev rail end first by pulling upward and away from the shift selector. While the 5th/Rev rail end is up/away, do the same with the 3/4 rail end so that it clears the shift selector assembly. With the 1st/2nd rail end, go the OPPOSITE DIRECTION to the left while moving the shift selector and cage away from it and with the 1/2 rail end cleared of the selector, grab the two shafts with shift rails/forks and pull upwards. All the gear clusters and shift rails/rail ends/forks will come up as one single unit.
Inspect entire assembly and clean transmission case and magnet of any debris. Clean the case sections of RTV on the flanges and have everything fully degreased and cleaned off.
The input shaft assembly consists of the input shaft, input shaft inner tapered roller bearing, 3rd gear needle bearing, 3rd gear and subgear, 3rd gear synchro, 3rd/4th hub and slider assembly (with springs and keys), 4th gear synchro, 4th gear needle bearing sleeve, 4th gear needle bearing, 4th gear, input shaft outer tapered roller bearing, input shaft snapring, 5th gear needle bearing sleeve.
The intermediate shaft assembly consists of the intermediate shaft, intermediate shaft inner tapered roller bearing and intermediate shaft snapring, then 1st gear needle bearing sleeve, 1st gear needle bearing, 1st gear, 1st gear synchro, 1/2 hub and slider assembly (with springs and keys), 2nd gear double synchro, 2nd gear needle bearing, 2nd gear, then on the other side the intermediate shaft outer tapered roller bearing.
You will need snapring pliers, and an OTC 1123 bearing splitter to disassemble the gear clusters. First, lets do the input shaft, then the intermediate shaft -
Using your splitters and press stands, place the bearing splitters under the 5th gear needle bearing sleeve.
Then remove the input shaft snapring.
Then place your bearing splitters above the input shaft 2nd gear casting, under the 3rd gear and gently press up the entire floating gear cluster assembly. Then remove the components from the press and remove 3rd gear needle bearing. Removing the input shaft inner tapered roller bearing can be a bit more difficult, but you will need to take your time and be careful, otherwise you will make it much more difficult on yourself if you wreck the bearing cage and separate the bearing into pieces requiring much more time dicking around with it.
The intermediate shaft disassembles by carefully removing the intermediate shaft snapring, if it is stubborn, use a sleeve or tube press tool to put some pressure on the inner bearing race, then remove and try again on removing the snapring. These are obsolete parts, so you have to be very careful! Now, with the snapring removed, place your bearing splitter under the 2nd gear and press off the entire floating gear cluster assembly of the 2nd gear, 1/2 hub and slider, 1st gear and inner tapered roller bearing all in one push. To remove the outer tapered roller bearing, it is again requiring very careful removal (like the input shaft inner tapered roller bearing), you may want to use some heat and spray it down with WD40 to help it remove from the shaft easier.
Center differential disassembly is done by using a cordless impact and 6-point 14mm deep socket. Remove the cover bolts, remove the cover with the upper pinion gear and oiling washer. Remove the 2x spider gears / cross shaft / spider gear thrust washers. Remove the lower pinion gear and oiling shim. Thoroughly inspect all components for wear or damage and clean thoroughly.
Front diff is more detailed, but just first clean it thoroughly and inspect the ring gear teeth and the spider gears/ pinion gears on the diff without the need to disassemble. If you are replacing the diff, use a 1/2" impact with a 6 point 19mm socket and GENTLY loosen a couple revolutions of each bolt before trying to fully remove any of the bolts!! This will make it easier to not damage the bolts and take the stress off of the bolts and the ring gear if the gear shifted which would strip bolt threads of you just try to fully remove each bolt one at a time -- once all of the bolts have been started to be loosened, then continue going around a couple of times to loosen each bolt until all of the bolts are removed. Clean off the loctite from the fasteners and the ring gear, and thoroughly clean all of the components. Soaking the bolts in a tray of brake clean will make it easier to remove the loctite from the threads with a pick tool or razor blade. Remove any loctite residue from the ring gear with an abrasive tool like a die grinder with a green or red scotchbrite abrasive roloc pad (2" or 3" is what I typically use).
For removal of the axle seals and output shaft seal you will hammer those out carefully. You will use a seal puller hook tool to remove the input shaft seal.
For removal of the bearing races, I use a slide hammer with a Miller Tool 9664 bearing cup remover tool.
For installation of the new seals, I use a Miller tool 8475 drive handle with MB991115 installer for the right axle seal into the case. For the input shaft seal, I use a Miller tool MD-998321 tool. For the left axle I use a Miller tool 8891, note the orientation of the left axle seal and have the indent of the seal edge facing 12-o-clock position on install into the bellhousing. For the output shaft seal, I use a Miller tool MH061400.
For installation of the bearing races, I use a standard bearing race driver set.
Reassembly of the components - clean everything thoroughly and blow clean with compressed air!
I use a squirt bottle of 75w140 gear oil to lube all of the gear thrust faces, needle bearing bores, synchro linings while assembling!
Input shaft - install a new input shaft inner tapered roller bearing (MD732314) in the press. Then flip over and fixture, then install the 3rd gear needle bearing, 3rd gear and subgear, 3rd gear synchro, note orientation of the 3/4 hub and slider (there is a small round detent mark on the flange of the 3rd gear side of the hub that faces down towards 3rd gear!) Orient the oil groove with the oil port on the input shaft. Press on the hub and slider assembly while keeping the orientation of the synchro keyways aligned with the hub and slider keyways so it doesn't jam the synchro. Press on the 4th gear needle bearing sleeve. Install the 4th gear synchro, 4th gear needle bearings, 4th gear, then press on the input shaft outer tapered roller bearing (MD726235), then install the input shaft snapring. Then press on the 5th gear needle bearing sleeve.
Intermediate shaft - install a new intermediate shaft outer tapered roller bearing (MD736638). Then flip over and fixture, then install the 2nd gear needle bearing, 2nd gear, 2nd gear double synchro, then note the orientation of the 1/2 hub and slider (there is a small round detent mark on the flange of the 2nd gear side of the hub that faces down towards 2nd gear!) Orient the oil groove with the oil port on the intermediate shaft. Press on the hub and slider assembly while keeping the orientation of the synchro keyways aligned with the hub and slider keyways so it doesn't jam the synchro. Install the 1st gear synchro, 1st gear and needle bearing, then press on the 1st gear needle bearing sleeve with the oil port of the sleeve 180* offset from the shaft oil port. Then install the intermediate shaft inner tapered roller bearing (MD726236), and the intermediate shaft snapring.
Center diff - clean, inspect, reassemble if not damaged. Cover bolts use loctite blue 242 or 243 on clean fasteners! I use a 3/8" cordless impact and 6 point 14mm deep socket and start each fastener, then tighten to impact torque, or at least 47 ft/lb.
Lube the tapered roller beaings of the input shaft, intermediate shaft, output pinion shaft and needle bearing, and front diff roller bearings.
Assemble the gear clusters with the shift forks just like how you removed them originally. Reinstall the cluster assembly, modulate the shift rail ends just like how you removed them to get them all back to centered orienation with the 1/2 on the left side of the shift selector, the 3/4 on the center of the shift selector and the 5th/rev on the right side of the shift selector in the neutral position.
Reinstall new roll pins for the 1/2 and 3/4 shift forks. (M5x24mm works, or MD701722 are the OEM roll pins)
Reinstall the output pinion shaft with needle bearing (lubed up) and output shaft. Elevate the case around 2" off of the work surface by the front diff side of the case so the output shaft rests freely and is not pushing up the output pinion shaft.
Reinstall the front differential and lube the bore of the gear cluster case section and place the front diff shim into the case.
Reinstall the reverse linkage arm and 12mm bolts - 16-18 lb/ft torque. Reinstall the reverse linkage key, idler gear and slide the idler gear shaft back into the oiling detent with the bolt hole orientation towards the front diff properly so it aligns with the main case section. If you have to, look at the main gear cluster case section to see where the hole on the case is for the reverse idler shaft is and look at its orientation to the case bolt holes to get it properly oriented.
Reinstall the case debris magnet tray.
RTV silicone both sides of the case section flanges evenly with a thin bead of Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Gray RTV silicone. Otherwise, using your finger, evenly spread a thin coat on the case section flange so that all contact area is evenly covered with the RTV silicone. Now install the black plastic oil guide back onto the gear cluster case section and install the case onto the bellhousing. Use your screwdriver or roll pin punch to orient the reverse idler rail correctly and install the reverse idler rail bolt and crush washer to get it started.
Reinstall the reverse idler gear bolt (get it started so you can then later torque it to 29 lb/ft torque. (Tapered end bolt with aluminum crush washer).
Reinstall the 14mm bolts that attach the main case section to the bellhousing to 29 lb/ft torque EVENLY.
Reinstall the 19mm reverse lockout switch bolt and crush washer (19mm head with spring-loaded detent ball on the end and 1mm thick aluminum flat crush washer) to 22-25 lb/ft torque.
Reinstall the center differential.
RTV the gear cluster case flange and the adjoining bearing plate flange, then install the bearing plate with bearing races and shims.
Reinstall the 24mm reverse switch (plug head with 24mm hex-shape body and aluminum crush washer -- DO NOT FORGET THE WASHER or you will have problems shifting into 5th/Reverse) to 22-25 lb/ft torque.
Reinstall 5th intermediate gear and 5th gear split needle bearings/5th gear. Reinstall the 5th/Reverse hub and slider gently/evenly with 5th and reverse synchros with the keyways oriented properly so it does not bind up or get damaged. Slide the hub and slider back on WITH THE 5th/Rev shift fork at the same time being installed onto the 5th/Rev rail. You can use a socket and hammer to gently tap the 5th intermediate gear back into place, and the same goes for the 5/R hub and slider assembly. Be sure your 5th gear synchro keyways align with the hub and slider keyways! Same with the reverse synchro once the hub and slider is installed fully.
If you do not have a 1/2" impact, and only a torque wrench, you can engage two gears by shifting the transmission into 1st gear, and then manually press down on the 5th/Rev slider to engage 5th gear. With both gears engaged you can install the end shaft nuts and use a torque wrench and 36mm socket to tighten the shaft nuts.
OR
If you have a 1/2" impact, you can simply reinstall the 5th/Rev shift fork roll pin, then install the shaft nuts, shift it into reverse with hand pressure to retain the reverse synchro while engaging reverse. Then use the impact and 36mm socket to tighten the shaft nuts.
Ping the detents with either a punch/hammer or a small point punch on an air hammer GENTLY for both end shaft nuts.
Place back into neutral, reinstall the poppet balls, springs and plugs. I use Loctite 290 green wicking medium thread locker on the poppet plug threads. Torque the poppet plugs to 22-29 ft/lbs.
Reinstall the viscous coupler detent ball with one hand underneath or a prybar underneath on the output shaft, slide it up so the detent ball orients with the groove in the output shaft, then install the viscous coupler starting to slide it downwards and then gently rotating it to align the second set of splines onto the center diff. Hit with dead blow hammer to fully seat the viscous coupler, and then install the viscous coupler snapring.
Be sure that you have the roll pin back in the 5th/Rev shift fork, and that the transmission is back in the neutral position.
RTV transmission case flange for 5th gear cover and the bearing plate flange evenly.
Be sure your reverse wave spring is still in place on the 5th gear cover on the reverse cone, and that the reverse synchro is properly reinstalled on its keyways. If your wave spring fell off during disassembly, you can reinstall it on the reverse cone of the 5th gear cover with the two locking tabs oriented in the slot of the casting, press down on it until it is locked onto the reverse cone, rotating it to confirm that the tabs are locked into place in the correct orientation.
Reinstall 5th gear cover, tap down with a dead blow hammer gently to have it seated, and then evenly install the 14mm bolts to 29 lb/ft torque.
Non-reusable parts mentioned -
AWD trans:
End Shaft Nut - MD731948 x 2
Roll Pins - MD701722 x 3
Input Shaft Seal - MD741818
Left axle seal - MD719710
Right axle seal - MD707184
Output shaft seal - MD723202
Reverse lockout and reverse switch crush washers are 14mm ID / 22mm OD / 1mm thick aluminum crush washers.
Reverse idler rail retaining bolt crush washer is 10mm ID / 14mm OD / 1mm thick aluminum crush washer
Fill plug crush washer is 16mm ID
Drain plug crush washer is 18mm ID
FSM - I have several located in this section of the forum, search by looking for links downloaded by my username. - https://www.dsmtuners.com/forum/articles-manuals-documents.262/
Link to Shimming Process - https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/trans-plan-sanity-check.532463/#post-153788265
(Also see post #2 of this thread, there is a .pdf document attached with more in-depth shimming notes)
Tools -
12-ton or larger hydraulic press
Press stands and bearing splitters - https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/heavy-tools.545995/#post-153909693
Press tools for installation of bearings, hub and sliders, needle bearing sleeves, etc - I use a number of OTC and Miller Tool or Kent Moore or Rotunda OEM manufacturer tools from different sets that I have compiled over the years.
Some that help -
snap ring pliers - https://a.co/d/g6gtZRl - Link to Titan 51901 lock ring pliers
seal puller - https://a.co/d/5W0ZZHa - Link to Lisle 56750 seal puller
OTC 1122 bearing splitter - https://a.co/d/0lNi66j - Link to OTC 1122 splitter
OTC 7393 push-puller - https://a.co/d/3Mjn6Sw - Link to OTC 7393 push puller
Miller MD998321 seal installer (special tool for input shaft seal installation)
Bearing race installers and drive handle - https://a.co/d/2IVNyQX - Link to Orion Motor Tech Bearing Press Kit, 10pc Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set with Seal Driver and 9 Bearing Adapters
3/16" cabinet tip flat head screwdriver - https://a.co/d/7x9ihuj - Link to Klein 601-4 screwdriver (for unstaking the shaft nuts)
36mm socket (end shaft nuts)
32mm socket (for use with PPG end shaft nuts!!)
1/4" tip pen magnet pick up tool
3/8" drive torque wrench
1/2" drive torque wrench
10mm deep socket (for speed sensor removal)
12mm socket
12mm deep socket
14mm deep socket
17mm socket
19mm socket
24mm deep socket
T35 Torx socket (for removal of the metal input shaft oil guide bracket)
M5 and M6 hex sockets (for removal of the metal input shaft oil guide bracket)
T50 Torx socket
swivel-head socket attachment - https://a.co/d/gXU5MXl - Link to Sunex 3301 socket
3/8" drive short 3" extension
3/8" drive medium 6" extension
2 prybars - medium sized with thinner tips
1/2" impact or cordless impact
3/8" impact or cordless impact
3/8" ratchet
3/16" roll pin punches (standard and extended length) - Proto J49316 works well
vise grip pliers
air hammer with a point tip attachment and 3/16 punch attachment are useful tools to have
the 3/16" punch attachment can be found here - https://a.co/d/0gnCh23, or to a complete set - https://a.co/d/3VMgY25
hammer or mini-sledge
dead-blow hammer
Permatex Ultra Grey or Ultra Black RTV silicone
Brake-cleaner for degreasing purposes
Metal trays for cleaning purposes
Trans lube (or vasoline, or thick gear oil -- I use Petroleum Jelly that I mix with 75w140 gear oil and whip up using a drill and a beaters)
Squirt bottle full of 75w140 gear oil used for lubing up components
These are the majority of the tools required for teardown.
Special tools that I also use - For gearset assembly I have numerous press tools. These are my most used on DSM stuff - Miller L-4462, L-4411, L-4507, 9679, 9666, 9355, 9619, 9625, 9676, 9678, 8481, 9647 splitter, etc. I have a mixture of Miller, Kent Moore and Rotunda, along with stupid-simple installers like exhaust transitions from the smallest diameter you can find (IIRC 1-5/8") to 3" diameter. I could list numerous ones that make the work alot easier to do. Kent Moore DT-48145 and DT-48146 press plates are very useful as well.
Tool kits that are helpful and have alot of good tools include parts from Miller 8708 (SRT4 neon kits), Miller G238 tools (9691 box 1) and NV5600 tool kits, Miller 9675 LX AWD tools, etc. They have gone up in price lately, but just look through on Ebay for any of the Miller numbers I posted above and do some searching.
Seal Installers -
Miller tool 8475 drive handle with MB991115 installer for the right axle seal (MD707184) into the case.
Miller tool MD-998321 tool for input shaft seal (MD741818) installation into the case.
Miller tool 8891, for left axle seal (MD719710), note the orientation of the left axle seal and have the indent of the seal edge facing 12-o-clock position on install into the bellhousing.
Miller tool MH061400 for output shaft seal (MD723202) installation into case.
I made my own press stands out of steel plate and square tube. You can do it other ways as well, but mine are heavy duty and work excellent.
My press stands are made with the following parts, then welded up.
Short press stand -
upper plate = 5"x5"x0.5" plate
lower plate = 5"x6"x0.5" plate
square tube = 4"x4"x6" tall
Long press stand -
upper plate = 5"x5"x0.5" plate
lower plate = 5"x6"x0.5" plate
square tube = 4"x4"x9" tall
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
W5M33 transmission disassembly -
Remove the 5th gear cover (2x 14mm long bolts and 9x 14mm medium bolts), place your prybar between the drain plug and the casting on the bearing plate to separate the cover, and then use two prybars to gently to remove it from the case and place aside. The reverse cone wave spring might fall off, just put it aside for now. You are now looking at the viscous coupler, 5th gearset with the 5th intermediate shaft smaller gear, and the 5th input shaft larger gear and 5th/Reverse hub and slider assembly / 5th/Reverse shift fork and reverse synchro on top. First off, use compressed air with an air wand and a rag, gently blow out any goo or debris in the stakes of the input and intermediate shafts so you can then prep for unstaking the shaft nuts. Use your hammer and 3/16" straight blade flathead screwdriver to pound out the stakes on the end shaft nuts so you can remove them.
Now, once the shaft nuts are unstaked, with one hand pressing down on the reverse synchro to keep it in place, use your other hand to manually shift the transmission shift select lever into reverse (5th/rev hub and slider will move upwards to engage the synchro). Again, use compressed air and an air wand, grab a rag and the air wand and blow out the detent areas on the end shaft nuts to remove any debris that may get caught between the shaft nut and the threads on the shafts. Then, use your 1/2" impact and 36mm socket to remove the end shaft nuts.
Remove the viscous coupler snapring, then use two prybars to evenly pry up the viscous coupler off of the center differential. Once the viscous coupler is removed, there will be one detent ball in the center diff upper pinion gear sleeve that you will grab with a magnetic pickup tool, or later on when you pull the center differential. It is smaller than the detent balls for the shift rails for easy identification later on.
With the shaft nuts off, and still engaged in reverse, you will now have limited access to the 5/R shift fork roll pin from the backside using your 3/16" roll pin punch. If you are working with a 97-99 transmission, the roll pin is offset so you can knock out the 5/R shift fork roll pin easily. On 1990-1996 transmissions, you will not be able to remove the roll pin by hitting it from the front side of it, because the roll pin will jam against the 5/R hub and then you will have more problems. By hitting it from the backside enough to get it to move a 1/4" outwards, then you can use your vise grips pliers and grab onto it straight forward on using the tip of the vise grip parallel to the tip of the roll pin. With it tight enough, you should be able to work it in a rotating / pulling motion and remove the roll pin from the shift fork. ONLY on 97-99 F5M33 and W5M33 transmissions can you hit the roll pin out from the front side because they have an offset roll pin orientation that does not interfere with the 5th/Rev hub; while 1990-1996 F5M33 and W5M33 transmissions do not have an offset roll pin orientation and do have interference with the 5th/Rev hub.
Shift back into neutral, then using your two prybars (ideally with thinner pry tips), place the prybars UNDER 5th gear synchro, above 5th gear engagement teeth, prybars evenly spaced, and pry upwards to separate the 5th/Rev hub and slider assembly and remove. Remove 5th gear and 5th needle bearings. Now, remove the 5th intermediate gear. It could be easy to remove by hand, or hard to remove requiring special tools -- DO NOT PRY THE GEAR OFF!!! YOU WILL CHIP THE TEETH! Use the proper tool. That would be an OTC 1122 bearing splitter and OTC 7393 push-puller tool by inserting the jaws on the top flange of the 5th intermediate gear and then remove the gear with the special tool, 19mm socket and cordless impact.
Remove the reverse light switch and crush washer (24mm deep socket), remove the reverse lockout bolt and crush washer (19mm socket), remove the three shift detent poppet plugs (14mm socket)/springs/detent balls (using your pen magnet tool), and reverse idler gear bolt and crush washer (either a T50 Torx or 14mm bolt next to front differential passenger-side axle seal).
Using a deadblow hammer, whack upwards on the bearing plate on the triangular portion of the casting to separate the bearing plate from the main gear cluster case section. Once removed, pull out the center differential and retrieve the viscous coupler detent ball if you didn't get it removed earlier.
Remove the gear cluster case section bolts using your 14mm deep socket and 6" extension with your impact, and remove case section gently using two prybars evenly spreading the case gently upward. There is a pry spot near the shift selector lever that you can get underneath to start it. You will want to evenly pry up with one prybar by the front diff side, and one by the selector lever side you started at.
***NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE REVERSE IDLER GEAR*** You will need to have the reverse idler shaft oriented properly so that the reverse idler gear shaft bolt properly reinstalls -- note the direction that is required so it matches up with the transmission case for easy installation. The black plastic main case oil guide may fall off, there is a slot it is retained by on the gear cluster case section.
Now, with the case removed, lift up on the reverse idler gear shaft and remove the shaft, then slide out the gear and remove the key from the reverse linkage arm. Remove the two 12mm bolts that attach the reverse linkage arm to the bellhousing using a 12mm short socket and swivel with 3" extension and impact. Remove the linkage arm.
Remove the front differential and output pinion shaft, needle bearing and output shaft.
Now, using your 3/16" roll pin punch and vise grip pliers, set up the pliers as a holder for the roll pin punch. Using your hammer and pliers with roll pin punch, remove the roll pins for the 1/2 and 3/4 shift forks. If you have an air hammer with a 3/16" roll pin punch attachment, this works as well.
With the selector in the neutral position, rotate the 5th/Reverse and 3rd/4th shift rail ends away from the selector (to the right) using your hands or gently using a small prybar. Orient the 5th/Rev rail end first by pulling upward and away from the shift selector. While the 5th/Rev rail end is up/away, do the same with the 3/4 rail end so that it clears the shift selector assembly. With the 1st/2nd rail end, go the OPPOSITE DIRECTION to the left while moving the shift selector and cage away from it and with the 1/2 rail end cleared of the selector, grab the two shafts with shift rails/forks and pull upwards. All the gear clusters and shift rails/rail ends/forks will come up as one single unit.
Inspect entire assembly and clean transmission case and magnet of any debris. Clean the case sections of RTV on the flanges and have everything fully degreased and cleaned off.
The input shaft assembly consists of the input shaft, input shaft inner tapered roller bearing, 3rd gear needle bearing, 3rd gear and subgear, 3rd gear synchro, 3rd/4th hub and slider assembly (with springs and keys), 4th gear synchro, 4th gear needle bearing sleeve, 4th gear needle bearing, 4th gear, input shaft outer tapered roller bearing, input shaft snapring, 5th gear needle bearing sleeve.
The intermediate shaft assembly consists of the intermediate shaft, intermediate shaft inner tapered roller bearing and intermediate shaft snapring, then 1st gear needle bearing sleeve, 1st gear needle bearing, 1st gear, 1st gear synchro, 1/2 hub and slider assembly (with springs and keys), 2nd gear double synchro, 2nd gear needle bearing, 2nd gear, then on the other side the intermediate shaft outer tapered roller bearing.
You will need snapring pliers, and an OTC 1123 bearing splitter to disassemble the gear clusters. First, lets do the input shaft, then the intermediate shaft -
Using your splitters and press stands, place the bearing splitters under the 5th gear needle bearing sleeve.
Then remove the input shaft snapring.
Then place your bearing splitters above the input shaft 2nd gear casting, under the 3rd gear and gently press up the entire floating gear cluster assembly. Then remove the components from the press and remove 3rd gear needle bearing. Removing the input shaft inner tapered roller bearing can be a bit more difficult, but you will need to take your time and be careful, otherwise you will make it much more difficult on yourself if you wreck the bearing cage and separate the bearing into pieces requiring much more time dicking around with it.
The intermediate shaft disassembles by carefully removing the intermediate shaft snapring, if it is stubborn, use a sleeve or tube press tool to put some pressure on the inner bearing race, then remove and try again on removing the snapring. These are obsolete parts, so you have to be very careful! Now, with the snapring removed, place your bearing splitter under the 2nd gear and press off the entire floating gear cluster assembly of the 2nd gear, 1/2 hub and slider, 1st gear and inner tapered roller bearing all in one push. To remove the outer tapered roller bearing, it is again requiring very careful removal (like the input shaft inner tapered roller bearing), you may want to use some heat and spray it down with WD40 to help it remove from the shaft easier.
Center differential disassembly is done by using a cordless impact and 6-point 14mm deep socket. Remove the cover bolts, remove the cover with the upper pinion gear and oiling washer. Remove the 2x spider gears / cross shaft / spider gear thrust washers. Remove the lower pinion gear and oiling shim. Thoroughly inspect all components for wear or damage and clean thoroughly.
Front diff is more detailed, but just first clean it thoroughly and inspect the ring gear teeth and the spider gears/ pinion gears on the diff without the need to disassemble. If you are replacing the diff, use a 1/2" impact with a 6 point 19mm socket and GENTLY loosen a couple revolutions of each bolt before trying to fully remove any of the bolts!! This will make it easier to not damage the bolts and take the stress off of the bolts and the ring gear if the gear shifted which would strip bolt threads of you just try to fully remove each bolt one at a time -- once all of the bolts have been started to be loosened, then continue going around a couple of times to loosen each bolt until all of the bolts are removed. Clean off the loctite from the fasteners and the ring gear, and thoroughly clean all of the components. Soaking the bolts in a tray of brake clean will make it easier to remove the loctite from the threads with a pick tool or razor blade. Remove any loctite residue from the ring gear with an abrasive tool like a die grinder with a green or red scotchbrite abrasive roloc pad (2" or 3" is what I typically use).
For removal of the axle seals and output shaft seal you will hammer those out carefully. You will use a seal puller hook tool to remove the input shaft seal.
For removal of the bearing races, I use a slide hammer with a Miller Tool 9664 bearing cup remover tool.
For installation of the new seals, I use a Miller tool 8475 drive handle with MB991115 installer for the right axle seal into the case. For the input shaft seal, I use a Miller tool MD-998321 tool. For the left axle I use a Miller tool 8891, note the orientation of the left axle seal and have the indent of the seal edge facing 12-o-clock position on install into the bellhousing. For the output shaft seal, I use a Miller tool MH061400.
For installation of the bearing races, I use a standard bearing race driver set.
Reassembly of the components - clean everything thoroughly and blow clean with compressed air!
I use a squirt bottle of 75w140 gear oil to lube all of the gear thrust faces, needle bearing bores, synchro linings while assembling!
Input shaft - install a new input shaft inner tapered roller bearing (MD732314) in the press. Then flip over and fixture, then install the 3rd gear needle bearing, 3rd gear and subgear, 3rd gear synchro, note orientation of the 3/4 hub and slider (there is a small round detent mark on the flange of the 3rd gear side of the hub that faces down towards 3rd gear!) Orient the oil groove with the oil port on the input shaft. Press on the hub and slider assembly while keeping the orientation of the synchro keyways aligned with the hub and slider keyways so it doesn't jam the synchro. Press on the 4th gear needle bearing sleeve. Install the 4th gear synchro, 4th gear needle bearings, 4th gear, then press on the input shaft outer tapered roller bearing (MD726235), then install the input shaft snapring. Then press on the 5th gear needle bearing sleeve.
Intermediate shaft - install a new intermediate shaft outer tapered roller bearing (MD736638). Then flip over and fixture, then install the 2nd gear needle bearing, 2nd gear, 2nd gear double synchro, then note the orientation of the 1/2 hub and slider (there is a small round detent mark on the flange of the 2nd gear side of the hub that faces down towards 2nd gear!) Orient the oil groove with the oil port on the intermediate shaft. Press on the hub and slider assembly while keeping the orientation of the synchro keyways aligned with the hub and slider keyways so it doesn't jam the synchro. Install the 1st gear synchro, 1st gear and needle bearing, then press on the 1st gear needle bearing sleeve with the oil port of the sleeve 180* offset from the shaft oil port. Then install the intermediate shaft inner tapered roller bearing (MD726236), and the intermediate shaft snapring.
Center diff - clean, inspect, reassemble if not damaged. Cover bolts use loctite blue 242 or 243 on clean fasteners! I use a 3/8" cordless impact and 6 point 14mm deep socket and start each fastener, then tighten to impact torque, or at least 47 ft/lb.
Lube the tapered roller beaings of the input shaft, intermediate shaft, output pinion shaft and needle bearing, and front diff roller bearings.
Assemble the gear clusters with the shift forks just like how you removed them originally. Reinstall the cluster assembly, modulate the shift rail ends just like how you removed them to get them all back to centered orienation with the 1/2 on the left side of the shift selector, the 3/4 on the center of the shift selector and the 5th/rev on the right side of the shift selector in the neutral position.
Reinstall new roll pins for the 1/2 and 3/4 shift forks. (M5x24mm works, or MD701722 are the OEM roll pins)
Reinstall the output pinion shaft with needle bearing (lubed up) and output shaft. Elevate the case around 2" off of the work surface by the front diff side of the case so the output shaft rests freely and is not pushing up the output pinion shaft.
Reinstall the front differential and lube the bore of the gear cluster case section and place the front diff shim into the case.
Reinstall the reverse linkage arm and 12mm bolts - 16-18 lb/ft torque. Reinstall the reverse linkage key, idler gear and slide the idler gear shaft back into the oiling detent with the bolt hole orientation towards the front diff properly so it aligns with the main case section. If you have to, look at the main gear cluster case section to see where the hole on the case is for the reverse idler shaft is and look at its orientation to the case bolt holes to get it properly oriented.
Reinstall the case debris magnet tray.
RTV silicone both sides of the case section flanges evenly with a thin bead of Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Gray RTV silicone. Otherwise, using your finger, evenly spread a thin coat on the case section flange so that all contact area is evenly covered with the RTV silicone. Now install the black plastic oil guide back onto the gear cluster case section and install the case onto the bellhousing. Use your screwdriver or roll pin punch to orient the reverse idler rail correctly and install the reverse idler rail bolt and crush washer to get it started.
Reinstall the reverse idler gear bolt (get it started so you can then later torque it to 29 lb/ft torque. (Tapered end bolt with aluminum crush washer).
Reinstall the 14mm bolts that attach the main case section to the bellhousing to 29 lb/ft torque EVENLY.
Reinstall the 19mm reverse lockout switch bolt and crush washer (19mm head with spring-loaded detent ball on the end and 1mm thick aluminum flat crush washer) to 22-25 lb/ft torque.
Reinstall the center differential.
RTV the gear cluster case flange and the adjoining bearing plate flange, then install the bearing plate with bearing races and shims.
Reinstall the 24mm reverse switch (plug head with 24mm hex-shape body and aluminum crush washer -- DO NOT FORGET THE WASHER or you will have problems shifting into 5th/Reverse) to 22-25 lb/ft torque.
Reinstall 5th intermediate gear and 5th gear split needle bearings/5th gear. Reinstall the 5th/Reverse hub and slider gently/evenly with 5th and reverse synchros with the keyways oriented properly so it does not bind up or get damaged. Slide the hub and slider back on WITH THE 5th/Rev shift fork at the same time being installed onto the 5th/Rev rail. You can use a socket and hammer to gently tap the 5th intermediate gear back into place, and the same goes for the 5/R hub and slider assembly. Be sure your 5th gear synchro keyways align with the hub and slider keyways! Same with the reverse synchro once the hub and slider is installed fully.
If you do not have a 1/2" impact, and only a torque wrench, you can engage two gears by shifting the transmission into 1st gear, and then manually press down on the 5th/Rev slider to engage 5th gear. With both gears engaged you can install the end shaft nuts and use a torque wrench and 36mm socket to tighten the shaft nuts.
OR
If you have a 1/2" impact, you can simply reinstall the 5th/Rev shift fork roll pin, then install the shaft nuts, shift it into reverse with hand pressure to retain the reverse synchro while engaging reverse. Then use the impact and 36mm socket to tighten the shaft nuts.
Ping the detents with either a punch/hammer or a small point punch on an air hammer GENTLY for both end shaft nuts.
Place back into neutral, reinstall the poppet balls, springs and plugs. I use Loctite 290 green wicking medium thread locker on the poppet plug threads. Torque the poppet plugs to 22-29 ft/lbs.
Reinstall the viscous coupler detent ball with one hand underneath or a prybar underneath on the output shaft, slide it up so the detent ball orients with the groove in the output shaft, then install the viscous coupler starting to slide it downwards and then gently rotating it to align the second set of splines onto the center diff. Hit with dead blow hammer to fully seat the viscous coupler, and then install the viscous coupler snapring.
Be sure that you have the roll pin back in the 5th/Rev shift fork, and that the transmission is back in the neutral position.
RTV transmission case flange for 5th gear cover and the bearing plate flange evenly.
Be sure your reverse wave spring is still in place on the 5th gear cover on the reverse cone, and that the reverse synchro is properly reinstalled on its keyways. If your wave spring fell off during disassembly, you can reinstall it on the reverse cone of the 5th gear cover with the two locking tabs oriented in the slot of the casting, press down on it until it is locked onto the reverse cone, rotating it to confirm that the tabs are locked into place in the correct orientation.
Reinstall 5th gear cover, tap down with a dead blow hammer gently to have it seated, and then evenly install the 14mm bolts to 29 lb/ft torque.
Non-reusable parts mentioned -
AWD trans:
End Shaft Nut - MD731948 x 2
Roll Pins - MD701722 x 3
Input Shaft Seal - MD741818
Left axle seal - MD719710
Right axle seal - MD707184
Output shaft seal - MD723202
Reverse lockout and reverse switch crush washers are 14mm ID / 22mm OD / 1mm thick aluminum crush washers.
Reverse idler rail retaining bolt crush washer is 10mm ID / 14mm OD / 1mm thick aluminum crush washer
Fill plug crush washer is 16mm ID
Drain plug crush washer is 18mm ID
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