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Broken banjo bolt question

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BLOHS7844

10+ Year Contributor
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Oct 25, 2011
Appleton, Wisconsin
I was warned not to tighten the banjo bolt for my oil supply line on my head too much because it might strip. I initially didn't replace the crush washers because im retarded but I eventually got them. I tightened the bolt reasonably tight. Not over tight but it was snug. I turned on the car it and it was leaking so I tightened it just a little more and it was still leaking. This went on a couple times and eventually oil started to shoot out because the bolt snapped. Is it possible that the bolt had a small crack to begin with so thats why it kept leaking? Should I order a new one online or auto parts store? Thx in advance
 
Wait a minute.

Did you strip the Bolt thread (which I don't think so), or did you damaged the head thread?.
The bolt thread is stronger then the aluminum (head), if you tight that up to much, you will end up damaging the head thread, If this is the case, then you need to recoil the thread in the head.
 
I would check the thread on the head as stated above, the threads on the bolt are much stronger than on the head (aluminum). If it is indeed the bolt that is the issue, it would not hurt to run a tap through the port to clean up the threads though.
 
The bolt head snapped off. Somewhat jagged, not a clean cut, so to speak.

The threads are still in the head, and a jagged piece is hanging out (maybe pliers?) As far as I know, the aluminum threads aren't damaged. I've stripped and helicoiled a couple threads already so I know the aluminum threads like to fail first.

I would like to run a tap through the threads just to be sure. If I remove the valve cover, do I even have access to the supply to block metal shavings?

I'm kinda concerned that it never actually sealed before it broke. It felt plenty tight to seal so if wasn't cracked then idk why it wouldn't seal. If it was cracked would that be the reason it didn't seal. Thanks for your replies and thanks again in advance. I really appreciate your help!
 
If the threads look good i wouldn't run a tap thru that. A tap will remove material and likely it in the oil passage. A thread chaser would be a better idea if the threads are messed up at all. You will not have access with the valve cover off. I would just see if the new bolt threads in well and if so not worry about it.
 
ohhh that's actually a good idea with the magnet. The bolt looks to be intact tho and I don't know how I'm gonna get it out...

Use an easy-out. Since the banjo has a hole already drilled through the center you should have an easy time working it back out.
 
Yeah I'll have to take a pic. My one fear with drilling is if I didn't get every bit of the metal shavings out then they are set up to feed right into my turbo. The bolt should be lubed up good because it an oil line so ill try with a channel locks again tomorrow and then take a pic before doing anything else.
 
As Jimmy was saying, since the banjo already has a hole through the middle, at that point an easy out doesn't require additional drilling. Just pick one that fits, give the end a tap with a SMALL hammer and twist lefty loosey.

I hate easy outs though, they are an absolute last resort on my list. How far out does it stick out?
 

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If it is indeed the bolt that is the issue, it would not hurt to run a tap through the port to clean up the threads though.
It won't hurt a thing....at least not until you start the engine with the oil line hooked up again, and all of the crud from the tap passing through the threads that was stuffed into the oil galley gets pushed directly into the turbo. :|



Banjo bolts are hollow with a hole drilled through the top just below the hex- they're about 1% as strong as a solid bolt of equal size. If you over-tighten them, they stretch at the hole until they break. The good news is that if they do break, a bolt extractor often removes the threads quite easily without the need to drill (remember, they're hollow) unless the bolt was cross-threaded into the head because once the hex is broken off the bolt there is no longer any stress on the threads. You can practically wind the remaining threads out with your fingers if you can get to it easily enough.

Due to the bolt's weak design, it's actually a great deal weaker than even the aluminum threads in the head itself. Unless you cross-thread the bolt, it's nearly impossible to strip the threads in the head to the point of needing re-tapped from just over-tightening a banjo bolt. The bolt will break before the threads give up the fight.
 
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Use an easy-out. Since the banjo has a hole already drilled through the center you should have an easy time working it back out.

2x on this.

To the OP.

Since you have a peace of bolt inside, you will be good with an easy-out.
If you end up recoiling, take off the front plug and use 1 or 2 bottles of Carburator Cleaner to dry all the oil inside the oil gallery, drying all the oil will prevent from debris to get stack inside and will be very easy to remove, just use some Q-tip with grease and it will get everything that is in there, use 3 or 4 Q-tips to get all clean...
 
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