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Boost Leaks!

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Are you sure it's the IM gasket and not injector seals/insulators? Check both surfaces with a straight edge? Clean both surfaces thoroughly? Torque them down in the correct pattern like head bolts?
 
yea, the hole is so big I can see it, I actually saw it before this test but I thought it was the gasket overlaping and just bending out, (really I just hoped that)
 
oldman said:
Are you sure it's the IM gasket and not injector seals/insulators? Check both surfaces with a straight edge? Clean both surfaces thoroughly? Torque them down in the correct pattern like head bolts?

You just gave me another spot to check. Thanks!
I've got some orange looking fluid on top of my intake manifold that I can't identify that I first thought to be fuel but it doesnt smell like fuel. Maybe I'm leaking boost from there. Although my seals/insulators are new maybe they are not seated correctly.

Thanks for the inadvertant help.
 
RiceKiller_TSi said:
I've got some orange looking fluid on top of my intake manifold that I can't identify that I first thought to be fuel but it doesnt smell like fuel.
The only orange fluid I can think of is PB Blaster. ROFL

Maybe I'm leaking boost from there. Although my seals/insulators are new maybe they are not seated correctly.
Didn't you spray soapy water on all four injector seals during your pressure test?
 
oldman said:
The only orange fluid I can think of is PB Blaster. ROFL

Ha ha ha! I think It must have been Kool Aid or something! I blew it out with some compressed air and waiting to see if it comes back.


oldman said:
Didn't you spray soapy water on all four injector seals during your pressure test?

Dont chew me out but....



















nope. :coy:


I'm going to re-test tomorrow when my new O2 sensor gets here. Its not fun to burn a whole tank of gas in two and a half days. :(
 
what should I clean both surfaces with? I have carb cleaner, will that do? didnt clean the surfaces, but I think the reason is that I didnt torque them in the correct pattern and that when I bought the gasket, they gave it to me with two large bends in it, both about 45 degrees, but its not a stiff material so I figured it wouldnt matter, does it?
 
tstkl said:
what should I clean both surfaces with? I have carb cleaner, will that do? didnt clean the surfaces, but I think the reason is that I didnt torque them in the correct pattern and that when I bought the gasket, they gave it to me with two large bends in it, both about 45 degrees, but its not a stiff material so I figured it wouldnt matter, does it?
Gasket remover spray and a razer blade. I'm not quite sure you what you mean by the gasket thing.
 
the gasket is like a thin metal, (like a soda can or something) maybe its not metal but thats what it seemed like, anyways, when I bought it, it had two 45ish degree bends in them, as in the metal was bent, but the guy gave it to me like that and since it bends so easily I figured it wouldnt be a problem since I could bend it back, It looks like the leak is right where one of those bends was, because the gasket is bent there, and I never really straightened it out fully...
 
i did pick up an oem piece the first time and that didnt work, im trying to find out why it didnt work though...
 
If you purchased your last one bent up I'm betting that was the problem. Get a new one from somebody that knows that your not supposed to fold them.
 
I dont think that it being bent up is the problem, and if anyone would know not to bend the gasket, these people should. this is a really nice dealership, although since im young I might be wrong. the people I have met there seem to know more than your average mechanic.

could having a bend in the gasket create such a huge leak in the manifold?

could not torquing the bolts down in the right pattern cause such a huge leak?

Im going to try it with the gasket I currently have, and the right bolt pattern, if that doesnt work Ill use a new gasket and the correct bolt pattern and some gasket remover (I got all the old gasket off, so wouldnt I just need something to get rid of the sealant stuff that was there, and the oil that got into the intake system from the pvc and ALL over the head and intake manifold, and if that doesnt work, I think Ill shoot myself....
 
tstkl said:
, and if that doesnt work, I think Ill shoot myself....

I know how you feel. When it rains it pours. I'm still struggling to get my car to stop running hella rich. New O2 sensor and its still dumping fuel but it runs lean at idle so that suggests a vacuum leak somewhere.

Troubleshooting is only fun when you're actually getting somewhere not when you spend money and same problems occur. :(
 
RiceKiller_TSi said:
I know how you feel. When it rains it pours. I'm still struggling to get my car to stop running hella rich. New O2 sensor and its still dumping fuel but it runs lean at idle so that suggests a vacuum leak somewhere.

Troubleshooting is only fun when you're actually getting somewhere not when you spend money and same problems occur. :(
or when you have to buy the same part over and over again cuz you screwed up...
 
I think were both replying too this thread still because we havent solved our problems yet... personally I am waiting for a new gasket from mitsu, its amazing that the only time I've ever met someone who cant speak english well is over the phone talking to parts. Ever time I go there to get my parts or talk to kevin or anyone else their english is perfect, but when I call and ask for parts, I get the guy that makes me want to just talk to him in spanish rather than be put through listening to his english. maybe parts gets the least calls of all their departments, I dont know, but everyone else speaks english perfectly...
 
Yeah, I'm still here because although I got my boost back its still not hitting as hard as it should. Hey Oldman I've redone my boost leak test with soapy water and the intake tract, intercooler, and injector seals are all air tight. No leaks what-so-ever from the intake.

So... with that said, what could cause me to get high knock counts while cruising (up to 43) making my performance lower than what it should be? My knock count isn't that bad at boost sometimes 7-14 but at cruise knock is retarded strong.

My fuel trims look ok. My low trim is at 95% mid 100% and high 90%.
 
What does the rest of the log look like when you're getting crazy knock? O2 reading, timing advance....etc. I didn't see any fuel management in your profile, how are you tuning the 550s? Do you have lifter ticks? Have you considered the possibility of a defective knock sensor? You shouldn't have knock at all at that kind of boost level? Something is definitely wrong.

Edit: Do you have a way to monitor fuel pressure? Maybe you have a defective fpr, maybe you're one of the few who overruns the fpr with a 190.
 
oldman said:
What does the rest of the log look like when you're getting crazy knock? O2 reading, timing advance....etc. I didn't see any fuel management in your profile, how are you tuning the 550s? Do you have lifter ticks? Have you considered the possibility of a defective knock sensor? You shouldn't have knock at all at that kind of boost level? Something is definitely wrong.

Edit: Do you have a way to monitor fuel pressure? Maybe you have a defective fpr, maybe you're one of the few who overruns the fpr with a 190.

First off thank you for all your help in assisting me with narrowing down this problem.

oldman said:
What does the rest of the log look like when you're getting crazy knock?
O2 reading, timing advance....etc. I didn't see any fuel management in your profile, how are you tuning the 550s?

I will post a log in a little while since I'm at work now and my logger is in the car, but for fuel management I am using the maf translator. Before the "no boost" problem I ran 23psi at wot on the stock smic with like 1 count of knock.

oldman said:
Do you have lifter ticks? Have you considered the possibility of a defective knock sensor? You shouldn't have knock at all at that kind of boost level? Something is definitely wrong.

I don't have lifter tick (3g upgraded lifters). I think you may be on to something with the knock sensor though. One day a little over a month ago I got an error code for the knock sensor (31) but it went away after I shut the car off and restarted it later on. It hasn't thrown that code since so I figured it must have been a glitch. I've since then reset the computer and I assumed that if it was really bad then the ecu would flag it again. I've purchased a new knock sensor and will be installing it tonight.

oldman said:
Edit: Do you have a way to monitor fuel pressure? Maybe you have a defective fpr, maybe you're one of the few who overruns the fpr with a 190.

Again you may be on to something here...
I don't have an aftermarket fpr but it HAS crossed my mind that mine may have gone bad recently. Reason I say this is because my logger says my low fuel trim is pretty good (around 95%) but I can smell fuel like a MO FO when its idling and I've tried to compensate by taking fuel out with the translator to no avail. So the fpr is a potential point of failure. Whats the best way to check this thing?

This just might be what the problem is but why the heck would my logger show my fuel being ok at idle instead of pig rich? Also my o2 gauge is cycling between lean and stoich at idle... it doesn't even go NEAR rich.

But check this out. When I'm under boost then I dump it and take my foot off the gas to decelerate while in gear I sometimes get a backfire like its dumping mega fuel into the exhaust.
 
Heres what a cruise in fifth gear on the interstate looked like yesterday.


rpm = 3531
injp = 4.86ms
knck = 43
tima = 16*
O2-R = 0.91v
injd = 14.0%
FTRL = 100%
FTRM = 100%
FTRH = 100%
FT02 = 58.5%


rpm = 3750
injp = 4.60ms
knck = 43
tima = 17*
O2-R = 0.89v
injd = 14.0%
FTRL = 100%
FTRM = 100%
FTRH = 100%
FT02 = 58.5%

I do believe my fuel trims were 100% because I had reset the ecu after installing a new o2 sensor.

This is what it looks like when I strategically position the throttle open during cruising. In other words giving it just enough gas to be accelerating but... BARELY.

rpm = 3093
injp = 1.27ms
knck = 0
tima = 40*
O2-R = 0.68v
injd = 3.1%
FTRL = 100%
FTRM = 100%
FTRH = 100%
FT02 = 100.0%
 
RiceKiller_TSi said:
I don't have lifter tick (3g upgraded lifters). I think you may be on to something with the knock sensor though. One day a little over a month ago I got an error code for the knock sensor (31) but it went away after I shut the car off and restarted it later on. It hasn't thrown that code since so I figured it must have been a glitch. I've since then reset the computer and I assumed that if it was really bad then the ecu would flag it again. I've purchased a new knock sensor and will be installing it tonight.
Did it work?

So the fpr is a potential point of failure. Whats the best way to check this thing?
Install a fuel gauge, $25 filter mounted.
 
it probably would have been cheaper to just check the voltage on the knock sensor, haynes probably has that info.

be thankful your car runs....
 
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