Boost Source 16g

[elfroggo]

I am in the process of upgrading from t-25 to evo 3 16g and I thought for a while where I would get a boost signal for the wastegate.

I know tapping the bov is bad and I noticed that the t25 has a tap/nipple that could be removed. I unscrewed the nipple from the t25 and tapped the evo 3 on the compressor housing. and voila, new source for boost signal.

The compressor housing was very soft and easy to drill. Of course you need to be careful to not drill a hole too large or else it would leak air and probably not hold the nipple in place.

I didn't have to use a tap, just carefully screwed in the nipple from the t25 into the evo 3 turbine housing. I did use a bit of thread lock and rtv to try to seal it in place.

Easy mod and better than tapping your bov for boost source for the wastegate

 

[92awddsm]

I unscrewed the nipple from the t25 and tapped the evo 3 on the turbine housing. and voila, new source for boost signal.

The turbine housing was very soft and easy to drill.

I didn't have to use a tap, just carefully screwed in the nipple from the t25 into the evo 3 turbine housing. I did use a bit of thread lock and rtv to try to seal it in place.

I hope you meant to say compressor housing. After seeing you refer to the turbine housing 3 different times, I am now unsure. If you did actually mean turbine housing, you need to go back and reinstall it into the compressor housing. Boost reference from the turbine side will not work. You will end up going through vacumm line daily and taking the chance of destroying the wg actuator due to the hot exhaust gasses melting or burning the diaphram.

If you installed it into the compressor housing, please edit your post. I can see someone reading this and doing the same and then coming on here to post a thread asking about why it doesnt work.

 

[elfroggo]

Sorry for the confusion yeah I meant compressor housing.

The stock jpipe for a 1g I believe has a nipple for signal, but I bought turbochargers.com kit and using that jpipe.

 

[Stapl3]

There's a nipple right on the J-pipe, no need to do all that.

 

[AWD96TSI]

There's a nipple right on the J-pipe, no need to do all that.

There is not a nipple on the turbochargers.com j-pipe. Which is what he is using. Have to do the same to my dejon j-pipe. O well just a couple minutes of time.

 

[Denji]

Ugh, i was told when i posted something about boost creep that i should use the bov line like in vfaq. http://www.belitski.com/vfaqhallman.html

 

[oldman]

Ugh, i was told when i posted something about boost creep that i should use the bov line like in vfaq. http://www.belitski.com/vfaqhallman.html

That is old news, tapping the BOV line will affect/degrade proper functioning of the BOV.

elfroggo, I would have tapped it on the J-pipe when dealing with 16G (or the likes). Make sure you dremel off the rear of the fitting is it's sticking out, the outlet path is small enough to begin with and you don't want to make it worse.

 

[elfroggo]

Yes, the outlet path is pretty small, I made sure to make the fitting flush as possible against the inside of the outlet.

 

[daren_p]

As long as its not a source of a boost leak & you have it flush on the inside, looks good I did like the others and drilled/tapped my Jpipe & then silver soldered the fitting to make sure of no leaks.

 

[Generation X]

Well damn..... I just installed a FP Green on my car and it didn't come with a nipple for a boost source, so I called up FP and they told me to "Tee" off of the BOV line to the intake manifold. They said they preferred it that way because your using a boost source that's after the intercooler pressure drop. I have mine set up that way and it seems to be working fine so far.

 

[Auto RS T]

Well damn..... I just installed a FP Green on my car and it didn't come with a nipple for a boost source, so I called up FP and they told me to "Tee" off of the BOV line to the intake manifold. They said they preferred it that way because your using a boost source that's after the intercooler pressure drop. I have mine set up that way and it seems to be working fine so far.

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I thought my boost tap was fine too at the BOV line...until I drilled and tapped the turbo outlet elbow with a 1/8 NPT fitting and connected the boost source from there.

Like (oldman) said: That is old news, tapping the BOV line will affect/degrade proper functioning of the BOV.

Try the turbo/outlet tap.

 

[oldman]

Well damn..... I just installed a FP Green on my car and it didn't come with a nipple for a boost source, so I called up FP and they told me to "Tee" off of the BOV line to the intake manifold. They said they preferred it that way because your using a boost source that's after the intercooler pressure drop. I have mine set up that way and it seems to be working fine so far.

FP is right in alot of things but this isn't one of them. Perform a boost leak yourself without disabling your mbc, you will find an open BOV as soon as the wastegate pressure relief valve on the mbc starts to bleed off pressure.

 

[Stapl3]

Bruce, not all MBCs are bleeder type, but that would be an exception to the rule. I haven't seen a non-bleeder MBC in a while.

T'ing off the BOV line has bugged the shit outta me for years, I don't understand why it's be so common to do this, especially when there is a boost source closer to the wastegate in stock form. Putting a probable boost leak on that line is almost as bad as tapping the FPR line for a boost gauge, yet another terrible place for a possible leak.

Edit: Nevermind, I just realized the mbc will bleed pressure out of the line resulting in the BOV to more than likely open while boosting. T'ing the MBC off the BOV is bad on all accounts. Are bleeder MBCs a vacuum leak at idle? I'm not sure what side of the ball the hole is on in the MBC. If so, that's yet another issue with this setup.

 

[oldman]

Edit: Nevermind, I just realized the mbc will bleed pressure out of the line resulting in the BOV to more than likely open while boosting. T'ing the MBC off the BOV is bad on all accounts. Are bleeder MBCs a vacuum leak at idle? I'm not sure what side of the ball the hole is on in the MBC. If so, that's yet another issue with this setup.

Yes, all MBCs will do the same (all ball/spring has a pressure relief hole located after the ball to prevent pressure trap between mbc and wastegate), a bleeder type is even worse because it's a vacuum leak when you let off as well, now we're talking possible compressor surge.

 

[Generation X]

I just don't know why they would tell me that, especially when I have told them what is being said on the boards about you guys saying other wise, and especially after the amount of money I just spent with them, but they still back what they tell me.

They say I will not be getting a true boost reading, because it's not after the pressure drop of my fmic. Hell I don't know.... I got a bunch of well informed guys on here telling me one thing, and then I got a very reputable shop that sponsors the worlds fastest Talon telling me something else. I feel like I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place.

 

[brute]

The boost reading off the compressor housing is the most accurate place you can. What they're saying is that you can get it after the intercooler drop. This makes no difference, however, because you boost gauge is reading from the throttle body (after the pressure drop). So no matter what you have the MBC set at, it's going to be accurate. Right off the compressor housing just eliminates a couple feet of vacuum line, and is much more efficient. I hope you understand... I'm just babbling.

 

[oldman]

They say I will not be getting a true boost reading, because it's not after the pressure drop of my fmic.

Why would that matter if the boost gauge will always show manifold pressure?

Hell I don't know.... I got a bunch of well informed guys on here telling me one thing, and then I got a very reputable shop that sponsors the worlds fastest Talon telling me something else. I feel like I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place.

When in doubt, find out for yourself.

Perform a boost leak yourself without disabling your mbc, you will find an open BOV as soon as the wastegate pressure relief valve on the mbc starts to bleed off pressure.

I just don't know why they would tell me that

Because it's like venting your pcv and breather, it's has been accepted for so long that no one really question it. If I haven't done so many boost leak tests for myself and others locally, I would still be tapping my BOV line today. Most people don't know they have a problem because a slightly opened BOV is hard to detact under WOT and mbc is usually disabled for a boost leak test, most will just try to tune it out.

 

[daren_p]

They say I will not be getting a true boost reading, because it's not after the pressure drop of my fmic.

That seems like a pretty dumb statement to me, what does location of the MBC have to do with boost reading, think about it your not changing the location of your boost gauge. Personally I would tap into the comp cover or lower ic pipe when you get the chance. I have ran with a MBC tapped into the BOV line as a temp setup till I had some down time with the car & can say the boost control was horrible. I saw big spikes and the boost wasn't very stable. Also like mentioned it can/will effect the proper BOV operation.

 

[Generation X]

That seems like a pretty dumb statement to me, what does location of the MBC have to do with boost reading, think about it your not changing the location of your boost gauge. Personally I would tap into the comp cover or lower ic pipe when you get the chance. I have ran with a MBC tapped into the BOV line as a temp setup till I had some down time with the car & can say the boost control was horrible. I saw big spikes and the boost wasn't very stable. Also like mentioned it can/will effect the proper BOV operation.

I'm just going by what they recommended to me bro. I wish one of you guys would call and ask, maybe I'm just misunderstanding him, or something.

I just called them again, and talked with a guy by the name of Mike, same guy I talked to last time, and he told me that he has always tapped off of the bov line.

Although...I'am having some issues with running more boost. I can only run about 11lbs of boost, even with the boost controller maxxed out. I also don't hear my Type-S blowing off anymore like I use to either, and I have it adjusted tight.

Do you think that it's possibly from my boost controller being tapped into my bov line, or do you think I need to shorten the length of the arm on my actuator, because I haven't done any adjusting on that yet.

I mean if I really do need to tap my lower IC pipe for a boost source, it's no big deal to me because I have already done so with my upper IC pipe when I was spraying with my old Big28.

I appeciate you guys trying to help me out here though. That's what it's all about is learning. I just want to make sure I'm learning the right way.

 

[daren_p]

I'm just going by what they recommended to me bro. I wish one of you guys would call and ask, maybe I'm just misunderstanding him, or something.

I just called them again, and talked with a guy by the name of Mike, same guy I talked to last time, and he told me that he has always tapped off of the bov line.

Although...I'am having some issues with running more boost. I can only run about 11lbs of boost, even with the boost controller maxxed out. I also don't hear my Type-S blowing off anymore like I use to either, and I have it adjusted tight.

Do you think that it's possibly from my boost controller being tapped into my bov line, or do you think I need to shorten the length of the arm on my actuator, because I haven't done any adjusting on that yet.

I mean if I really do need to tap my lower IC pipe for a boost source, it's no big deal to me because I have already done so with my upper IC pipe when I was spraying with my old Big28.

I appeciate you guys trying to help me out here though. That's what it's all about is learning. I just want to make sure I'm learning the right way.

Yes I realize you were just passing on the info, wasn't saying your dumb

As for your issues, like I said when you get a chance defently give the MBC its own source. You may have your BOV adjusted to tight & its not blowing off at all, alot of the time it will hold boost & blow off properly at even the weekest setting. As for the boost issue, more then likely its your adjustable actuator. Pull the pin that holds the actuator onto the flapper arm. Now check the tension, you should have to extend the WG actuator arm out in order to get it onto the flapper arm whn the flapper is in the closed position. There should actually be a good amount of force holding the flapper shut so don't be afraid to crank it down abit (I'm sure you can figure this out but you want to shorten the actuator length when you are ttrying to raise the boost).

 

[Generation X]

Yes I realize you were just passing on the info, wasn't saying your dumb

As for your issues, like I said when you get a chance defently give the MBC its own source. You may have your BOV adjusted to tight & its not blowing off at all, alot of the time it will hold boost & blow off properly at even the weekest setting. As for the boost issue, more then likely its your adjustable actuator. Pull the pin that holds the actuator onto the flapper arm. Now check the tension, you should have to extend the WG actuator arm out in order to get it onto the flapper arm whn the flapper is in the closed position. There should actually be a good amount of force holding the flapper shut so don't be afraid to crank it down abit (I'm sure you can figure this out but you want to shorten the actuator length when you are ttrying to raise the boost).

No... I didn't think that you were implying that I was dumb, but I do agree on some certain things that I can be.

Anyways I just installed this thing over the weekend, and I'm really just now getting around to start tinkering with the tuning. Unfortunately I'm still on 550's and a AFPR, where as I really need 650's or some 660's.

I will try everything that you guys have mentioned and see how things go from there. Hopefully I can atleast pull off around 20psi with my little 550's and maybe a little bump in fuel pressure until I do get some bigger injectors.

Thanks again for the pointers, I really appreciate it.