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Shavings in oil pan

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1998gstmaniac

15+ Year Contributor
45
0
Sep 18, 2004
boyds, Maryland
well a few days ago my clutch went out on me and i just got that put back together and i go to start the car, it starts but there is a loud knocking coming from the engine bay area, so i try to pin point the knock but i couldn't...at idle it would knock maybe three or four times then go away for a second or two then come back...but when you tap on the gas its was a constant knocking(loud as hell)....so i drove the car back into my garage which is no more than twenty feet away and decide to take the oil pan off...wow when i got it off it scared the living crap outta me...there are metal shaving everywhere, most off it was glitter sized until i stuck my finger in the little pool off oil in the bottom of the oil pan and brought up big pieces of shaving (they are copper and steel shaving)...what do you guys think i should do or what do you think is the problem?
 
Unfortunately that motor sounds like it cant be fixed.If theres metal floating around in your engine you are done.

Sorry for the bad news.
Time to find a 6 bolt.
 
HHIVR4 said:
Sorry for the bad news.



x2

Those are pieces of your bearings floating around. If you want to drop your pan and pull your rod caps, you will probably get a Viola! Sorry.
MB
 
Sounds like a spun bearing to me. Whats with all these 7 bolts spinning bearings? Samething happened to me at the track. I took the 6 bolt route now.
 
I have a 1991 Talon TSI with similar problem. Found the front balance shaft bearing chewed up. Now the engine is coming out to rebuild the bottom end without balance shaft. Will balance the crank, rods, pistons, and flywheel. 146,000 miles on engine, its time for the rebuild.
 
400HP1GT said:
I have a 1991 Talon TSI with similar problem. Found the front balance shaft bearing chewed up. Now the engine is coming out to rebuild the bottom end without balance shaft. Will balance the crank, rods, pistons, and flywheel. 146,000 miles on engine, its time for the rebuild.
A good heat tanking, hone (or bore depending on damage) is in line. These motors with crappy maintanance do chew up bearings, not just the 7 bolt. A rebuild will work in both cases you just need to be sure to tank it to get all the shavings out.
Mike
 
I did not go into details. New pistons 20 over, will be tanked. The short block is being done by Cook Brothers in Cumberland Md.
 
Do you guys think the block is salvageable... also was wondering if anyone has ever gotten parts off of partsdinasaur.com im thinkin about goin .040 o/s and getting scat connecting rods...what do you think?
 
You have to find the source of the metal shavings. A spun main bearing is bad news. A spun rod bearing is fixable. Replace crankshaft, or turn down crankshaft journals. Replace connecting rods. Going 20 over on the pistons will save wall thickness for another rebuild. There is a balance shaft removal kit with the inserts to seal off the oil feed to the balance shaft. Remember to balance the rotating assembly. I do not make suggestions on what to buy. The work, and parts on my Talon was determined by information I have gathered by searching DSM forums. Good luck on your project. Speed cost money, how fast do you want to go?
 
I've decide to go the 6 bolt route. I'm gonna go with;
2g Pistons
1g Big rods
Clevite main and rod bearing
b/s elimination

I've already talked to a machine shop and they said that its gonna be $90 to do the machining for the 2g pistons. Thats why im going with this setup for now. The block is a N/T 6 bolt. When i went to the Junk yard i found 4, 6 bolt N/T long blocks and got them all so if anybody is lookin for a 6 bolt email or PM me.
 
Geez, I'm really sorry to hear that things went that way with your car also. My clutch went about a month ago so I put in an act2600 and fidanza flywheel, and I just spun a rod bearing as well. Good luck with your dsm, mine is in storage until March when I can pull the engine and build it up. Just think of the positives, now you and I both have an excuse to put some more potent internals in our engines :rolleyes: . Good luck.
-Andrew
 
1998gstmaniac said:
I've decide to go the 6 bolt route. I'm gonna go with;
2g Pistons
1g Big rods
Clevite main and rod bearing
b/s elimination

I've already talked to a machine shop and they said that its gonna be $90 to do the machining for the 2g pistons. .

Umm....what exactly are they going to do for $90? I just had my block done for $300, including wrist pin press (yes, he is the best in the area but...). I know I am up in Ct but the prices can't be that much different. A dip alone will run you $40 or so. What are they doing, just poppin' the holes for $22.50 a piece and that's it? I'm a little leary of the price and you having to pull the motor out again.
MB
 
1998gstmaniac said:
The guy at the machine shop is one of my dads friends, thats why it not that expensive, and he is one of the best in the area.
Ask him if he needs another friend :D . Good luck with the build.
MB
 
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