BSE Gone wrong?

[Psyclone]

So, I was changing out my timing components and decided that this was as good a time as any to do the BSE. I got as far as removing the front BS bearings and noticed that the transmission is leaking oil from the front driver side axle. I jacked the engine back up and the leak stopped, lowered it back down and it started again. To make matters worse, I still can't get the bearings out. (tried tapping them with a hammer and screw driver and all it did was tear it up, but its still in there.)

So, question 1. Is it likely just an axle seal that needs to be replaced? If so, how difficult is it?

question 2. does any one know a good way to get the BS bearings out?

any help is appreciated. Thanks

 

[Xo4TSi]

The shop manual says you need some special tool to remove the BS Bearings but I and I'm sure many others used the BS itself, since you'll be eliminating it you don't have to worry about damaging it any (although keep metal shaving to a minimum of course). Just rest the BS on the edges of the bearing and tap it out, start with the closest then the furthest.

 

[Twinturbo120]

The shop manual says you need some special tool to remove the BS Bearings but I and I'm sure many others used the BS itself, since you'll be eliminating it you don't have to worry about damaging it any (although keep metal shaving to a minimum of course). Just rest the BS on the edges of the bearing and tap it out, start with the closest then the furthest.

This. I might add, be sure to get all the little metal flakes out. If not, you WILL damage the engine. Just use an air gun and blow it out. Haha, get it? Blow it out...

 

[born2tune]

I would consider pulling the engine out. You are not too far from this because its not that much work considering the importance of doing the BSE properly to prevent extra work. You dont need a special tool to remove the bearings, I used the balance shaft's body it self to pop the bearings out and a rubber mallet to tap the realigned ones in. Assuming you have read any BSE write up you know you want to cover the Balance shaft oil ports (with the old bearings or new ones) and then mod the OFH.

I know you may have been looking for a short cut method but there is no way for you to ensure everything has been done properly without pulling the engine out.

 

[SpiderGST]

You can actually flip the balance shaft and use it to knock out the bearings. This is all written up on the vfaq.com site very useful.

 

[GSX77901]

U can also use a 32 mm socket.

 

[born2tune]

U can also use a 32 mm socket.

Not accurate. because different socket manufacturers makes 32mm sockets with difference outer circumferences so you might want to specify what brand socket too, for those who chose this option.

 

[idkiliketurbos]

Jafromobile has a great instructional video on how to do this on youtube. I will be following that video this winter when I do mine.

 

[Timechg]

Removing the engine is much more work (in my opinion) just to do a balance shaft elimination. You just need to remove several engine mounts, prop the engine with a hydraulic jack (make sure you put a large flat wooden board to not dent the oil pan), or if you have an engine hoist just use that to lower/raise the engine in the bay.

You should be able to get the engine low enough to remove the front case with the balance shaft. Installing the bearing will be much more difficult than removing it (unless you have the right bearing tool).

Just replace the axle shaft seal if you are unsure. I am coming up with little to no reason it would be something else leaking (unless your transmission bell housing is cracked) when you jack up the car.

 

[Psyclone]

I would consider pulling the engine out. You are not too far from this because its not that much work considering the importance of doing the BSE properly to prevent extra work. You dont need a special tool to remove the bearings, I used the balance shaft's body it self to pop the bearings out and a rubber mallet to tap the realigned ones in. Assuming you have read any BSE write up you know you want to cover the Balance shaft oil ports (with the old bearings or new ones) and then mod the OFH.

I know you may have been looking for a short cut method but there is no way for you to ensure everything has been done properly without pulling the engine out.

mod the OFH? I am using the VFAQ but I didn't see anything about OFH.

 

[genegoesfast]

I think he's referring to porting the pressure relief valve to bring oil pressure back down after completing the BSE.

 

[born2tune]

I think he's referring to porting the pressure relief valve to bring oil pressure back down after completing the BSE.

Correct, I have not gone through a vfaq or how-to on it so I wasn't aware it was not included as part of the task.

 

[JayB12]

I have actually done the bse with the motor still in the car, but if I had to do another I would take the motor out. It's a pain. The hardest part is getting that rear bearing back in. As far as a 22mm socket, I used the impact socket that is sold at advanced (autocraft?) Perfect fit. Other than that I also used the old front shaft which was previously recommended.

As far as porting the OFH there is a good write up here on the forums. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/319342-oil-pressure-relief-valve-porting.html
It's probably better to port less than that in the thread and do more later, rather than taking too much off and needing another OFH, at least that is what I did. I've also heard of people cutting the spring down as well.

 

[Psyclone]

Is there any chance of harming the engine if it's not ported?

 

[Psyclone]

OK, update time. Finally got the time to start finishing the BS removal process. Got the bearings out using the balance shaft. Put the new bearings in using the balance shaft, blew out the engine, sealed it back up, added oil, no leaks. Every things good... right? Not so fast, realized I forgot to put that stupid bolt in baffle plate that goes below the crank back in.

So, will the engine run fine without the baffle plate? (running Valvoline VR-1 10W-30) Waiting to crank the engine until some more knowledgeable people chime in.

Thanks

 

[bagabonesgsx]

I wouldnt pull the engine, just use the balance shafts bigger end and you will figure it out, as for the trans seal, it WILL leak if pressure is centralized to one area/side of the seal.. I will say that this is much easier when the engine is out!

 

[Psyclone]

Ok, seems it's called a windage plate, and is not totally necessary, just a good idea.

 

[EMX5636]

Edit- Re-Read and nevermind.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

It isn't really needed but if you have time I'd reinstall it. Like you said its just a windage try to keep any oil from splashing on the crank

 

[EMX5636]

It isn't really needed but if you have time I'd reinstall it. Like you said its just a windage try to keep any oil from splashing on the crank

Actually opposite usually. Keeps the wind from the spinning crank from blowing the oil against the block/pan wall and away from the pickup. But most cars don't have them. You could run w/o it. But next oil change you might as well drop the pan and throw it in.

 

[Psyclone]

Actually opposite usually. Keeps the wind from the spinning crank from blowing the oil against the block/pan wall and away from the pickup. But most cars don't have them. You could run w/o it. But next oil change you might as well drop the pan and throw it in.

That was my plan exactly. I am also going to have to redo the front CV boots soon to. So I will proly make a weekend out of it or something.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Actually opposite usually. Keeps the wind from the spinning crank from blowing the oil against the block/pan wall and away from the pickup. But most cars don't have them. You could run w/o it. But next oil change you might as well drop the pan and throw it in.

Yeah your right sorry guessing I was confusing myself with oil pan baffle. Which i know is used to keep oil from sloshing. Guess I mixed up things in my head

 

[born2tune]

I wouldn't run my engine w/o it. It can potentially be a problem with your engines performance physics. Obviously it will start, run and drive but are you sure you want to try to do without?

 

[Psyclone]

Another update. I finished every thing up today and tried to crank it. It won't start, it rolls over and the starter is spinning it up, but I get no ignition. It's like trying to crank the engine with the coil unplugged. I didn't finish up till after dark so maybe I missed something and didn't see it in the dark? Any way, any ideas suggestions?

 

[zachwilliams02]

Well crank sensor and cam sensor congroll spark on the engine. As well as the transistor pack shock is the rectangle pwice next to the coils. One mistake that I made once is that the crank sensor has the same plug as the air conditioning so make sure yoy didn't swap those on accident pull the plugs and see if it has spark. If it does hook up a multi meter or a test light to injector wires. That is all troubleshooting I ever do and it works 90 percent of the time