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Brembo brakes, Tein suspension and AXIS wheels installed at once.

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bmxunderground

15+ Year Contributor
217
4
Dec 11, 2007
Bowling Green, Kentucky
I was pretty pumped to be able to have patience enough to wait until I bought all the parts at once before I installed anything. I don't have anyone to share the excitement with so hopefully this general section is ok for me to post this in. I'll have the full pictorial attached to my profile soon for anyone interested in the story. My one day swap from completely OEM and dirty to a complete aftermarket setup. Wheels, tires, brakes & lines & performance fluids, suspension, bushings, tie rods and camber adjustment kits.. :rocks::rocks::rocks:
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Those were pics of it on the jack stands. When its off its actually too low. My sideskirts are about 2 to 3 inches off the ground :( so I need to raise it up a little.
 
That's crazy that you changed brake setups so quickly. Sounds like you're happy with the end result so it all works out. Clean car too.
 
I promise to put up more pics but I want to get the writing all done first. I forgot to mention in my first post that I used the JDM galant steering knuckles on the front for them to bolt on. I'll have pics of that. I also had new 95' non abs rear knuckles installed cause they were a few ounces lighter. I got the knuckles from a user on this site: mitsumissle he got them to me in like 3 days from overseas I was pretty impressed considering my Tein suspension took 20 days to get here from Jersey. I got lucky on almost everything I bought man and i'm sooo lucky I think heres the run down of my cost:

68.00 set of 4 18'' axis sevens (needed new coating on one)
260.00 over nighted a set of 18'' tires
30.00 earls stainless steel brake lines
413.00 galant knuckles
30.00 rear 95' non abs knuckles
280.00 drilled slotted evo rotors
80.00 brake pads
450.00 Tein basic coilovers
400.00 front and rear Evo calipers
25.00 front camber kit
5.00 rear camber kit
90.00 knuckle bushings + other misc
18.00 tie rod end
40.00 wheel spacers
free synthetic brake fluid w/other purchase
70.00 rear disc brake conversion (since I had drums)

TOTAL: $2,259.00


I think fair retail for all of these things would be just over $5,000.00 all I can say is that patience pays off. When I get this stuff posted i'll show you stage two, three and four which are exterior, interior and engine bay which i'll have spent the same or a little more. I'm pretty excited to have soon the most built eclipse in 100 mile radius i'd say.

What about the calipers?
 
Yea I know its crazy, I was thinking that when I was doing all the buying. I just didn't want to have any doubts ya know? like "what if" I spent just 400 more or "what if" whatever.. the list was endless. In the end though, I knew I wanted something bigger in the rear too and a matching set would be perfect so this falling in my lap was great. Wait till I get the pics of the whole set up. In these pics it doesn't show where I went in, stripped the wheel wells and re coated the surface so everthing looks brand spankin new.

I'll say though, not having a girlfriend makes it a lot easier to spend money on the car :thumb: and just for the record, I choose to stay single I just keep good company as seen below:sneaky:

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I apologize for the shameless social plug
 
here are some more pics from the project after I finished. Sorry so late :(

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Looking at them from this angle lets you see how f-ing big these guys are

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I made this Dual 1 man bleeder to help quickly get the job done

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this picture shows you that you don't have to cut the old guard off the OEM disc set up, you can just use a mallet and the flat iron portion of a vice to make a nice dust sheild. Looks fine, and could be perfect with about five more minutes of pounding.
 

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i'm not surprised it stops better. you've moved the brake bias to the rear by almost 5%.

given:
line pressure= 500psi
pad mu= 0.45u (EBC greenstuff is about 0.45, redstuff and yellowstuff are marginally higher)

hydraulic bias F/R:

EVO= 4274lbs/1930lbs
TSi= 4372/1490

brake torque F/R @500psi line pressure:

EVO= 851 ft/lbs/363 ft/lbs
TSi= 729 ft/lbs/255 ft/lbs

overall bias:
EVO= 70.6%/29.4%
TSi= 74%/26%

now, bear in mind none of these calculations take into account the stock proportioning valves on either vehicle since i don't have the specs for those. but based on the system design, i'd be willing to bet that the EVO's proportioning valve limits rear line pressure more than the TSi's does, since the EVO already has quite a bit of rear brake bias. i'm also guessing that the reason the EVO has more rear bias is due to the fact that you WANT the rear brakes to come on stronger than the fronts (proportional to weight distribution under braking) because the rear brakes help keep the car stable, up until they lock up. the EVO's prop valve likely allows for more rear brake bias up until a couple hundred PSI line pressure, then it limits the rears a lot more than the TSi's proportioning valve does, since most of the brake bias on the TSi is achieved via the hydraulics and lever arms of the rotors.

what i'm saying is that i hope you installed the EVO's proportioning valve to go with those calipers/rotors, or you may be in for a nasty surprise when it rains. i'm not saying it'll be dangerous for sure, but it definitely warrants investigating due to the degree that you've altered the system dynamics.

if you happen to have the prop valve specs for either, or both, i'd be happy to recalculate all the above.


i do find this discussion interesting though, and the reason i've calculated all that is because i was considering the EVO/STi calipers for a BBK on my MR2, but the MR2 uses a very retarded sliding rear caliper with the parking brake built-in and i'd have to stick with the stock rear calipers to retain the e-brake. given that fact, the EVO/STi calipers (they're the same, save for maybe the crossover tubes/bleeders swapped depending on which is leading and which is trailing) pistons increase front clamping force too much to recover even if i totally removed the proportioning valve. i'm probably going to end up using a set of porsche 996 monoblocs on the front with the toyota supra rotors and move up to the MR2 spyder rear calipers (bigger pistons, same e-brake design) riding on rav4 front rotors used as rears and an adjustable prop valve to get the bias where i want it.

i don't think i could use the EVO rear calipers anyway, since the MR2 (being rear-weight biased) needs more initial rear brake bias than the EVO calipers can offer hydraulically. that's why mid-engined cars stop so short- the added weight on the rear wheels makes use of the rear tires more so than any front-engined car can. hell, the USCC MR2 from a few years back did 60-0 in line 95 feet on stock 93turbo rotors/calipers and upgraded pads .


another thing you can look into to make the brakes feel better is finding a larger master cylinder from an SUV or something that's physically able to bolt into your car. i haven't done any research on compatible units for DSMs, but my MR2 is running a MC from a 4Runner, which moves it from 7/8" bore to 1 1/16" bore. the pedal is 100% firmer (it actually feels like the formula cars i've driven, which is what i was going for). not only that, but since it moves more fluid, there's less chance for pad knockback on the track, and even if the pads go a little soft, the pedal stays a LOT more consistent over long runs.

worth a look, IMO.
 
I do have to admit, I purchased this brake setup originally for aesthetic purposes. The car, once out of the paint shop, will NEVER see rain though, I can promise you that. Sunny days or clear nights only. I did read a bit about changing the master cylinder and the proportioning valves on the distribution block, but as of now, it handles much better than anything i'll need so I'm not going to get into it again. I may purchase the parts and just give them to whoever buys it from me later. Thanks for all of the information, my head is kinda still spinning from reading LOL. I'll print it out though and put it in the cars binder. Thanks!
 
PS: The tube you see in post #22 picture 3 is just my intake tube, loose and haning in an awkward way. I actually made custom fiberglass brake coolers you will see later :D

in the meantime, heres a pic of the car I put the brakes on and in the background, you can see the car I drive daily, which is also in my avatar.

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You would think it wouldn't be that hard to get in enough posts to become a proven memeber but AAAHHHH the site is too good! I can't find any information to contribute hardly!!! So I hope i'm not violating any of the rules by asking someone here if they know where i can get some windows for my naked car here huh? Glass company sent me a quote and if I remember right, the total was: one Arm + one leg :cry::cry::cry:
 
My junkyard is a no go. They won't take the windows out for you, you have to do it, and I obviously messed that up twice in a row! LOL. I need some new ones.
 
I promise you, if you want something bad enough, you will get the money up quick. I never knew how much money added up until I quit wasting and started saving. I quick drinking anything but water (free) quit going out to eat and just had little stuff at home. Quit taking girls on dates! haha, and waited for the absolute best deals on clothing if i needed any and ended up saving enough money for everything I bought here pretty quickly, just under two months. Worth it to me? you better believe it!! :rocks:
 
I know its been awhile, but here are a few more pics. I've been working on all three of my N/A's and have just been waiting to finish them to post all pics.

P.S. Don't hate on the body kit, 1 of 3 has to have something loud done to it :D

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Forgot I discontinued the website hosting those photos, If you need them email me. I'll try to get them back up in the next few days.
 
got a few of the pics back up (thanks photobucket) if anyone needs something else please ask. I have probably 80 pictures :D
 
I just posted the prices that I paid. I got really great deals on most of my parts. A good camber kit for the rear may be 50.00 and up alone. the fronts all vary in price depending on how they are made and who is selling them.
 
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