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2G Brake light won't turn off

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Jacolu3

Proven Member
638
131
Jan 31, 2015
Lake Grove, New York
So last weekend I went to the drag strip for some practice and was using my ebrake to preload the drivetrain. After my third run my ebrake light on the dash stayed on even with the brake down.
So I took apart the center console to check the switch for continuity and the switch on the hand brake seems to be working properly.
So then I checked the other side going toward the engine bay and I was getting continuity.
So I went in the engine bay and disconnected the plug going into the master cylinder.
I check the plug from the master and had no continuity
I then checked the other end of the plug going into the interior of the car and got continuity with the key turned on and the inside of the car unplugged.
I looked over the connection inside the engine and didn't see anything wrong with the wires I could see.

What should be my next step to trouble shoot this?
I'm not sure the path this wire takes from the engine bay into the inside of the car to trace out the wire further.
 
Did you check to make sure that your brake fluid is not low? And also check the sensor / wiring harness going to the reservoir for the brake fluid light sensor. I'm not sure if that is what you were referring to when you are talking about the wiring harness going to the master cylinder.
 
Did you check to make sure that your brake fluid is not low? And also check the sensor / wiring harness going to the reservoir for the brake fluid light sensor. I'm not sure if that is what you were referring to when you are talking about the wiring harness going to the master cylinder.

There is plenty of fluid in the master cylinder and the float and diapram is in good condition.
When I test the sensor I do not get continuity.
When I disconnect the sensor and check the other end (the connector that goes inside the cab) I get continuity from terminal to terminal and from terminal to ground.
 
Start by unplugging the switch at the e-brake handle, and also the sensor at the reservoir, if the light is still on then work from there.
 
Start by unplugging the switch at the e-brake handle, and also the sensor at the reservoir, if the light is still on then work from there.

I’ve done this as I started above. I don’t know the way the wire is routed in between the handle and the sensor reservoir. I’ve determined that the contact at the handle is working correctly and the resorvior sensor is working correctly.
So I know it’s inbetween
 
There is plenty of fluid in the master cylinder and the float and diapram is in good condition.
When I test the sensor I do not get continuity.
When I disconnect the sensor and check the other end (the connector that goes inside the cab) I get continuity from terminal to terminal and from terminal to ground.

Was the reservoir full or float pushed down when you tested at the master?
 
It has to be grounded somewhere for that light to turn on. If everything checks out, I’d disassemble the switch at the bottom of the lever. It’s probably stuck.

Another possibility??? Do you have anything wired that circuit, turbo timer??? If so, try disconnecting that and rechecking.
 
more likely it's the switch under the brake pedal. the rubber gets hard and falls apart. had this happen on two of my dsm's. quick fix was three quarters and electrical tape. hope that helps
Op isn't talking about brake lights at the rear of the car. He's taking about dash light from emergency brake
 
My car has been like this since I bought it (non running) and I've come to the conclusion, through diagnosis, that the wire is pinched or has been spliced into somewhere in the dash. All my switches test good as well, so i plan to tear the dash apart once i get time and locate the issue.

I'm assuming I'll find something behind the fuse box or around the pedal area (I didn't notice anything when i did my security system, but there was a previous system in the car).
 
My car has been like this since I bought it (non running) and I've come to the conclusion, through diagnosis, that the wire is pinched or has been spliced into somewhere in the dash. All my switches test good as well, so i plan to tear the dash apart once i get time and locate the issue.

I'm assuming I'll find something behind the fuse box or around the pedal area (I didn't notice anything when i did my security system, but there was a previous system in the car).

This is what I'm going to have to do too I guess
 
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