420A Bogging issue

[Dsm_chuy]

Hey guys,
So i was driving and while parking, my eclipse literally was struggling to stay on.

I went straight to orallys and they checked the codes.

.ECT sensor (Low)

They also checked my battery, starter, and alternator, My battery was (bad)
but i have no battery light

Both battery and ect sensor are not even a year old. There brand new

So what do you guys think?

 

[Justin DuBois]

When the engine is running, what voltage do you get at the battery? Anything less that 13.5 v is likely a alternator issue.

 

[Dsm_chuy]

When the engine is running, what voltage do you get at the battery? Anything less that 13.5 v is likely a alternator issue.

Sorry i forgot to mention my alternator is a year new.
Something else i didn’t mention was the battery voltage would drop then go up fast but then drop again ect witch means the alternator is doing its job

Now whats interesting is ect sensor and battery drop voltage.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

The voltage will significantly decrease as the engine falls below 750rpm target idle speed. You may not have an electrical issue, rather an issue with the engine idling.

If the coolant temperature sensor were bad or has poor connection, there would be a false cool reading. Which would richen the mixture significantly causing rough idle and lower engine speed. I would check there. Just because the gauge cluster provides a true reading does not mean the ECT is functional. There is a separate sensor for the gauge reading.

And "new" doesn't necessarily mean "good" with aftermarket parts. Especially with electrical components. I would use the OE parts as much as possible.

 

[Dsm_chuy]

The voltage will significantly decrease as the engine falls below 750rpm target idle speed. You may not have an electrical issue, rather an issue with the engine idling.

If the coolant temperature sensor were bad or has poor connection, there would be a false cool reading. Which would richen the mixture significantly causing rough idle and lower engine speed. I would check there. Just because the gauge cluster provides a true reading does not mean the ECT is functional. There is a separate sensor for the gauge reading.

And "new" doesn't necessarily mean "good" with aftermarket parts. Especially with electrical components. I would use the OE parts as much as possible.

Okay so I replaced the sensor code went away but then came back. And it stopped bogging. But of corse it came back. Lets say its not the sensor but the connector. How would i fix that