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Brake and Suspension???

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ielaser

15+ Year Contributor
55
1
Mar 3, 2006
Fontana, California
Can having your brakes on backwards be bad, example: left on right side and vice versa?
I took off the tires to inspect my suspension and saw that this is how the front brakes were setup and I don't think this can be good for the car.

Second question is are my struts blown? They are GR-2's with Eibach Pro-Kit Springs and seem to be really bumpy and if I do a quick turn or turn on an uneven street it seems like the car hits the floor.

Thanks for your help.
 
On a directionally vented rotor, direction defently makes a difference, on a stock straight vent setup don't think it would make much difference. As for the shocks, if they are really bumpy this usually indicates that they aren't firm enough to control the increased spring rate of the aftermarket spring or they are blown. From your description sounds like their shot to me.
 
What parts of your brakes do you suspect are reversed and why?
 
wret said:
What parts of your brakes do you suspect are reversed and why?

The rotors, first off they have a sticker one with a R and the other with a L, but the rotors are placed on the oppisite sides meaning the one with the R is on the left side and vice versa.

\/If the car is moving forward the rotors are rotating like this\/

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Slot direction doesn't really matter. It is possibly that the direction they are on your car right now causes more pad wear than the opposite way, however I doubt it.

However if labeled L and R, you would have thought the PO could have figure that one out.

By the way, no, stock rotors are not slotted.
 
The rotors are in good condition as well as the pads, but the only problem is that one of them would squeal while I'm braking and the other seems to be dragging while driving. Just to be safe I am going to check them over more thoroughly and put them on their corresponding side.

Thanks for you help.
 
daren_p said:
As for the shocks, if they are really bumpy this usually indicates that they aren't firm enough to control the increased spring rate of the aftermarket spring or they are blown.
Let's get a few issues straight.

First, when people talk about needing shocks that are stiff enough to "control" the springs, they are talking about rebound, not compression. You often don't have to increase the compression damping at all when switching to stiffer springs. Why? Because the stiffer spring doesn't need any help preventing bounce because it is -- wait for it -- stiffer. However, the stiffer spring does need to be controlled when it rebounds; hence the need for more rebound damping. (And, if you've been keeping score at home, this is also why Koni Sports are better than 99% of the Asian-style shocks that are available for our cars.)

Second, a nasty, bumpy ride can be caused by blown shocks, but it rarely caused by having shocks that are not stiff enough. The two most-popular reasons for a bumpy ride on our cars are (in order of likelihood): too little spring for the amount of available travel and, then, blown shocks.

GR2s are the same length as stock. ProKits lower the car without raising the spring rate much above stock. So you have less travel than stock (since the car was lowered without getting shorter shocks) but you haven't added much spring. Thus, this is probably a case of reason #1 above for a nasty, bumpy ride. If you put on ProKits without cutting the bumpstops, then that pretty much ices this conclusion. (Not that "ices" is such a good metaphor any more, what with the new rules about the red-line not counting.)

- Jtoby

ps. I have no idea who makes that last 1%; I just left the door open to be polite
 
Direction of slots doesn't matter & the stock rotors don't come slotted. Only if the internal vents are directional does it matter which way their on. Stock rotors don't have direction internal vents, they are straight. Most aftermarket brakes still have straight internal vents, its not till you start going with an aftermarket "big brake" kit that they do this. I'm 99% sure your rotors have straight internal vents. As for them being labeled L&R which way are you looking at the car to determine which side is left or right? (looking at the front of the car or when sitting in the drivers seat?) . As for the picture you've attached, even though the direction of the slots doesn't matter that seems to be the preferred direction. The caliper/pad would be on the right side of that pic, & with the slots facing that way, they are supposed to do a better job of cleaning the pad.

Yes while that may be true about compression/rebound. Its not usually until you get into the expensive shocks that both compression & rebound can be independently adjusted, thats why I just generalized by saying a firmer shock. As for being bumpy what exactly does the origional poster mean by this? I was taking it as the car rapidly bouces when he hits a bump but maybe this isn't what he was refering to. Is this something that just started or has the car always rode like this since you lowered it, which could defently indicate the bump stops not being cut.
 
I am giving you my view from the drivers seat for the brakes and they are not stock rotors because they are slotted. As for the suspension, it has been like this since I bought the car and by bumpy I meant rough as I feel every rock, pothole, and uneveness of the road, but I had the idea of the bump stops not being cut. How would I check this? I havn't done anything to the car this is how I bought it.

Edit: When it comes to a bump the car has no rebound, I have to go sideways and very slow or else the car would scrape the bottom or slam real hard.
 
Looking from the drivers seat should be the proper way to tell left & right. As for the shocks you should be able to check if the bump stops have been cut by jacking the car up enough for the wheel to be off the ground so that the suspension is fully extended. There should be a boot covering the shock piston but you should be able to move it out of the way & take a light and look under it. Should be able to see the bump stop by doing this.
 
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