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Bought A Teamrip Tranny Questions

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sweet97

15+ Year Contributor
2,386
18
Mar 6, 2004
auburn, New York
I read posts about his work and found it to be all positive. I went with a new tranny which he mods --listed on his site www.teamrip.com. I also opted for the 10% taller 5th gear. Would have gone with the 25% but was told it was very noisy. OK that's what I got and thougt I'd better change the clutch while it was apart and went with an ACT 2100. There's the facts, now a couple questions.
About how long should this job of changing the trannies take? Anything to watch out for? I will have to farm this work out due to lack of experience and 3 back surgeries. I'm starting out with BG syncroshift or being new should regular gear oil be used like on an engine to allow parts to seat better? I guess this car is going to be a keeper now! I just hope the motor holds until next spring. It has 102k miles and I think it is burning oil. Shepherd could not supply a tranny for at least 2 weeks.
Comments are OK but advice is better. thanks guys, Mark
 
well I am not planning big mods and I read that trannies can add to crankwalk. It must be much better
 
sweet97 said:
well I am not planning big mods and I read that trannies can add to crankwalk. It must be much better

First of all, you meant to say that you read that ACT 2600's can lead to crankwalk.

However, that's a bunch of bull.

Either way, if you don't plan on a lot of mods, the 2100 will be fine. I went 108 mph on mine.
 
I'll chime in about the 25% taller 5th gear, its not noisy if you are at proper speed. If you shift into the tall-ass 5th gear at 30mph yes it makes a whining noise. But at 45mph+ you cant hear a thing.
 
Well my Talon was turning 3500 rpm's at 70 mph. With the taller gear it should drop the rpm's to 3150 at that same speed of 70. I'm sure Shepherd can do the same. I believe it's simply a gear from another DSM. Mark
 
I'm pretty sure the taller 5th Gear is from a JDM Galant VR4. They seem to have taller gearing than USDM DSMs
 
kpt4321 said:
First of all, you meant to say that you read that ACT 2600's can lead to crankwalk.

However, that's a bunch of bull.

Although, not the source of the failure (that would be the design of the block), the 2600 will aggrevate the condition already present. More so, than a stock clutch.
 
Morphius said:
Although, not the source of the failure (that would be the design of the block), the 2600 will aggrevate the condition already present. More so, than a stock clutch.


It will not create the problem, just let someone know about it sooner.
 
sweet97 said:
well I am not planning big mods and I read that trannies can add to crankwalk. It must be much better

Trannies don't lead to crankwalk... do you even know what crankwalk is? Why did you buy an aftermarket "race" trans if you aren't going to do major mods? Get the act 2600...
 
I believe crankwalk has to do with inadequate main bearing load and that a stiff pressure plate can aggravate the condition. I guess since my motor was built in early 1992 that it is one of the "better" 7-bolts. I went with the 2100 clutch kit and an X-ACT flywheel. I heard that the new mitsu AWD trannies are weaker than the originals in order to shift smoother. Jon at teamrip mods them a bit with additional synchros. i wanted a tranny that was a bit better than the original. Whenever i need parts i try to upgrade. I have EVO ex. manifold, 02 housing and turbo, all ported here to install sometime this summer and that is it for mods unless something breaks. I had a Conquest last year and with a 20G spooling to 27 PSI I didn't enjoy the car so I want the Talon to be a nice highway ride. like your sig: Car broken all the time. I've been there and don't want to go back. 'nuff said?
 
I understand the need for a tre or shep trans, however a 16gd car will not need them. I've actually been researching both companies a lot lately since my trans broke again and I want something that will hold up. I agree with you to an extent about the clutch pressure having something to do with crankwalk, however the clutch has nothing to do with the transmission itself in that sense. Well either way I hope you enjoy your trans and have good luck with the trans. When that weak little clutch breaks though ( I think its rated at 330 hp? ) put in at least a centerforce 2500 then.
 
There's not much for tranny choices with Talon AWD's!
My Talon is in great condition and was apparently well kept. Spotless interior and very nice original paint. I plan to keep it. I would never go with a used AWD tranny and that left a rebuilt or new. I chose new.
There are DSM's with much more power than mine that are running 2100's so I'm not worried. Should slipage become an issue I will go with the ACT 2600. I went with the X-ACT flywheel also, 12lbs. I hope to have the EVO big 16G spooling quicker than the 14B.
Time to address some handlng issues. Mark
 
In a post a few back here Kyle states that he ran 108mph in the 1/4 with a 2100. I do not have plans to race. Eventually the motor will go and then I will upgrade the turbo and the clutch. In fact I am researching the 50 trim turbo's now. There seems to be an awfull lot of variations of that turbo. It flows 690 CFM and that should be enough to satisfy!! Mark
 
If your tranny is rebuildable the cost from TRE is $1050. and Shepherd's cost is $900. Figure nearly $100. to ship your tranny to them. TRE sells a rebuilt for $1800. no core required. New they are both around $2200.
I went with TRE because Shepherd was out of them at the time. great customer service from Jon Ripple. He does mod the tranny to his specs and I had a 10% 5th gear ruduction which I love for an extra $150. I used to turn 3500 rpm at 70mph. Now 3500rpm is 80 MPH. 70 MPH is around 3150 RPM. Both guys come with great reputations. The new tranny from TRE was shipped free. If your tranny is a '90 it would cost more to rebuild due to differences in first/second gear that year. If you can afford it buy a new one. Yours may not even be rebuildable and it will cost you $100. to ship it. TRE will give you somethig for yours if you buy a new tranny from him up to $300. but a core is not required. Mark
 
sweet97 said:
If your tranny is rebuildable the cost from TRE is $1050. and Shepherd's cost is $900. Figure nearly $100. to ship your tranny to them. TRE sells a rebuilt for $1800. no core required. New they are both around $2200.
I went with TRE because Shepherd was out of them at the time. great customer service from Jon Ripple. He does mod the tranny to his specs and I had a 10% 5th gear ruduction which I love for an extra $150. I used to turn 3500 rpm at 70mph. Now 3500rpm is 80 MPH. 70 MPH is around 3150 RPM. Both guys come with great reputations. The new tranny from TRE was shipped free. If your tranny is a '90 it would cost more to rebuild due to differences in first/second gear that year. If you can afford it buy a new one. Yours may not even be rebuildable and it will cost you $100. to ship it. TRE will give you somethig for yours if you buy a new tranny from him up to $300. but a core is not required. Mark

how much will they give for the old one?
 
The rebuilt for $1800. is rebuilt by TRE as I understood it. Only on the new tranny can you get something for your old trannydepending on it's condition. Considering nearly $100. to get it to him and then he deducting for damage I did not feel it was worth it.
You can find a good deal of info at his site. www.teamrip.com
 
Damn guys, i feel off topic on this one, but no one who replied has answered any of his questions. Did half of you read the first post?
 
To please thedsmsource, sweet97, I would be very carfull when droping the tranny. I would sugest getting a good floor jack and about 2-3 other people to help you. Sometimes the tranny can be a real SOAB to get off with out slicing and diceing your arteries. When you do drop it make sure to take off both the front drive shafts (and the intermediate on the drivers side). Make sure the axle cups come out. And be sure to remove the thing in the pic. On my car it was right behind the tranny on the passengers side.

My advice on getting the tranny out and clear of the clutch... pull it out as far as you can from the motor, then with help twist the whole tranny forward to clear the diff. the c-ock block of the frame. (you'll se the pics)
 

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