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Boost leak test failed

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kenuwine4g63

15+ Year Contributor
601
50
May 26, 2009
Charlotte, North Carolina
ok guys, i just made a boost leak tester today with a 2in male cap and a 2in pvc female pipe. Drilled my hole threw the cap put the valve stem in sealed it with pipe glue(cement). Then i went to autozone and bout the spectre coupler that comes with the two clamps. I put it on my car hooked up the air compressor and nothing happened. Where did i go wrong here. My 16g isnt reaching full boost till 5100 rpm. It dosnt even hit it just rides. I know i have a leak somewhere but i cant even build 1 psi. I blew up my little compressor so i went to the gas station and there air line couldnt even give me 1psi. Im completely loss:confused:
 
well ill put it back at 15psi when this weather calms down and ill see how much it changes. And also im going to check it one more time to make sure i didnt miss anything
 
"put it back at 15psi" Do you have a tuning device and upgraded fuel mods that you don't have listed in your profile? If your answer is "no" then keep it MAX at 15psi and even that is pushing your puny injectors.
 
Ohh yea i know. I had it at 15psi when i had those 550s in my car. But all i really need is a bigger fuel pump. The stock one i have is rewired, ill ###### wont even have it on 15 more like 12-13. Mid october im buying everything for my car and just sacrifice being broke till like december. Going DSMlink
 
Did you ever try to boost leak test it again to make sure you repaired all your problems? Leaking throttle shaft seals can make a bigger difference than you may think. And the BISS screw only requires a new o-ring.

WTFLeaking throttle shaft sealsWTF...I dont know about that one, but yes i done another test and nothing is leaking, would leaking throttle shaft seals leak from the outside of the throttle body housing. And i replaced the 0-ring too on the biss screw and it didnt leak.

I set it to 15psi and it took forever again to attain that psi. I have a turbo xs mbc the one with the dual adjusters(the corse adj and the bleeder valve adj) it slowed my spool time horribly. So im selling it and will run stock till i get a halman after my injectors or intercooler.
 
Sometimes the throttle body shaft seals will dry out. You might not hear them leaking during a boost leak test unless you flip the throttle plate open and closed. It will sometimes seal fine in one positions but leak horribly when turned just a little bit.
 
Sometimes the throttle body shaft seals will dry out. You might not hear them leaking during a boost leak test unless you flip the throttle plate open and closed. It will sometimes seal fine in one positions but leak horribly when turned just a little bit.

How would i start to check this. Will i have to rebuild the TB or can i just replace the shaft seals.
 
The only way to replace the shaft seals is to remove the plate and shaft. It's actually quite easy; only hard part is making sure you don't strip the two screws that hold the plate in as they are on tight and strip easy.

There is a write up on VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions on how to replace the seals. Take your time your first time around and be sure to mark the orientation of the TPS if you don't have other means to check how it's to be set. Also mark the spring on the back side with a straight line of white out to make sure you wound it up properly for the correct tension.

You can find new seals at various supporting vendors OR you can use a #7 oring on both sides. The OEM style seal is preferred however over the oring method.
 
The only way to replace the shaft seals is to remove the plate and shaft. It's actually quite easy; only hard part is making sure you don't strip the two screws that hold the plate in as they are on tight and strip easy.

There is a write up on VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions on how to replace the seals. Take your time your first time around and be sure to mark the orientation of the TPS if you don't have other means to check how it's to be set. Also mark the spring on the back side with a straight line of white out to make sure you wound it up properly for the correct tension.

You can find new seals at various supporting vendors OR you can use a #7 oring on both sides. The OEM style seal is preferred however over the oring method.

A #7 o-ring? I just bought a assortment of o-rings for like 8 bucks would one the same size work or no?
 
You would need 2 but assuming you can make a proper seal with them then yes. I do recommend using the proper seals however.
 
The hardest part about rebuilding the throttle body is removing the bolts that hold the throttle plate in place.

If you do replace the shaft seals, mark the springs. It makes getting the right tension easier when you put it back together. I just drew a line down the spring with a marker.
 
I wanted to know what boost leak tool can I buy? Because I been looking. I seen one, but I just want to know what would be best to use on my 2g talon.

Make one, use a 2 in. pvc cap connect that to a 2 in. coupling then connect a tire valve stem to the pvc cap and viola BLT.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

Or you could follow this. YouTube - Boost Leak Testing 101: Building the tool.

This is how it should look like if you follow above youtube link.
http://homepage.mac.com/jafro/.Pictures/Boost Leak Testing/BLT-001F.jpg
 
YouTube - SAM 1473

YouTube - SAM 1478

Ahhh.....listen for the cricket sound thats where your leak is!!!
shorten your boost comtroller hoses. and check the pvc valve to see if its stuck open. also do a compression test make sure valve lap isn't there the throttle shaft seals are another biggy on another thing the valve seals too but thats uncommon unless you have 150,000 miles

Biss screw o ring too.......sorry i forgot tho mention that
 
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