Boost Leaks!

[RiceKiller_TSi]

Got some, need to make a detector...
I didn't find the info at vfaq.


GOT LINK?

 

[RiceKiller_TSi]

Did it work?.

Didn't get to do it last night. Doing it now though. I'll report back later today after I make some runs.

Install a fuel gauge, $25 filter mounted.

Where can I get one for that price?

I pulled out 10% more fuel yesterday (low and high trims) and the car pulled like a raped ape. Only problem is that after about an hour it starting running like crap again. I'm beginning to think there might be something wrong with the ecu. (Note: Caps were changed out in it about 4 years ago.)

To test this I changed the fuel settings and waited to see if it would be reflected on my data logger. That was yesterday at 2:00pm and as of 9:30pm last night I was still showing the same trims. Before I began to have problems it would only take about 2miles of driving for the changes to be reflected on my logger. I had to have driven about 20 miles yesterday and it still hasn't changed the values.

 

[RiceKiller_TSi]

it probably would have been cheaper to just check the voltage on the knock sensor, haynes probably has that info.

It probably would have been cheaper but since my knock sensor is nearly 14 years old I just figured replacing it before it fails couldn't hurt.

be thankful your car runs....

I AM thankful that my car runs and I'll be even MORE thankful when it runs the way it should after I've spent nearly 3 grand on it. Just "running" is not acceptable for me my friend... I have a wife and thats like having an IRS audit when it comes to spending money for boy toys.

It makes me look bad when she tells me that my car used to be faster BEFORE the rebuild.

 

[oldman]

Where can I get one for that price?

Ok, it's $30. http://store.summitracing.com/defau...rch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp&x=38&y=6

 

[tstkl]

http://www.fuelinjectorclinic.com/cart/fuelpress_gauge.htm

21 dollars,... for a while it was 11 though... i wonder why it was bumped up 10 bucks...

 

[RiceKiller_TSi]

Well...
Its not the knock sensor.

Whatever it is has GOT to be related to the air fuel mixture. I'm about to order that fuel pressure guage.

 

[tstkl]

and to update my set up, today i went and picked up my new intake manifold gasket (number two in case i have to start counting) and started to install it, and as i was installing it i realised, the center thread between cylinders 2 and 3 is stripped....kinda? its hard to explain, but basically, it works, but theres a LOT of friction, so when i torqued it to 20ish ft lbs.... it wasnt tight enough. basically the top of the screw has perfectly fine threads, (btw if your still wondering, the leak was over cylinder number two, on the side closer to cylinder three, on the top...GEE I WONDER....) but as you go towards the bottom of the screw, the threads become smashed. which means theres still a gap and it still works, its just harder to turn, by a lot. I didnt get to finish because my parents are bitches, but thats life, tomorrow ill see if she runs right and get some coolant lines to reconnect the faiv. Ive given up the idea that i can get the intercooler on without cutting the bumper, since i came so close that there isnt much cutting to do anyways.

i had a question, but now i forgot it...

 

[tstkl]

SHE IDLES... YES

once i get the bumper on and the oil cooler remounted ill be in the buisness... also reconnect the faiv, since it idles at 12-1300, but still, IT IDLES!!!!!!!!! ive never been so stoked before in my life......

 

[oldman]

once i get the bumper on and the oil cooler remounted ill be in the buisness... also reconnect the faiv, since it idles at 12-1300, but still, IT IDLES!!!!!!!!! ive never been so stoked before in my life......

It's about time one of you post back with good news. What was that question you forgot about?

Whatever it is has GOT to be related to the air fuel mixture. I'm about to order that fuel pressure guage.

I think that will tell a lot about what's going on, at least it will eliminate the fuel system. Post back what you find.

 

[tstkl]

THE SCREW!!!

thats what my question was about, the screw thats kinda stripped

i just used that because it still works fine, but i dont know that i trust it fully, is it ok if i just remove that screw and replace it with a new one? that wont create a leak again will it? since the gasket is already crushed... i dont want to have to buy a third intake manifold gasket, so leave the screw or replace it?

also is it bad to drive your car around without enough power steering fluid? ill probably get fluid before i get the bumpers on and the oil cooler mounted, but who knows. btw by not enough i mean that when i clean off the stick and put it in, it comes out just as clean as before. any generic power steering fluid will do right? its too bad i have to replace the oil for when i shorten the oil cooler lines, then i have this sea foam sitting here that will require another oil change... can i sea foam here without moving it? or should i zip tie the oil cooler on and drive her around ghetto style? i hope no one hits my new fmic.

 

[oldman]

THE SCREW!!!

Are you talking about the intake manifold bolt between 2 & 3? What's stripped? the bolt or the threads inside the head?

also is it bad to drive your car around without enough power steering fluid? ill probably get fluid before i get the bumpers on and the oil cooler mounted, but who knows. btw by not enough i mean that when i clean off the stick and put it in, it comes out just as clean as before. any generic power steering fluid will do right?

Any PS fluid will do and it's not so bad driving around with low ps fluid level, the pump will start to make noise if the level gets too low allowing air to get inside the pump. You have just tons of problems don't you.

 

[tstkl]

Are you talking about the intake manifold bolt between 2 & 3? What's stripped? the bolt or the threads inside the head?


Any PS fluid will do and it's not so bad driving around with low ps fluid level, the pump will start to make noise if the level gets too low allowing air to get inside the pump. You have just tons of problems don't you.

the screw between cylinders 2 and 3, it tappers down, so that at the top of the screw the threads are shroter and fatter, while the bottom ones are normal, which is how it tricked me the first time. i torqued it to 20 ft lbs when those short fat threads really made it apply less pressure on the manifold since they were making all this friction. it looks stripped at first, but when you examine it its not that bad. it still works obviously, i just dont know how much i trust it.

and to respond to your last sentence, this is my first car, lay off. just because i desided to do an fmic and smim as my first mods, with everything else you could want for your intake system besides a new throttle body and new compressor/compressor housing (or just a new turbo, if thats easier... ) doesnt mean you can laugh at me for screwing up. maybe i should have started with just an intake pipe or something, but wheres the fun in that? ive learned a lot, havent i?

 

[tstkl]

just realised i probably didnt tell you that i redid the power steering cooler, to make room for the fmic, which is why i dont have much power steering fluid

 

[oldman]

the screw between cylinders 2 and 3, it tappers down, so that at the top of the screw the threads are shroter and fatter, while the bottom ones are normal, which is how it tricked me the first time. i torqued it to 20 ft lbs when those short fat threads really made it apply less pressure on the manifold since they were making all this friction. it looks stripped at first, but when you examine it its not that bad. it still works obviously, i just dont know how much i trust it.

If you're able to grab the threads deeper in the hole and torque it down to 20 ft pound you should be fine, just keep an eye on it from time to time.

maybe i should have started with just an intake pipe or something, but wheres the fun in that? ive learned a lot, havent i?

Yes you certainly have learned a lot and the best way to learn is to dive in but you have not learn one of the most important rule, always one mod at a time when possible. Yes, I shouldn't make fun of you but where's the fun in that.

 

[tstkl]

i guess next january when i do my sbr exhaust manifold, o2 housing (dont know which yet) and buschur racing 3 inch downpipe, high flow cat, and cat back exhaust, ill probably be pming you again then, now will i? i think those things are simple enough though, so maybe not. but after that i plan on getting an a1000 with a full 10 an fuel line leading to a 10 an aeromotive fuel pressure regulator and a fic 10 an fuel rail with 880 cc pte injectors and a 10 an return with a 10 an fuel filter, and i have no idea how to connect the a1000 to the fuel tank, but i remember someone told me its hard. ill have fun with that project.

then ill do a 57 trim, thats one mod at a time for you.

add an act 2600, fidanza lightweight flywheel, dsmlink, and an aem wideband o2 sensor in there somewhere and im done with all the performance mods that ive desided on and see me getting in the near future. (aka im off list of mods#1 and on to list of mods #2, which starts off with suspension and brakes, along with rims and tires, and includes but is not limited to: cf driveshaft, forged internals, coil on plug, fp cams, lightweight adjustable cam gears, fully ported head with valves and springs, and much more...)

after college i hope to get some 500 dollar car for a daily driver so my talon can eventually run 10- second passes

 

[tstkl]

just realised that in my log, the o2 still doesnt go above .07 volts, at idle, rev, anything.... of corse i havent moved the car at all since the oil cooler is hanging off it and it has no bumbers, but should i be worried?

 

[oldman]

just realised that in my log, the o2 still doesnt go above .07 volts, at idle, rev, anything.... of corse i havent moved the car at all since the oil cooler is hanging off it and it has no bumbers, but should i be worried?

A properly functioning O2 sensor should cycle between .2 and .8 once the car is warmed up, I forgot the exact coolant temperature which triggers close loop but it's some where around 180*. If it's stuck at below .07 volts after the temperature is reached, you most likely have a dead sensor.

 

[RiceKiller_TSi]

My new fuel pressure guage and adjustable fp regulator wont arrive til tuesday but I think I've isolated my problem.

Heres what happened:
On friday night on the way home from work the car started hesistating like a MO FO and would barely run. It stuttered CONTINUOSLY all the way home under load. The car idles perfectly but when you give it some gas under load you can hang it up. By now I'm totally blowed because its like one problem after another.

One of my boys from Atlanta came down to show me his new 1.8T and to get his butt handed to him by the Talon but that wasn't going to happen now. Instead, we ended up testing the coil pack, wires, and plugs.

After putting in a set of new wires (the coil pack tested out as OK) the car still hesistated and shook like a crack fiend. So we pull the plugs and guess what?

The plug in the number 2 cylinder was all black! The rest of them looked fine but that cylinder was running SUPER rich. When the car idles you can smell so much gas you'd think you were inhaling it directly from a gas can. I think that the injector in that cylinder is no good. Its spraying too much juice in there.

I've ordered a new 550 to swap it out and see. I am going to move the injectors around to see if the problem moves with the injector later tonight. So thats the latest.

Oh, btw, my 550's are no more than 3 months old so Im straight pissed about this find. I will be selling the entire set of them in about another week for some FIC 650's. If anybody wants to pick up my Lucas 550's (I will include the new one when it arrives) holla at me.

 

[tstkl]

ooooo it has to be at opperating temps, my bad

either way i got the fog lights and oil cooler on today, now i just have to cut the bumper (with what? hacksaw? ) and put those bad boys on. along with go get some coolant lines for the faiv and fix the bumper (lower part came off on one side) and fasten down the fmic. also i would like to move the coolant bottle but i dont know where to... its fine where it is now, but i would rather use the stock smic location for some cold air routing than a place for the coolant bottle. filled my power steering up with too much, but we shall see.... hoping there are some bubbles in the system and it doesnt overflow.

 

[RiceKiller_TSi]

Ok check this out.
Hope this helps somebody else to avoid a lot of nonsense.

I got the new fuel injector installed this morning. The cause of the hesistating and bucking and also the reason that the logger didn't reflect the changes in the fuel trims was because of a bad fuel injector!

It seems that the bad injector was dumping fuel and throwing off the a/f readings. So I'm back on the road now. Problems still ensue though because I am still dealing with high knock counts in all gears under even the mildest acceleration.

Hey Oldman I got the new fuel pressure guage installed and it reads at 41psi under idle. I don't know if thats good for a 1g yet... I'm searching around.

 

[oldman]

I got the new fuel injector installed this morning. The cause of the hesistating and bucking and also the reason that the logger didn't reflect the changes in the fuel trims was because of a bad fuel injector!

Glad that fixed one of your problem, sounds like that injector was stuck open. When I install my brand new Densos, #4 was caught slightly side ways and the pintle cap was pull to one side so it was not spraying properly caused all kind of trouble until I pulled to fix a boost leak at the injector seal.

HOldman I got the new fuel pressure guage installed and it reads at 41psi under idle. I don't know if thats good for a 1g yet... I'm searching around.ey

No, you have fpr overrun. What is your vacuum reading at idle?

 

[RiceKiller_TSi]

No, you have fpr overrun. What is your vacuum reading at idle?

And THATS why its knocking all over the place. Whats the stock fuel pressure supposed to be on a 1g?

I don't know what my vacuum looks like because I don't have a vacuum pump and my boost gauge got pinged (I will repair or replace soon) so its off. I'll find out as soon as I can get one or the other. Why do you mention the vacuum? What will that indicate?

 

[oldman]

Assuming you have no boost leaks and you're idling at -20 inHG which translates to about -10psi, your fuel pressure reading at idle with the vacuum line hooked up to the fpr should be 37psi (1G base pressure) - 10psi = 27psi. You're overrunning the fpr by 41psi-27psi = 14psi. Time for an AFPR, which doesn't include the B&M ComandFlo.

 

[RiceKiller_TSi]

Assuming you have no boost leaks and you're idling at -20 inHG which translates to about -10psi, your fuel pressure reading at idle with the vacuum line hooked up to the fpr should be 37psi (1G base pressure) - 10psi = 27psi. You're overrunning the fpr by 41psi-27psi = 14psi. Time for an AFPR, which doesn't include the B&M ComandFlo.

Hey thanks for the data! I ordered a universal one that is supposed to be by Ralliart off of eBay. It adjusts up AND down zero to one hundred I think. I'll post updates when it comes in.

Hey Oldman... quick question. If the fpr is being overrun is would be futile to replace it with an oem unit wouldn't it? Reason I ask is because it was fine at one point after my rebuild.

Edit: Before I pinged my guage my vacuum was between 20-22HG.

 

[RiceKiller_TSi]

Its funny that I'm having problems with fp overrun. The main reason I got the 190 was so I didn't have to buy an afpr and guage... and now look.

 

[oldman]

I'm willing to bet that majority of the people claiming 190 will not overrun the fpr does not have a fuel gauge installed. As for the ebay fpr, people mostly pay for what they get...mostly, I would stick with a proven one.