Ok so I bought the BSE kit from ebay (bad choice to begin with) and installed it into my 95 7 bolt block. Not knowing that there was a difference between the cheap kits and expensive kits. I mean it's just a stub shaft, a plug, and some bearings right? ...Wrong!!
So this is the kit that I bought.
And after ~130 miles of driving I noticed a little tick. Now this car had lifter tick pretty bad before the BSE. After putting it all together there was lifter tick no more
So when I heard this "tick" sound I figured lifter tick was back (same lifters) but getting to ~200 miles after the build it was getting worse. When 300 miles came along it was bad. At 350 miles it became a loud knocking sound, something was going really wrong. So I parked her. Started the car and revved it while in the engine bay and the sound was pretty obvious on the top side of the engine but could not pinpoint it, at idle everything sounded great, but revving above 2500 rpm's something was definately wrong. So I had a friend come over and had him rev it up while i listened underneath the car.... It sounded like something was about to knock the oil pan completely off!! Ok that was a little dramatic, but the sound was horrible under there. I shut it off and began to tear the engine out.
I will have to post more pictures of the rod bearings. #2 was pretty worn out and got toasty.
The main bearings were the worst.
Here's the cap side:
And here is the block side:
Now in conclusion the bse kit had everything there that i needed. And not observing there was no oil groove in the stub shaft, i put it all together. I am still THINKING that this is what caused my problem. There is definately oil starvation to all main bearings.
This is an example of a kit that I SHOULD of bought (MAPerformance):
Now I still need to update a confirmation that the oil groove in the stub shaft does in fact directly relate to the oil galley feeding the main bearings. As of this moment I don't know for sure, but I will know and update soon.
This is just a warning to all who plan on going with the cheaper bse kits and the problems I have encountered with it.
Car history:
Timing belt snapped, so head was pulled and completely gone through with all new valves, seals, and seats. It was done by my local machine shop, cleaned, and milled as well. While that was all out, off, and apart I wanted to do the bse as well. I removed the rear shaft (closest to firewall) and replaced it with the stub shaft. The block was still in the car, and a big pain to work with so I ended up leaving the front shaft (closest to radiator) inside and just putting some loc-tite around everywhere on the oil pump gear to ensure it wouldn't move. I've read of a few people that have done this with no issues. So I had no need for the bearings or plug that came with the bse kit.
I did replace the oil pump with an ebay knock off as well. I had compared the old one to the new one side by side and they looked the same, other than the hole/spacer that the lower alternator bolt goes through. The new pump's hole/spacer was about 1/2" shorter than the stock one. So I got to looking and concluded that where the hole/spacer is located there is no oil passages behind there. So I simply cut the hole/spacer off of the new pump, as well as the old pump. So currently part of my block is showing that is not normally showing, and i just have a big cylinder spacer type piece for my lower alternator bolt. As of the day the car was parked and torn apart there was no leaks at all because of this, so i see no problem with what I did (other than the fact I should of just won the lottery and bought oem stuff
). And to top all this off the oil pressure gauge (stock) read normal.
So all in all there could be 2 reasons that these bearings failed. I am 99.999% sure that the bse kit that I put in there is the cause.
Again i'll come back and update this all tonight with better pictures, and start looking into the way the oil pump, and block distribute the oil. Then I will know 100% where the problem came from.
I have updated my profile and everything is current. The only things that changed from the broken timing belt are new timing belt, timing auto tensioner, oil pump, bse kit, arp head studs, all the head work, and head gasket.
I know this is all a little jumbled, and i'll be back tonight to revise it much better. If anyone has any better input, or more information on this please add it, or pm me and i'll add it. And now I noticed I need to resize some pictures and I will.
I've also looked and looked and have not found any threads or information regarding this product. Let me know if the information is already out there. Thanks!
So this is the kit that I bought.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
And after ~130 miles of driving I noticed a little tick. Now this car had lifter tick pretty bad before the BSE. After putting it all together there was lifter tick no more
So when I heard this "tick" sound I figured lifter tick was back (same lifters) but getting to ~200 miles after the build it was getting worse. When 300 miles came along it was bad. At 350 miles it became a loud knocking sound, something was going really wrong. So I parked her. Started the car and revved it while in the engine bay and the sound was pretty obvious on the top side of the engine but could not pinpoint it, at idle everything sounded great, but revving above 2500 rpm's something was definately wrong. So I had a friend come over and had him rev it up while i listened underneath the car.... It sounded like something was about to knock the oil pan completely off!! Ok that was a little dramatic, but the sound was horrible under there. I shut it off and began to tear the engine out. I will have to post more pictures of the rod bearings. #2 was pretty worn out and got toasty.
The main bearings were the worst.
Here's the cap side:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
And here is the block side:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now in conclusion the bse kit had everything there that i needed. And not observing there was no oil groove in the stub shaft, i put it all together. I am still THINKING that this is what caused my problem. There is definately oil starvation to all main bearings.
This is an example of a kit that I SHOULD of bought (MAPerformance):
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now I still need to update a confirmation that the oil groove in the stub shaft does in fact directly relate to the oil galley feeding the main bearings. As of this moment I don't know for sure, but I will know and update soon.
This is just a warning to all who plan on going with the cheaper bse kits and the problems I have encountered with it.
Car history:
Timing belt snapped, so head was pulled and completely gone through with all new valves, seals, and seats. It was done by my local machine shop, cleaned, and milled as well. While that was all out, off, and apart I wanted to do the bse as well. I removed the rear shaft (closest to firewall) and replaced it with the stub shaft. The block was still in the car, and a big pain to work with so I ended up leaving the front shaft (closest to radiator) inside and just putting some loc-tite around everywhere on the oil pump gear to ensure it wouldn't move. I've read of a few people that have done this with no issues. So I had no need for the bearings or plug that came with the bse kit.
I did replace the oil pump with an ebay knock off as well. I had compared the old one to the new one side by side and they looked the same, other than the hole/spacer that the lower alternator bolt goes through. The new pump's hole/spacer was about 1/2" shorter than the stock one. So I got to looking and concluded that where the hole/spacer is located there is no oil passages behind there. So I simply cut the hole/spacer off of the new pump, as well as the old pump. So currently part of my block is showing that is not normally showing, and i just have a big cylinder spacer type piece for my lower alternator bolt. As of the day the car was parked and torn apart there was no leaks at all because of this, so i see no problem with what I did (other than the fact I should of just won the lottery and bought oem stuff
). And to top all this off the oil pressure gauge (stock) read normal. So all in all there could be 2 reasons that these bearings failed. I am 99.999% sure that the bse kit that I put in there is the cause.
Again i'll come back and update this all tonight with better pictures, and start looking into the way the oil pump, and block distribute the oil. Then I will know 100% where the problem came from.
I have updated my profile and everything is current. The only things that changed from the broken timing belt are new timing belt, timing auto tensioner, oil pump, bse kit, arp head studs, all the head work, and head gasket.
I know this is all a little jumbled, and i'll be back tonight to revise it much better. If anyone has any better input, or more information on this please add it, or pm me and i'll add it. And now I noticed I need to resize some pictures and I will.
I've also looked and looked and have not found any threads or information regarding this product. Let me know if the information is already out there. Thanks!
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