The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Boost gauge no boost. Smoke in exhaust...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jaypal1986

Probationary Member
8
0
May 26, 2004
hendersonville, North Carolina
Well i purchased my 91 talon like two years ago and have been kind of hard on it. I think the turbo seals may be gone because there is whiteish blueish smoke in the exhaust all the time but especially if i give it what the stock boost "gauge" reads as boost. during idle i can hear a spinning sound that sounds like a dry bearing on a skateboard so i think my stock 14b turbo is eh now. Today i installed an aftermarket boost gauge and spliced it with a t into the fuel pressure solenoid and checked the boost with the car running and it had nothing not a bit. I gave it gas enough to make the stock boost "gauge" say 7ish and it had nothing, however as i let off the gas the needle dropped for a split second a partial degree. Basically assuming my turbo is shot would these symptoms all occur this way? Any help would be greatly appreciated
and tomorrow im going to take pictures and check the turbo for free play.:dsm:
 
Since the stock boost guage is an estimate from the MAF, chances are your turbo is working, but you have a massive boost leak somewhere.

White smoke coming out of the exhaust all the time means you're burning oil all the time. I suggest a wet and dry compression test to check the health of your motor.
 
White smoke coming out of the exhaust all the time means you're burning oil all the time. I suggest a wet and dry compression test to check the health of your motor.


Unless im very wrong white smoke, that smells somewhat sweetish indicates that you are burning coolant. Blue smoke indicates the burning of oil. Just thought i'd clear that up. :)
 
If your seeing boost on your gauge but the car doesn't feel like its boosting its probably your intake manny gasket, and/or your injector seals leaking, b/c your boost gauge is tapped in before those parts, resulting in seeing boost at your gauge, but then loosing it from your intake manny gasket, and/or fuel injector seals. I just had the same problem, aside from the smoking.:dsm:
 
No sir. White smoke is coolant. Bluish smoke is usually oil. Black smoke is usually a cylinder with crap compression, or the car being run REALLY rich... short version, bad misburn.

Does your aftermarket boost gauge also show vacuum? Is it showing a good healthy ~20in/Hg at idle? If it has vac markings but the needle isn't moving, then the gauge is teed in wrong, or one of the crimp points (nylon hose, right?) may be leaking badly. Which isn't good on a number of levels.

The 14b (among others) uses an oil/water center spool. If the seals in the turbo are shot, it could be leaking oil and water into your intake system, or just straight out into the exhaust, where the hot expended gasses would vaporize/burn it.

If the stock 'boost gauge' is reading 7 and your aftermarket is reading zero, that means one of three things is most likely happening:
1) The feeling of boost, which says that your aftermarket gauge is probably hooked up wrong. You shouldn't be teeing off the fuel pressure solenoid/regulator vacuum line anyway; it's a lot more important to get quick response, as opposed to a lot of the vac lines coming off the INSIDE taps of the throttle body.
2) A huge-ass boost leak, which should also be accompanied by fuel cut, jerking and shuddering a whole lot if you keep trying to accellerate.
3) 7psi of boost, an aftermarket gauge hooked up wrong, and a shot turbo heating up the intake charge so badly that there's no real gain, tossing in the likelihood of knock and pulled timing to make things even more fun.
 
Well I connected the T to the point recommended by Road Race engineering which line is better? I connected it at the drivers side of the firewall at the end of the fuel pressure solenoid.
 
Sounds like you have a boost leak that is sucking air in at idle and leaking boost when your boosting. You should do a boost leak test. You will probably find a few.
 
can i ask a silly dumb question when you were givin the car some gas were you asctually driving the car when you checked the your boost guages or were in nuetral assuming u have a manual or park if atuomatic. cause you will only build boost under a load. and the factory boost guage will show boost even thiugh you are not building any pressure. you be driving the car to check. and i only ask this casue the wasy your worded your original post.

joe:dsm:
 
Well today I went and moved the boost t to the "p" labeled line right off the intake elbow and apparently that works better because i have boost now at about 5 under load.
 
As many have found out the hard way, and I'll make this large and clear for everyone:

Sometimes oil burns whitish/gray.

Especially when the turbo is blown. And especially under load, when vacuum from the motor sucks the oil through the seals, through the intercooler pipes, and into the engine. Sometimes some oils will burn bluish, but many modern synthetics burn whitish or gray, notably Mobil1. As someone mentioned, whitish smoke that smells sweet is coolant, which is a clear indicator of whether the fluid burning is either oil or coolant. Black/dark gray is usually unburned fuel.

there is whiteish blueish smoke in the exhaust all the time, especially if i give it what the stock boost "gauge" reads as boost, i can hear a spinning sound that sounds like a dry bearing on a skateboard

Jaypal, take off the intake pipe, stick your fingers in the compressor inlet, grab the shaft nut with your thumb and forefinger and wiggle it up and down, left and right, and in and out. Any noticeable play indicates your turbo is shot. Any bent fins or scrapes on the compressor housing inlet indicates your turbo is shot. Take off the lower intercooler pipe at the intercooler end and point it downwards. Any large amount of oil pooling out (watch your shoes) indicates your turbo is shot.

Assuming your turbo is fine, do a compression and leakdown test. Assuming that's fine, do a boost leak test.

Report the results as soon as you can.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top