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Broken Accufab throttle bodies???

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actually, I have had pretty good luck with my accufab / mustang style throttle body. It has provisions for a ISC, and well, every throttle body on an EFI car will have provisions for a TPS, thats just a given! I suppose you could try using the gm throttlebody, although if you are going to do that, why not just use the mustang style one?

Either way you will most likely want to use the AEM EMS, or similar standalone to controll it sucessfully.
 
I'm hoping dsmlink can tackle the job. Already went through the hassle of getting my 1g equiped with it.
Yea the LS1 throttle body was just a thought. Not to mention I already have one sitting on the shelf.
It sucks cause aside from this thread there isnt much to offer information wise on getting this stuff to work.

If I can get away with any 75mm 87-93? mustang throttle body, so be it. I just want my car to idle. I guess I need to research more. :(
 
DSMLink has no external outputs, or non stock Idle air controlls. Unless the IAC unit is exactly like the stock one (wiring, polarity and voltage) you can pretty much kiss your IAC goodbye with dsmlink. I know dsmlink has provisions for a ford tps, not sure about a gm one. ford tps is 0-5v if thats of any help to you. the ford tb (accufab one that i have) has a throttle plate screw and it will idle nicely at 1k with out any iac controlls.

sorry for the shitty grammer in my post im superbusy with homework right now
 
DSMlink has both scale and offset adjustments for TPS input. I run a NT TB so I still use the DSM TPS personally. I've been running without an ISC all season and have had no trouble. No FIAV either, two fewer things to go wrong, and fewer coolant lines to spring a leak ;) I use the 1g TBs throttle closed switch to get idle in the ballpark, and the ISC makes finer changes. Though I did have a problem with one backing out so I screwed it in tight and said the hell with it.
 
Somebody said they saw the throttle body opening and smacking back down under compressor surge. I've noticed on my Accufab that the plate seems to be a lot more easy to open than my stock TB.

My question is has anyone tried using a stronger spring on the throttle body or even a helper spring to ain in holding it down?? Sounds like the actual twisting factor involved in smacking against the throttle body itself is a big problem. Maybe using a tighter spring of some sort will keep it from opening back up (under surge) and breaking. Any opinions?

I'd try it but mine isn't on yet.
 
That slapping back action you are reffering to sounds like a bunch of hogwallup. I have never had that happen with mine.

And yes the stock accufab spring is lighter than stock. I reccomend using a helper spring. That is what I do on mine.
 
UPDATE:

After breaking two throttle body shafts within 1 month and hanging up on tech support in EXTREME frustration (separate issue, I will discuss later. I have decided to make my own throttle body shaft.

I am in the process of designing and building a custom shaft that WONT break. It will be a slotted shaft, not a flimsy half shaft. So stay tuned for updates.

It definitely would have been nice had Tial had that spring selection guide available before, as I am sure that is a contributing factor.

I was at the track last night, and broke the throttle body shaft on my second run. In short, I drove home an hour, at 1am, picked up a spare Wilson's throttle body from my friends car, drove back down to the track, installed the throttle body, then drove home. Didn't end up getting home till about 5:30 this morning. What a fcuking nightmare.

Needless to say, the first thing I did this morning was call up Accufab. I had the throttle body rebuilt in December, and it just recently broke again in May. When I sent this back, they were actually pretty cool about it, and replaced it free of charge. I was shocked.

However this time, when I called them I got a different response.

Let it be noted that my throttle stop IS absolutely setup correctly. By the time the pedal is mashed to the floor (extremely mashed), the throttle body isn't even hitting its own stop.

On the phone now, I brought up all the facts just as I have presented to you all. It just seemed quite ridiculous that it should break within 1 month of having been replaced. The 'support' guy tried to tell me that because it was on a Mitsubishi, it was not being properly used, and therefore the product was abused. So rather than sit idly and let him tell me all the things that I did wrong, I threw it right back at him. Told him is shaft design sucked. Why they machine more than half the shaft away in the first place is beyond me. Never seen an OEM throttle body designed like that. He went on to say that My throttle cable is exerting too much torque on the shaft, because a Mitsubishi will exert more torque on the shaft than a mustang. Because, oh yes I forgot, a mustang cable and a Mitsubishi cable are completely different things... fcuking moron. Then he proceded to argue that since I abused the product, that I am not a customer. It was at that point that said, "your right, I'm not a customer anymore", and hung up on the asshole.

I swear, sometimes if you want something done right you really do have to do it yourself.

Sorry for the vent, but just thought I would keep you all updated. For those of you who do have accufab throttle bodys, I would reccomend the shaft that I am making, but I would like to test it more before I begin offering it to others.
 
As mentioned above, I am done with this garbage. I am making my own shaft. I seriously contemplated going back to a stock throttle body, but with the resources I have at my disposal, it would be easier to make a new shaft.

I have only heard about the infinity throttle body, but dont know much about it. Never really looked into it I guess. Who would have expected OEM throttle bodies to outlast aftermarket ones.
 
Thicker custom shaft will probably help you out there.

Did you get a chance to measure the Accufab shaft?

I personally would just port the hell out of a stock TB and sacrifice the bigger Accufab 3mm blade for the thicker more stable Mitsubishi shaft. My ported TB is 66.5 mm.
 
My accufab butterfly plate is 75 mm. In any case, thats not why I am posting back. I have done a write up on my website about this whole fiasco. Including the solution. Yep, my custom made throttle body shaft is finished, and I will be installing it tomorrow.

my page is:
http://dvdtfab.com

and the direct link to the write up is:
http://dvdtfab.com/accufabsucks.htm

Feedback is always welcome. Thanks for the space.
 
GRNDSM said:
Albert, is that a sharp 90 deg angle the base of their flat cut? Talk about stress concentration... Is that where it was braking?

I also noticed that you didn’t make the same mistake :). Nice job!

You bet it was. That was one thing, I did not yet get to discuss in my little write up I did on my site. I wanted to do a bit more research on this before I began discussing it further.

The build up of stress in a sharp corner vs a radiused one. Don't think I machined that new shaft that way because it looks pretty.

Thanks, its been two weeks now, so I think its safe to assume that this one isn't going to break. ROFL
 
thats pretty cool someone is actually making a stronger TB shaft. i was thinking of asking a machinist to make one so ill feel safer driving with the mustang TB. and i was also wondering if its possible or even not to pricey to make a shaft out of a stronger material like titanium.

sleeper142 i am definatly interested in your project. if you can make a couple of these i would definatly buy one from you. :thumb:
 
FYI:

They are forsale. And in fact, I am so mad at accufab, I am selling these things at cost, as a service to the dsm community. I will rebuild your Accufab throttle body, for $75, which is exactly what Accufab charges.
 
In case it is not too late for some of us, this is the email reply I got back from them after inquiring about a revised model Mustang throttle body, "WE'LL EXCHANGE IT, HOWEVER, IT MUST BE RECEIVED BY ACCUFAB IN PERFECT CONDITION/UNUSED/NEVER BOLTED ON, NO BOLT MARKS! IF YOUR PRODUCT MEETS THIS CRITERIA, WE'LL SEND YOU A NEW ONE WITH THE UPGRADED SHAFT. PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR NAME, ADDRESS, PHONE # AND CREDIT CARD INFORMATION FOR SHIPPING COSTS."

Jay White
 
poorboyj said:
In case it is not too late for some of us, this is the email reply I got back from them after inquiring about a revised model Mustang throttle body, "WE'LL EXCHANGE IT, HOWEVER, IT MUST BE RECEIVED BY ACCUFAB IN PERFECT CONDITION/UNUSED/NEVER BOLTED ON, NO BOLT MARKS! IF YOUR PRODUCT MEETS THIS CRITERIA, WE'LL SEND YOU A NEW ONE WITH THE UPGRADED SHAFT. PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR NAME, ADDRESS, PHONE # AND CREDIT CARD INFORMATION FOR SHIPPING COSTS."

Jay White

do you have another link to your site? the one posted before isnt working for me, it asks me for a name and password :confused:
 
i just recieved an accufab 75mm throttle body from v-8power.com and it was at a great price. the thing that suprised me also was. the shaft is full. not cut in half like it used to be. its like the shafts you see one the dvdtfab website. and it doesnt need a wheel for the throttle cable since they hve a little plastic bracket attached to the stock bracket that has the hook ups for a throttle cable. could they be thinking of DSM's?
 
treebonker said:
does the new Acc TB have the CNC'd "SUCKS" emblem in it too? ROFL man I had a good laugh at that one. Seriuosly, the new one comes in one piece with the rounded edges and all ?

-treebonker


LOL, it just says accufab on the butterfly. yes the shaft looks just like the dvdt fab one. ill post pics when i get my buddies cam.
 
I beat the living piss out of my car for the rest of the season with my redesigned shaft. Ran anywhere between 36 and 41 lbs of boost past it without any problems.
 
Well it seems that Albert has made a working fix for the TB, that I don't doubt. But I'm wondering if the new redesigned Accufab shaft is working in our cars without breaking...it'd be nice to not have to spend another $75 to rebuild a brand new TB. I mean if that's the only way to fix the TB then I'm willing to spend the extra money, but someone said that the new design looks just like DV/DT FAB's so it should work now right? Anyone with first hand experience?
 
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