Boost Newb Questions

[XiKeiyaZI]

So I recently stumbled upon an amazing deal for a complete 1G parts car, and a 1G GSX that hadn't been started in 2 years. Well.... I figured "Kay, I can use the parts car to get the other one running.. and bam! AWD Turbo time! "

Well... the GSX... after sitting for 2 years... fired right up. o_o And Moves...

It's a 90' GSX by the way. All stock.

Here are the issues I've encountered so far (In no particular order) :

1 : Drivers Front axle is trash - I have a replacement in perfect condition

2 : It was miss-firing. - Sparkplug Chambers were full of water - Changed plugs and plug wires and it ran SOOO much better

3 : The ignition wire in the steering assembly is bad. Ran a remote start to the starter to start it.

4 : Engine bay is filthy

5 : Low oil pressure. - I checked the oil, and it was barely at the bottom notch on the dipstick. I made sure to not run the car long at all with such low oil.

6 : When I pressed on the brakes, the car dropped idle about 150RPM and there was a light vibration.

7 : Grinds going into second, like, you can't get it in. I checked the shifter cables at the tranny, and the Gear select for when you shift up and down is broken. I think that'd explain why it doesn't slip into 2nd. It just acts like it's not falling all of the way in.

Other than that.. the car seems sound. The engine harness had the covering cut from it... which I'll be either replacing or rebinding. I don't see any hacking whatsoever. The hood was dented from an animal running infront of it, messing up the front bumper and lights as well (All of which I have perfect condition replacements)

What are some of the things I should do to this car to get her in dependable driving condition? This is going to be my baby.. ^^ To take care of and make bad a**! The timing belt SEEMS fresh, and they said they had it changed... but it also sat for 2 years and the car has quite a few miles on it says the dash.

I know nothing about turbos... this is my first. How should I manage that? I have a bit of cash to drop on it if needed, but I want to start with things that will help ensure her reliability.

 

[triggerx]

Replace Timing Belt, Fluids, and Vaccuum Lines.

 

[KKneipper]

1. Fix that axle

2. Try replacing your valve cover gasket, just to ensure that it wasn't oil. (2-3 ft lbs. torque on those bolts... no more)

3. A quick-fix "bandage" can be made from a piece of speaker wire... I wouldn't run it forever like that though.

4. Power wash. Just make sure to cover your air box and fuse box.... Do it while the car is cold. (hot metal, and cold water don't mix) You might discover a couple of leaks.

5. Top off all the fluids, and after you power wash it, you may notice oil leaking from somewhere... It's almost impossible to notice on a filthy engine. Replace any gaskets that show leakage.

6. Sounds like a brake problem, not an engine problem. If you have ABS, then the drop in RPM may be due to the ABS control module using a little bit of electricity. The light vibration may be caused by the ABS (if you're mashing the brake really hard) or it just may be time to do a brake job and possibly get some new rotors.

7. My brother's 1G had the same problem going into 2nd gear. I don't know anything about transmissions yet, but I do know that if you wiggled it just right, his would slide in with no problem. He had to wait a second in neutral til the RPM's dropped just enough.

 

[Achelea]

Might be a clutch adjustment, or the synchros are gone. It can drive, it's just a pain in the muffler.

 

[TSi Kid]

for your tranny try syncro mesh
it'll hold you over for a while but its only stalling the inevivtable (you needing a new tranny)

btw you'll soon fall in love with awd and boost

 

[haswesley]

Light vibration when pushing on brakes is warped rotors. Usually the front ones. Simple fix: Remove them and have them turned at a machine shop. Shouldn't pay more than $25 for the pair to be turned.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

1. Fix that axle

2. Try replacing your valve cover gasket, just to ensure that it wasn't oil. (2-3 ft lbs. torque on those bolts... no more)

3. A quick-fix "bandage" can be made from a piece of speaker wire... I wouldn't run it forever like that though.

4. Power wash. Just make sure to cover your air box and fuse box.... Do it while the car is cold. (hot metal, and cold water don't mix) You might discover a couple of leaks.

5. Top off all the fluids, and after you power wash it, you may notice oil leaking from somewhere... It's almost impossible to notice on a filthy engine. Replace any gaskets that show leakage.

6. Sounds like a brake problem, not an engine problem. If you have ABS, then the drop in RPM may be due to the ABS control module using a little bit of electricity. The light vibration may be caused by the ABS (if you're mashing the brake really hard) or it just may be time to do a brake job and possibly get some new rotors.

7. My brother's 1G had the same problem going into 2nd gear. I don't know anything about transmissions yet, but I do know that if you wiggled it just right, his would slide in with no problem. He had to wait a second in neutral til the RPM's dropped just enough.

Hah. Appreciate the time put into this one.

For the record, the car vibrates a bit while stopped. I haven't Driven it yet due to the Axel, so it's not the Rotor in any way. Sounds like the ABS issue. Is there a process to addressing that?

Also, is it possible to power wash the car at say, a car wash as long as the engine is running? I know that if it's hot and off, and you spray it, you have the risk of warping/cracking the block/head. I've also heard that it's safe to do as long as the engine is running and producing heat.. Kinda like holding a lighter to the bottom of a coke bottle with coke still in it.

>.< I want to replace the T-Belt... but that's a pain in the a**. Hahah. How muhc would a mechanic charge? I changed the belt on my NT.. took me hours.. @_@ And I was scared driving it afterwards..

Also... should I be looking into Boost Gauges or some sort of Logger like a DSM link?

Might be a clutch adjustment, or the synchros are gone. It can drive, it's just a pain in the muffler.

I kind of feel like the clutch isn't bled correctly. The pedal feels stiff the entire travel distance, and JUST begins to soften up. My NT did the same thing and caused grinding in 2nd and 3rd due to clutch drag. Also one of the shift cables were torn. I suppose it's safe to assume it's same thing. I'm going to drain it today and put synchromesh in. Should I be messing with anything in the rear Diff?

 

[KKneipper]

Hah. Appreciate the time put into this one.

For the record, the car vibrates a bit while stopped. I haven't Driven it yet due to the Axel, so it's not the Rotor in any way. Sounds like the ABS issue. Is there a process to addressing that?

Also, is it possible to power wash the car at say, a car wash as long as the engine is running? I know that if it's hot and off, and you spray it, you have the risk of warping/cracking the block/head. I've also heard that it's safe to do as long as the engine is running and producing heat.. Kinda like holding a lighter to the bottom of a coke bottle with coke still in it.

Not a problem... I like to browse the forums and help out when I see something that I might be able to help with.

ABS shouldn't be affecting the car when you're stopped. If you're dropping RPM's when you press the brakes in the driveway while you're not moving, you should probably get your battery and alternator tested. Take it to AutoZone once you get that axle swapped. But, buy your parts from Checker/O'Reilly. AutoZone parts come with lifetime warranties, but fail a lot. Checker probably won't pull the codes due to their insurance liability.

As far as pressure washing goes... I would go to a car wash with a restaurant in view... park at the car wash, pop the hood and go get some lunch... take your time eating, and after an hour or so the car should be cool....

My mom's boyfriend is a mechanic by trade (not necessity, like us) and he pressure washes his engine while it's running. I don't like the idea of it. I would rather just do it cold.

The other option is to put your thumb on the end of the garden hose in your driveway. If you can shoot the water 15 feet off the end of the hose like that, then it should be enough to do a little something. Spray everything down with degreaser (only if the engine is cold) and then take to it with the garden hose... It'll help a little bit at least.

 

[gusu]

Not a problem... I like to browse the forums and help out when I see something that I might be able to help with.

ABS shouldn't be affecting the car when you're stopped. If you're dropping RPM's when you press the brakes in the driveway while you're not moving, you should probably get your battery and alternator tested. Take it to AutoZone once you get that axle swapped. But, buy your parts from Checker/O'Reilly. AutoZone parts come with lifetime warranties, but fail a lot. Checker probably won't pull the codes due to their insurance liability.

As far as pressure washing goes... I would go to a car wash with a restaurant in view... park at the car wash, pop the hood and go get some lunch... take your time eating, and after an hour or so the car should be cool....

My mom's boyfriend is a mechanic by trade (not necessity, like us) and he pressure washes his engine while it's running. I don't like the idea of it. I would rather just do it cold.

The other option is to put your thumb on the end of the garden hose in your driveway. If you can shoot the water 15 feet off the end of the hose like that, then it should be enough to do a little something. Spray everything down with degreaser (only if the engine is cold) and then take to it with the garden hose... It'll help a little bit at least.

How do you avoid sucking the water into your intake?

 

[KKneipper]

How do you avoid sucking the water into your intake?

That's why I don't do it while the engine is running.

I wrap a plastic grocery store sack around the air filter (filter box if you have stock intake) and the fuse box. Don't wrap the battery for risk of the bag melting (I've seen it happen before). Then keep the hood propped open until everything is dry, remove the bags from the air filter and fuse box and let it dry in the sun for another hour or two.

If you wrap a bag around the air filter while the car is running, you have little to no air flow, and if you don't wrap it, you get water in the intake... THAT'S WHY I DO IT WITH THE ENGINE OFF AND COLD.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Not a problem... I like to browse the forums and help out when I see something that I might be able to help with.

ABS shouldn't be affecting the car when you're stopped. If you're dropping RPM's when you press the brakes in the driveway while you're not moving, you should probably get your battery and alternator tested. Take it to AutoZone once you get that axle swapped. But, buy your parts from Checker/O'Reilly. AutoZone parts come with lifetime warranties, but fail a lot. Checker probably won't pull the codes due to their insurance liability.

As far as pressure washing goes... I would go to a car wash with a restaurant in view... park at the car wash, pop the hood and go get some lunch... take your time eating, and after an hour or so the car should be cool....

My mom's boyfriend is a mechanic by trade (not necessity, like us) and he pressure washes his engine while it's running. I don't like the idea of it. I would rather just do it cold.

The other option is to put your thumb on the end of the garden hose in your driveway. If you can shoot the water 15 feet off the end of the hose like that, then it should be enough to do a little something. Spray everything down with degreaser (only if the engine is cold) and then take to it with the garden hose... It'll help a little bit at least.

Hahah. I'll just buy a spray nozzle today. ;3 Got a bit of money saved up for just this occassion... so I'm going to go all out with everything to ensur that she runs great. ;D Royal Purple+Lucas/Synchromesh FTW.

 

[KKneipper]

I wouldn't suggest doing an oil change until you figure out whether you've got any leaks. New oil can make it hard to spot them. Run it for about 100 miles after you pressure wash everything. By then you should notice whether or not you're leaking anywhere. If you're leaking, then fix the leaks and do an oil change afterwards.

Get some new spark plugs and wires as well. Get some NGK V power plugs and NGK 7 mm high performance wires. Gap to .028. That made my car very happy.

Also, I don't know exactly what you should expect for a price on getting the timing belt done. I would expect somewhere around 400 bucks with parts and labor.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

$400? I'll handle the headache myself.

Better yet.....I'll see if I can confirm when they changed the belt. It seems, looks, and feel perfect. Still has the Manu markings on it. I have a brand new rebuilt head here...;P If I don't feel lazy and childish, I'll change it out today. If not, I'll drive it a bit and then change it, just to ensure that the engine is in good running order. If it breaks, I'll either just swap my other 4G63T in or swap the heads. *Shrugs*

As far as oil... I'll need to change it because it's like... black.. and LLLOOOOW. Like.. barely at the bottom notch on the dipstick low. Then again it sat forever. I'll add something cheap to it and run it and see how it goes after I clean it.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm open to more.

Edit : I'm also going to go ahead and do an Intake filter upgrade, mod the air-can, and other such small things following the Tech guide. Should I just go ahead and do that since I'm tearing into things?

 

[Achelea]

First thing you need to do is buy a decent boost gauge. And don't do what I did and use the Cheap plastic line it comes with. Get rubber hose for it.

Second thing, it would be a good idea to replace All the fluids throughout the whole car if possible. Look up what the car needs and get that. The read diff, transfer case, trans etc etc. Gives you a chance to check the fluid as it comes out to see if there's any metal shavings or discoloration from being burnt. I would do the timing belt to be sure.

Not to mention it gives you a Great record of Exactly when they were replaced and no more "When was this last done?"

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

First thing you need to do is buy a decent boost gauge. And don't do what I did and use the Cheap plastic line it comes with. Get rubber hose for it.

Second thing, it would be a good idea to replace All the fluids throughout the whole car if possible. Look up what the car needs and get that. The read diff, transfer case, trans etc etc. Gives you a chance to check the fluid as it comes out to see if there's any metal shavings or discoloration from being burnt. I would do the timing belt to be sure.

Not to mention it gives you a Great record of Exactly when they were replaced and no more "When was this last done?"

See, I'm looking FORWARD to doing all of this... save the timing belt. To me, it's intimidating... and I changed the one one my N/T last week... -.-; So I don't really feel like dealing with that headache right off the bat. =/ I know I need too... I know!

As far as boost gauges.. I was actually looking to install a 3-pod pillar. 1 Boost, one Fuel/Air... and the third I'm not sure...

Any recommendations on what to get and where to get em'?

 

[Achelea]

Personally I'd avoid the A pillar. If only cause of the damned belts. I'd go for dash mount, like on the sides, or in the place of the vent in the center console. I'm aiming to install it on the upper right corner of the dash, but i need a spare dash to fab up something like that. XD

But if you must, cheap boost gauges can be picked up at Pepboys for like 30 bucks.
Road Race Engineering's Eclipse Gauges
There are plenty of gauges you can get.

Boost
A/F
Oil Temp.
Oil Pressure
Exhaust Gas Temp
Trans temp
Clock

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Personally I'd avoid the A pillar. If only cause of the damned belts. I'd go for dash mount, like on the sides, or in the place of the vent in the center console. I'm aiming to install it on the upper right corner of the dash, but i need a spare dash to fab up something like that. XD

But if you must, cheap boost gauges can be picked up at Pepboys for like 30 bucks.
Road Race Engineering's Eclipse Gauges
There are plenty of gauges you can get.

Boost
A/F
Oil Temp.
Oil Pressure
Exhaust Gas Temp
Trans temp
Clock

>_> I have a spare dash.... in AWESOME condition....
I dunno about the removal of the center vents. I rather enjoy my AC. xD Even if it robs a little HP... I'd rather it be blowing frost than me burning up. Either way, not much here in this area will hold a candle to this thing. ;3

Btw... I know of what I need to do tune up now... what should I look for in electronics/management systems right now?

 

[Achelea]

Spark plugs, wires usually do the trick to start with, along with air filter.

I'd avoid trying to do any thing to the GSX until you've chased all the little bugs out of it.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Spark plugs, wires usually do the trick to start with, along with air filter.

I'd avoid trying to do any thing to the GSX until you've chased all the little bugs out of it.

Aye aye Capt'.

I'm ehading home in about 10 minutes to get to work on it.

Hopefully drive it before the day is over.

 

[Achelea]

Not til the Axle is fixed. Friend of mine's Passenger axle looked bad. Right up til it exploded and the car stopped driving.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Not til the Axle is fixed. Friend of mine's Passenger axle looked bad. Right up til it exploded and the car stopped driving.

As stated above. I have brand new axels all the way around. Got 3 in last night before I got tired. Last one is just a simple slap in/Bolt up.

^^ It'll move good tonight... if I can tolerate ripping the shift cables out.

 

[Achelea]

My bad ^_^

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

S'alll Geeewwwd.

That damned axle looked like it had exploded.

Then again they hit a deer. xDD

And no... no mounts are broken. Transmission is on straight. Nothing is out of line..;P just messed up the hood and that axle was ready to go anyway.

;D All of which I have replacements for!!! Yay for owning a complete TSI Donar!!

 

[KKneipper]

I would top off the oil that's already in there, pressure wash it thoroughly, and drive it a while. Let the oil pressure build up to normal boosting levels for a day or two. Then you can check everything out to see if you've got a leak. Your oil pan gasket will probably need to be replaced when you do the oil change.

Hope all goes well with it, and post some pics.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Actually, we are getting a camera today and documenting everything we do with the tools we have.

So far :

We have changed the new axle in. It was kind of a tough job considering that the nuts for the exhaust (which I dropped for better room to get to the driverside axel bracket) were like.. spotwelded in place.

Old Hood removed. Front bumper and light assembly removed. Will be replaced when I get home.

Oil has been topped off. Tranny fluid was about a quart low. Added synchromesh.

Issue : The drain plug on the Tranny, and on the oil pan are damn near rounded off. Any hints on how to get these out? I can drop the oil pan, replace the gasket, and put my other perfect oilpan on... but the bolt on the tranny.... yeah...that big 23 sized bastard is too shallow to get a good grip on it with a breaker bar or anything.

Also. Ignition wire has a short. Using a remote start method to start it. Will be fixing that and mounting a new battery today. Also, rebinding the wiring harness.

I'll post pics first thing tomorrow of everything we do.

OH!! Is there an easier way to bleed the slave cylinder? That damned bleeder valve is so hard to get to. I'm sure the clutch isn't bled right and the fluid in the master cylinder is WAAAY overfilled. Like... touching the cap. I think they tried to bleed it and failed. It doesn't fel like it's disengaging all of the way, causing clutch drag, causing second to grind horribly.