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Boosting EVO3 16G users.....

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Drifter27_04

15+ Year Contributor
335
1
Feb 13, 2005
Winston Salem, North Carolina
To get a idea, how much boost are you using with your EVO3? With pump/race gas w/o any problems.

Can anyone suggest what would work for me? Check profile to get current mods. Would it be ok to run leaded (110) fuel also?
 
Thats really hard to say, as it will be slightly different for everyone. There are many factors like the tune, fuel, etc. Best way to figure it out is to start at a lower boost and keep raising it till you start to knock, then turn it back down to just before this happens. Looks like you have all the bolt on and a built motor so depending on your fuel, you should be able to run low to mid 20's on the street and probably high 20's at the track.
 
daren_p said:
Thats really hard to say, as it will be slightly different for everyone. There are many factors like the tune, fuel, etc. Best way to figure it out is to start at a lower boost and keep raising it till you start to knock, then turn it back down to just before this happens. Looks like you have all the bolt on and a built motor so depending on your fuel, you should be able to run low to mid 20's on the street and probably high 20's at the track.


Thanks,

I just notice that my profile did not mention that the turbo was ported and have the larger 34mm wastegate flapper, will this change things as what boost level i can possibly run on street and track. Again would it be safe running 110 octane?
 
Drifter27_04 said:
Thanks,

I just notice that my profile did not mention that the turbo was ported and have the larger 34mm wastegate flapper, will this change things as what boost level i can possibly run on street and track. Again would it be safe running 110 octane?


If you are planning on running high boost you probably don't want the larger flapper mod. This is to prevent boost creep when guys are trying to low boost. With the larger flapper it tends to blow open at high boost levels because of the increased surface area. If you find that your boost starts to fall of in the upper rpms (depending on how much boost you do want to run) you may want to swap the housing for one with a normal flapper. As for the leaded fuel, not to sure on that as they can't sell it up here by law. I do know that leaded fuel will shorten the life of wideband O2 sensors.
 
Again thanks, I do have the 34mm flapper and this is b/c under the inpression it was told to me was it is to have better control over boost and creep issues. I was only looking to run 22psi for a daily driver and maybe 25-26psi (only) at track. Right now I am running 18psi with no issues. The leaded fuel will only see the track as well not street. As the cost is not cheap I dont care to put gallons after gallons of it in the car when I am going right back to 22psi.

Sorry to hear by law its not for sell up that way
 
It seems like you've got everything you need. What's your A/F looking like right now at 18 psi?
 
Something you may want to try if you find your boost is dropping off while trying to run the higher boost levels is to shim the WG actuator. This just preloads the actuator spring putting more force on the flapper, holding it closed longer & not allowing it to open as far. I find even at 18 psi the car seemed to pull harder once I did this. If the flapper isn't blowing open as far, the turbo is doing less work to creat the same boost pressure, giving you a cooler intake charge, therefore making more power.

To shim the actuator just remove the 2 bolts that hold the actuator to the comp cover and place washers in between them. If I recall I ended up adding 3 to each side, which raised my WG base pressure from 8 psi to 12.
 
daren_p said:
Something you may want to try if you find your boost is dropping off while trying to run the higher boost levels is to shim the WG actuator. This just preloads the actuator spring putting more force on the flapper, holding it closed longer & not allowing it to open as far. I find even at 18 psi the car seemed to pull harder once I did this. If the flapper isn't blowing open as far, the turbo is doing less work to creat the same boost pressure, giving you a cooler intake charge, therefore making more power.

To shim the actuator just remove the 2 bolts that hold the actuator to the comp cover and place washers in between them. If I recall I ended up adding 3 to each side, which raised my WG base pressure from 8 psi to 12.


Thank you Daren_P this was very helpful.
 
Using washers on the wategate will definitely help you to hold boost up top.
How much boost you can run will depend on many things. Tuning is a big part of it.
On race agas I could run 30+psi.
On pump I could run 24psi with taking some timing out around max torque rom then adding it back in up top.
Generaly if you get your timing around your max torque rpm at about 16 degrees then slowly ramp it back up from there you will be able to run a good amount of boost on pump gas.
 
90tsiawd said:
Using washers on the wategate will definitely help you to hold boost up top.
How much boost you can run will depend on many things. Tuning is a big part of it.
On race agas I could run 30+psi.
On pump I could run 24psi with taking some timing out around max torque rom then adding it back in up top.
Generaly if you get your timing around your max torque rpm at about 16 degrees then slowly ramp it back up from there you will be able to run a good amount of boost on pump gas.

I have an e16g and have a custom stage3 chip.I dont have any boost leaks except for some getting into the crankcase and I can run 24-25psi on pump with pretty much no knock.I really dont understand why but it does.It will also fall to about 21 by 6k.
 
fwdeclipse said:
I have an e16g and have a custom stage3 chip.I dont have any boost leaks except for some getting into the crankcase and I can run 24-25psi on pump with pretty much no knock.I really dont understand why but it does.It will also fall to about 21 by 6k.


I can.
You are giving it enough fuel for one and two you have a 2g which runs a much less agresive timing table than a 1g.
 
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