Brass shavings in oil filter!!

[8urv8]

I have quite a bit of brass shaving's that came out of my oil filter when I changed the oil today. They are brass in color which lead me to believe that it's bearing material. There is no knocking coming from the motor or anything so I'm kinda at a loss right now. What should I do? Drop the oil pan, check everything and replace all the main and rod bearings? All of your input is greatly appreciated.

 

[phillabaum03]

could be your bearings, but I dont believe their made of brass. ha. If you have the knowledge and time you could get a jumpstart and change the bearings, also make sure your crank isnt all messed up. You can change your rod bearings, but not mains without taking the crank out I dont believe. I just changed all my bearings in my motor due to a spun rod bearing but my crank was f'd so I had to pull the motor, and rebuild it. Good luck man

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I have quite a bit of brass shaving's that came out of my oil filter when I changed the oil today. They are brass in color which lead me to believe that it's bearing material. There is no knocking coming from the motor or anything so I'm kinda at a loss right now. What should I do? Drop the oil pan, check everything and replace all the main and rod bearings? All of your input is greatly appreciated.

At that point, yes, I would pull the pan and at least check the rods for play and inspect the bearings. If you're lucky, you may have caught the symptoms early.

 

[8urv8]

To pull the pan, what do I need to do? Remove the downpipe, transfer case and then just remove the fastener's and pull the pan off? Thanks in advance guys.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

To pull the pan, what do I need to do? Remove the downpipe, transfer case and then just remove the fastener's and pull the pan off? Thanks in advance guys.

downpipe, transfer case, flywheel inspection plate, oil return line and a million oil pan bolts.

 

[8urv8]

This really sucks. I'm so stressed out about this whole deal and I'm contemplating just trading the car in so I don't have to deal with it but I know that's not the right thing to do. I really, really hope the bearings just need to be replaced. Changing the oil and finding shavings is something I hoped I never would have to deal with. Should I get a plasti-gauge or whatever those things are called to check the clearance so I can order the right bearings? I've never have done anything like this before.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Dude, you have no idea. I spent 3 grand rebuilding my car this past winter and I spun a bearing mid summer, so yea, I know how much it sucks. Bottom line is, if you can pull the engine out and assemble your own engine, you will only be out about 1000 to rebuild it. First things first, though, pull the oil pan and inspect the rods.

 

[8urv8]

So what exactly do you have to measure with the plastigauge? The thickness of the bearing?

 

[dsmmatt28]

Dude, you have no idea. I spent 3 grand rebuilding my car this past winter and I spun a bearing mid summer, so yea, I know how much it sucks. Bottom line is, if you can pull the engine out and assemble your own engine, you will only be out about 1000 to rebuild it. First things first, though, pull the oil pan and inspect the rods.

Damn Im in your same boat a little worse. This is my 3rd spun bearing. different crank block and pistions everytime. Same cylinder!!!! This time Im going to have the motor balanced new oil pump, oil filter housing and oil cooler. I thinking that I have a oil pressue issiue. The machine shop gave me warranty the last 2times Each time it was the same cyinder. I dont know WTF. Im glad I can work on it on my own cause otherwise Id be F###.

So as for this thread. Man just drop the oil pan Transfer case crossmember bar then Oil the oil pan bolts, exhaust. The bolts right behind the cv axle are little a tricky. Your going to have to loosen the cv axle a little to get to them. Also there is one 10mm bolt that holds the oil pan up its the shortest one, it goes in the same spot when you put it back. It is short for a reason, if you notice that it is right below where the timing belt is. Mitsu designed it short so that it doesnt rub against the timing belt. Use only silicon on oil pan dont tighten the bolt real tight you will cause oil leak like that. I just snug them. THE SILICON MUST DRY BEFORE YOU START THE CAR. I usally let it dry at least 2 hours I have left it over night before I start the car. Its up to you.

 

[anteversion]

So what exactly do you have to measure with the plastigauge? The thickness of the bearing?

plasti gage is used to mesure the gap between 2 pieces. you don'T need this to do a check up on rod and main bearings. just look at them and you will see easily if they are scored or chipped.

 

[RipperXX]

Don't they actually make oil pan gaskets? I'm pretty sure they do, so why use silicon? Just seems silly to me if theres a gasket out there for it.

 

[anteversion]

Don't they actually make oil pan gaskets? I'm pretty sure they do, so why use silicon? Just seems silly to me if theres a gasket out there for it.

it have gasket but it never work great because of the shape of the oil pan . and this gasket is constantly in conctact with oil when the car is not running. Anyway mitsu and all other brand always put some gasket silicone between pan and gasket. and just putting alittle more silicone without a gasket is even better.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

it have gasket but it never work great because of the shape of the oil pan . and this gasket is constantly in conctact with oil when the car is not running. Anyway mitsu and all other brand always put some gasket silicone between pan and gasket. and just putting alittle more silicone without a gasket is even better.

There is NO gasket from OE. CAPS specifies that RTV is to be used at the oil pan. IMO RTV works a hell of a lot better and those felt gaskets cannot stand up to the abuse. Just make sure both surfaces are dry, let the RTV tact before you put the final torque, and let the RTV cure for AT LEAST 24 hours before you fill with oil.

 

[dsmmatt28]

blackspoolin did you ever figure your spun rod bearing and why it did that. Im doing a whole new rebuild. AGAIN Im tired of spun rod bearings. I dont know wtf. Im using a new machine shop this time around. This is getting expensive. Im bout to go pull a 6bolt again to have a foundation to start with again. New pistons and rods balanced crank. Im having the machine shop assemble the short block. I hope I dont spin another bearing. If I do i wll sell the car . Did you port your oil relief valve? Whats your oil pressure gauge telling you. After I ported mine i was a little more that 10psi per rpm that I was at. Im thinking though maybe it was not enough at over 7k rpm Usallly when Im at past 7k rpm I dont have enough time to look down at the oil pressure gauge cause im looking at the road. Im fustrated at this point. I just ordered pistions and rods. Hope to have the block and all hardware at the machine shop by the end of next month. I used acl tri metals last time. Im doing to use 20w-50 oil this time.

 

[grantman10]

Sorry to revive this thread, but i just put a down payment on this car (the one the original post), and the car is currently at a dealer.

I think i am going to try to talk the dealer into further investigating a spun bearing, or soon to be spun bearing. As with any dealer, i don't think they are going to want to put much work into checking the bearings.

I live in Michigan, and the car is in Delaware. I am planning on being there Monday or Tuesday to check the car out and take it home, but i would be screwed if the car died on the way back.

I am just looking for any suggestions or anything. The dealer wants $5950 for the car, which is a fully built 97gsx GT30r 2.3l with the link. So im thinking the car is worth a rebuild at that price. Im just hoping the 4g64 crank isnt too gone to be machined.

What to do, what to do?

 

[grantman10]

So it turns out the car has gone 2k miles since the oil change that he found the brass shavings in, and the dealership just performed an oil change on it, and was told (by fellow dsmer dale187) to keep the oil so it can be examined, but i need to see if they really kept it.

2k since the shavings, i think that i might try to drive this thing home (850 mi). I dont plan on driving this thing until the snow is gone. But if i can get it home me and my friend will drop the oil pan and check shit out.

If there is starting to be bearing failure and i do get it home, how bad do you think it could be? Of course there is no way to know for sure, but any guesses are welcome. I need to start saving up.

 

[matthewdesigns]

Shavings in the oil are not good at any time, especially if you are buying out of state, from a dealer, and driving 850 miles home. I would pass on the car unless the dealer can prove beyond a doubt that the bearings are OK, both crank and balance shaft (if it has one). Tell them to put it on a lift and drop the pan while you are there to prove it's OK. If not, and you must have the car, then get a warranty on the motor, and a voucher for 850 miles of towing.

I replied to a thread the other day about a 2.3L built car at a dealer with shavings in the oil and "light" knock, but I can't find it right now, not even in my "find all posts search"...weird. If it's the same car, you are likely to be needing a rebuild soon.