Boost Leak Test Results/Questions

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

So I ran a successful boost leak test today, and found all of my boost leaks. The problem is, I am not sure what parts are leaking, and what parts I need to replace them.

In the picture, I have bubbles in all of the locations that the red arrows are pointing to. Above the valve cover (I believe the location of my injectors?) are pretty much all leaking, what is the part that I need to replace? And can I do that myself at home? Also, my BOV gasket is leaking, it is a 1g mitsu bov, can I get that gasket from an autoparts store?

Another question, I was getting a LOT of bubbles coming from my idle control screw What do I need to replace in there?

Heres a funny story for you guys though... Since I bought the car a few months ago, everytime I got into boost, it would make a loud WHOOSH sound. My brother owned a GST, and a GSX, and my other brother owns a GST and none of their cars have sounded like this. I thought it was a mixture of my Injen intake/1g BOV and ignored it. Well I took off the intake to do the BLT today, and the system wouldnt even hold 15 PSI due to a leak in my lower inter cooler piping... The coupler was on, and connecting the SMIC, but the clamp was just dangling there... Needless to say, I tightened that sucker down and feel like it brought the car back to life.

It fixed my inconsistent idling issues, and my boost is so much more consistent and smooth, and ive still got the other leaks to fix.

Anyways, can someone please help me with my questions? I plan on hitting up the parts store after class tomorrow and really want to get these leaks fixed so I can check another thing off of my maintenance list to start adding mods

And btw, that is not my motor V Just used that picture as a reference.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Do it before you take anything apart or you will get sprayed in fuel

 

[undefined0000]

Yeah but he's reluctant to help me because he wants me to figure it out by myself like he did -_-

When do I go about depressurizing the fuel system during the process of removing the injectors? After tAking the fuel rail out?

Not sure if its before or after disassembly anything.

I've never bothered with de-pressurizing the system, I just undo the left side of the fuel rail SLOWLY and let the gas dribble out, a little less safe, but if you're going to, it would be before you start removing the fuel rail. Take out the fuel pump fuse and start the car. Then remove the 2 bolts on each side of the fuel rail. I've done this 100 times, but I'm a 1g, not sure if too much different.

NOW, the seals you showed above are the NOT the right ones. You need "Lower injector seals":

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

that's what you need. The black ones are what is malfunctioning causing your boost leak.

When you pull the fuel rail up, they'll probably lift out with the injectors, if not, I just used a flathead to pry them out. Just don't take the fuel injectors out of the fuel rail, there's no need unless you're leaking gas.

When you get them out, be amazed at the difference of the old seals and new ones. The old ones will be like plastic .

Put the new seals in the head and put the fuel rail back on, you need to make sure to line up every injector into its respective hole.

before connecting the fuel lines, make sure to replace your TB gasket. There is going to be one from the TB elbow to tb and one from tb to intake mani, so

elbow ---> Metal gasket ---> tb --> paper gasket --> intake mani

make sure the paper gasket is aligned correctly because if you put it on wrong, you will get a massive leak. Theres a little nudge in the gasket that lines up with a nudge on the TB. Line the gasket and Tb with a little RTV to help seal, I use a little RTV on the metal elbow gasket too.

Then put it all back together. Make sure when you do your next BLT, the car is warmed up. I know that the first seal on the left for me doesn't seal air until its warmed up (proven from hot and cold BLTs)

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

So should I get my money back for the injector seal kits I bought or go ahead and put them on for good measure?

Also when doing the biss screw and o ring, do I just unscrew it all the way with it pressurized or dr pressurized? Does it matter?

 

[undefined0000]

So should I get my money back for the injector seal kits I bought or go ahead and put them on for good measure?

Also when doing the biss screw and o ring, do I just unscrew it all the way with it pressurized or dr pressurized? Does it matter?

Just keep them for when you get new injectors or just in case.

Make sure the system isn't pressurized when you're replacing the BISS, Oh boy. That sucker would go flyin!

 

[PrimerPLus]

And if you mean fuel pressurized that wont affect the biss screw going anywhere.

Also make sure to COUNT THE NUMBER OF TURNS when taking out your BISS Screw, because when you put the next one in you want to go the same amount of turns back in.

 

[BogusSVO]

I doubt the injector seals pic in post #5 will work. Those are for a Ford, the lower DSM injector seal is way diffrent, it is not an O ring but closer to a thick flat sided disk.

 

[undefined0000]

I doubt the injector seals pic in post #5 will work. Those are for a Ford, the lower DSM injector seal is way diffrent, it is not an O ring but closer to a thick flat sided disk.

I thought they looked funny, but didn't wanna say anything .

 

[BogusSVO]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

DSM, 4g Lower Fuel injector seal on the left
Ford, and others, lower Fuel Injector O Ring on the right

The Ford one is way to thin and will not seal once the fuel rail is bolted into place.

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

Okie doke, well i went to the dealership.

Got 4 lower injector seals and they match the ones you guys showed me. I got the BISS screw and O Ring while I was there, so here I go. Im going to attempt to do all of this myself!

Wish me luck!

 

[PrimerPLus]

May the force be with you

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

Also, I didnt have a leak on the paper gasket on the TB, so I didnt buy a new gasket for it. I am only replacing the gasket connecting the upper IC piping tot he TB.

Is this a good idea?

 

[PrimerPLus]

If its not leaking yah that's fine. But if it is leaking you'll have to do it again.
Also I like to add a touch of high temp Rtv sealant

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

I CANNOT GET THIS GOD FORSAKEN BISS SCREW OUT!!!!!!!!! GGGGGGGGG IM ABOUT TO SET THE bi*** ON FIRE

Wtf am I doing wrong?! It will NOT come out! I have it screwed all th eway out and it seems like its still threaded in somehow, TF!!!

 

[BogusSVO]

Hook up the BLT, Another member shot his BISS screw across the shop.

You may want to place a rag over the BISS when you apply air pressure.

 

[PrimerPLus]

What I do is use a sharp knife and stick it

 

[undefined0000]

Hook up the BLT, Another member shot his BISS screw across the shop.

You may want to place a rag over the BISS when you apply air pressure.

Seems almost as fun as launvhing your oil dipstick into the air

 

[awdtalon4451]

Lol thats bad news if your get that much crank case pressure from a BLT or start up

 

[undefined0000]

Lol thats bad news if your get that much crank case pressure from a BLT or start up

Haven't had it happen personally . Can't wait for this guy to fix his boost leaks.

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

Yay! I successfully replaced the lower injector seals. I managed to grab all of the spacers before they bit me in the ass. I was a bit intimidated because after I took out out the fuel rail bolts, there was so many wires and cables in the way I couldnt expose the injectors. I said YOLO (idk what the cables names were nor what they are for ) and started disassembling to get the fuel rail out. Took the old seals outs, which were hard like plastic and not rounded anymore and replaced with the new ones from the dealership. Put the injectors back in and reassembled everything I had to move out of the way.

Also, finally got the BISS screw out. I used a larger ph that was more snug in the screw and it stuck to it just enough after unscrewing it that I could grab it and take it out. Never thrown something so far... Then I had to go find it to make sure I was putting the O ring on the right spot.. -_-

Car does feel a bit better, but I still have the TB gasket leaking and BOV leaking. Maybe its all in my head, but my boost does sound better and feels more consistent on the pedal, and im only halfway done

My first actual car maintenance ive done myself and I must say, IM HOOKED! I cant wait until tomorrow to do the TB gasket, and retest everything to hopefully find all problems cured so I can put my DP/exhaust on!

By the way, thanks to EVERYONE that has helped me take care of this procedure. It is probably not only myself benefiting, but others using the search feature and finding this thread with the same problems as me and getting solutions!

Im not done though! Im sure ill be posting again tomorrow with questions about the TB, I know 95% what im doing, but with my luck there will be something not go as planned

 

[PrimerPLus]

"Also, finally got the BISS screw out. I used a larger ph that was more snug in the screw and it stuck to it just enough after unscrewing it that I could grab it and take it out. Never thrown something so far... Then I had to go find it to make sure I was putting the O ring on the right spot.. -_-"

I laughed
Glad it is working out for you. Get those other gaskets on and you and your car will be happy!

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

Looks like im going to be making another trip out to the dealership for one of them. The one I ordered from a local parts store ended up being the paper TB > intake mani gasket :/, the one thats leaking for me is the upper IC piping > intake mani. Maybe ill get lucky and one of these parts stores will have it in stock and save me a 45 min drive to my nearest mitsu dealer. Also just ordered the 1g BOV gasket, hopefully it will get here this weekend and I can get all these leaks fixed.

Should I definitely do another BLT after all of my known leaks are fixed? And this may sound crazy, but my car is feeling a LOT faster and solid after I fixed the HUGE leak in my IC piping due to the clamp not being tightened down. I did already do full timing/water pump, and fully serviced the engine (Oil, coolant, plugs, ect.) but im worried that the extra power will = more stress thus creating or aggravating unknown problems.

Sorry, im such a noob. I just really want to do things right and do them right the first time.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Yes do another boost leak once you fix the ones you know if. You want your system to be tight.
Your car will run 100% better with no leaks

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

It will run better, but will that create more problems if and when I decide to toy with it?

I know maintenance is inevitable, but with an intake, and full IC piping, MBC, and 1g BOV I know the car is a bit quicker than one that is stock. That being said, now that the car will be 100% since the first time ive owned it, should I baby it around a little more to prevent breaks?

 

[Calan]

I managed to grab all of the spacers before they bit me in the ass.

The next time you have the fuel rail out... put two or three small dots of high temp black RTV on each of the spacers before bolting the rail back down, on the side facing the head. The next time you have to fool around with the injectors, the rail will lift off and those spacers will stay put.

Should I definitely do another BLT after all of my known leaks are fixed?

Finding and fixing boost leaks is an iterative process. Air always takes the path of least resistance; so as you fix one leak, another will pop up. You have to keep at it until you've nailed them all and the motor will hold around 5 psi more than the boost you plan to run, for at least 30 seconds or so.

Sorry, im such a noob. I just really want to do things right and do them right the first time.

Everyone starts out a newb. You have the right attitude though, so it should be a fun journey!

I know maintenance is inevitable, but with an intake, and full IC piping, MBC, and 1g BOV I know the car is a bit quicker than one that is stock. That being said, now that the car will be 100% since the first time ive owned it, should I baby it around a little more to prevent breaks?

You don't necessarily have to "baby" it, but if you know that maintenance needs to be done, you obviously don't want to be romping on it from light to light.

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

Thats kind of what I figured, and hopefully all the leaks will get nailed with this first run around. Is there anyway someone can make me a picture of everything to spray to check for leaks?

On my first go, I sprayed all of the IC piping and couplers, the injectors and northern part of the valve cover, the intake manifold, and the SMIC itself. Any other areas I should be checking? On or around the turbo itself? A picture would be gold ^_^