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Boost leak test failed

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kenuwine4g63

15+ Year Contributor
601
50
May 26, 2009
Charlotte, North Carolina
ok guys, i just made a boost leak tester today with a 2in male cap and a 2in pvc female pipe. Drilled my hole threw the cap put the valve stem in sealed it with pipe glue(cement). Then i went to autozone and bout the spectre coupler that comes with the two clamps. I put it on my car hooked up the air compressor and nothing happened. Where did i go wrong here. My 16g isnt reaching full boost till 5100 rpm. It dosnt even hit it just rides. I know i have a leak somewhere but i cant even build 1 psi. I blew up my little compressor so i went to the gas station and there air line couldnt even give me 1psi. Im completely loss:confused:
 
Pull the tester off and put it at the TB elbow to start to lower the amount of leaks you may have. Keep fillin the system with air if it's not holding anything while simultaneously spray soapy water onto everything that sees pressurized air. You will be looking for bubbles.

When you can hold 25psi without it leaking right away then move it to the turbo and do the same thing.
 
do you hear air blowing out?

I cant hear any air. The only air i hear is the air going in the the system but its like its not going in.

Pull the tester off and put it at the TB elbow to start to lower the amount of leaks you may have. Keep fillin the system with air if it's not holding anything while simultaneously spray soapy water onto everything that sees pressurized air. You will be looking for bubbles.

When you can hold 25psi without it leaking right away then move it to the turbo and do the same thing.

I didnt even think about that and thats a great idea. That would eliminate alot. Thanks. Now back to the gas station!!
 
If you think its in the intercooler or pipe then cap off the turbo side or where it connects to the tb elbow and pressurize from the other end and see if it holds.
 
If you think its in the intercooler or pipe then cap off the turbo side or where it connects to the tb elbow and pressurize from the other end and see if it holds.

That'll be hard because i still have the stock uicp. But i did find the problem it was in my tester itself. i have the screw in cap for the female pcv valve and air was leaking out of that, thats why it wasnt building any pressure:banghead:. So now im goin to glue that up and see what happens
 
I still say use a pipe to connect the pvc coupler to the rubber coupler you will get a better seal. Look how i did mine in the video above
 
Finally....I got, i have a whole bunch of leaks everywhere, TB, Biss screw, j-pipe and i dont have the lower seals on my injectors..:ohdamn:.....And that air blew right back in my face. I only built 1 psi of boost and found all thos leaks. Going to o'reillys
 
Wow. How did that happen? You're lucky you didn't end up with an engine bay fire.

agreed. started to do a boost leak test on my car and found one of the lower injector seals had a huge crack in it. wen to advanced and they only could get me enough for two injectors 11$. went to napa and asked if they could get them and they said yes. i told them to hold off because you can get them through stm but its just the lower seals and to me with shipping it would have been 15$ went back to napa to order them and i guess the guy had ordered not just the two i was going to order but a whole set even though i told him to hold off. 4 sets that include the upper o-ring, upper 'seat', and lower seat/seal 25$.
it gave a a reason to replace my fuel rail with my aem though :D still have either multiple leaks or a big leak some where though just cant find it. my set up that i am using to test with is a metal cap i found at advanced that i put the valve stem in that and just use but couple on my turbo and a manual air pump.
 
So I'm gonna test mine soon for the first time. But what does having boost leaks exactly mean. Loss of power, spool time, top end and low end, and just less psi period. Cause I have no boost creep. And build stock psi slow, (16g) I've been told. But builds strong and stays till I let off.

DSM!
 
Wow. How did that happen? You're lucky you didn't end up with an engine bay fire.

Honestly..When i had some lucas 550s they would fall out when trying to line the injectors up to the holes.So i took the out:banghead::banghead::banghead:. I never wouldve thought that boost pressure would come through there. I believe i still have them too i just have to look in my junky trunk. Other than that i order the kit too from o'reillys but it was only like 4 bucks for all 4. Hopefully i can find them and kill this leak i also picked up some rtv gasket sealer too.
 
Air fuel mixture will be off, idle will surge or die depending on how bad the leaks are, loss of power, slower spool time because less exhaust is produced.
 
Honestly..When i had some lucas 550s they would fall out when trying to line the injectors up to the holes.So i took the out:banghead::banghead::banghead:. I never wouldve thought that boost pressure would come through there.
ROFL The only two things that enter the engine are fuel and air. Naturally, your boost pressure would enter the head through the same (and only) intake ports on the head.
 
Maybe i didnt tighten down the injectors enough because all of my lower injector seals are still there.......Its time to tighten everything down. well this rtv will have to seal the rest up
 
i dont really know if using rtv around your injectors would really be a good idea. on the paper work for my aem fuel rail they explicitely said never to use tephlon tape or any type of lyquid sealers with the fuel system. It would be better to use actual correct oem or aftermarket seals that fit correctly then you dont have to worry about half a$$in it and having to fix your fix later on down the road.
 
i dont really know if using rtv around your injectors would really be a good idea. on the paper work for my aem fuel rail they explicitely said never to use tephlon tape or any type of lyquid sealers with the fuel system. It would be better to use actual correct oem or aftermarket seals that fit correctly then you dont have to worry about half a$$in it and having to fix your fix later on down the road.

Nah man thats retarded. Im using rtv for my j-pipe, and for my TB never around the injectors. I still have my lower seals to my injectors so maybe i didnt have them tied down all the way. Another question is what thread pattern is the bolts to the j-pipe to the turbo 16g.
 
If your lower insulators for the I heftier are hard then you need new ones. Usually with the throttle body it's the shaft seals that are leaking and it will require a rebuild to fix. If you use any RTV on gaskets only use a thin layer of it so it gets tacky and will fill any cracks/deformations on the mating surfaces.
 
If your lower insulators for the I heftier are hard then you need new ones. Usually with the throttle body it's the shaft seals that are leaking and it will require a rebuild to fix. If you use any RTV on gaskets only use a thin layer of it so it gets tacky and will fill any cracks/deformations on the mating surfaces.

Got ya. now i just need to know what bolt pattern goes in the j-pipe to the Turbo.(14b 16g style). I have a 16g if that matters
 
OK guys i have everything bolted up PROPERLY and now my 16g spools up at about 3800 rpms(full boost) it starts at around 2900 rpm. does this sound correct or should i look for 3500(full boost)? But from where it was it made a huge difference but im rained out so cant really get the effect due to spining the tires.
 
If you verified you have no boost leaks from turbo inlet on then you are finished with those. Your spool seems good depending on what psi your are trying to attain with it.
 
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