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Blown motor (picture)

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gsxonthebeach

15+ Year Contributor
87
0
Apr 22, 2008
seattle, Washington
So I believe I blew my motor tonight. I was taking a right turn and punched it up to a little past 5k, and it sounded like my whole motor just fell apart, like imagine a coffee can filled with marbles and rocks being shaken up, so I coasted to the side of the road. I was positive there would be pieces of block in the road behind me, to my surprise, there wasn't. The motor started smoking white smoke from the head, i noticed it most from the injector side. The car wouldn't turn over, but the battery and electronics all worked fine. I took out the dipstick and noticed ZERO oil on it. And I opened up the oil cap to take a quick look inside, and I saw what maybe a lifter? or something separate from the motor underneath a cam. Here is a picture, <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v286/idontcare236/?action=view&current=blownmotor.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v286/idontcare236/blownmotor.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

I don't really know what to do at this point. But I am posting this bulletin to see if it might be a blown motor. Obviously it is impossible to tell for sure with my very vague description, but I was really hoping that this picture might be able to be described to me. Thank you.
 
Yeah bro say R.I.P to that engine, like i just did. If you have the money to spend, i say have it built too. 2.4 Stroker is a nice build. If your like me who financially is broke the frankenstein or a clean stock 6 bolt engine from a donor would get the job done.
 
Heres the tune that he was running on dsm link when the motor blew. 12 psi creepin to 15psi.
Spark plugs were brown when we pulled them out, with no white.

Basically no knock.

And nathan if you cant find a head you can buy my 1g head if youd like.
 

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Yea GL with the whole build the guy i just bought my car from melted the number 3 piston with a 100 shot of nitrous on a EFFING TURBO CAR i have never and will never use nitrous
 
wow this sucks, a similer thing happend to my 1g when i first bought it. I was purposly trying to blow it up so i had an excuse to buy a new motor but eather way now im a proud owner of a jdm 6 bolt that was very clean and looked as though it was very well taken care of. But just be careful who you buy from if you decide to go that route. And last but not Least GL with everything. :) :dsm:
 
Im still shopping for a clean 6 bolt. What was he thinking? Nitrous is a no-no frys the mani, melts pistons as you mentioned. Unless its for the track and you have a trailer. Not for a DD. You pay extra for a JDM whens its the same as a USDM. Only difference is the JDM says "Cyclone" on the intake mani.
 
And also on the "jdm" engines don't believe them when they say it only has 30k miles on it. The one I bought was "a low 30k motor" when it came in it looked like it had 230k on it and the internals looked just as bad. I did a total rebuild on a engine I paid $1600.00 for. SO if you can find a local one for cheaper just do it and rebuild if it is high miles. At least you can look at it before buying it. Jdm engines aren't worth the money imo.
 
My valve cover looked the same as yours but i didnt have any bottom end problem. Probably due to mine being a 6bolt and having a fresh rebuild. Sorry man i know how you feel. Mine just made a "rannn" noise and died. But it still turned over and had no whole leakin anything.
 
So I had the car towed to my dsm shop, and boy, was I surprised. For a brand new 2.4l 6 bolt block, with wiseco pistons and eagle rods, I am looking at $2,800. On top of that, a 2g head for $950, about $1,000 for all the 7 bolt to 6 bolt modifications (oil pan, mounts, etc) and a lovely $2,000 for removal and install. Don't get me wrong, I would love to install the motor myself, but I just don't have the space nor the tools. I could jump down to a 2 liter 6 bolt, which I was told would be a $1,000 difference. So about $6,800 for a SICK set-up. Anyone want to talk me in or out of this one?
 
Buy a 6 bolt head. Then build your bottom end. Buy an engine stand for 45$. A full wrench/socket/extension set. $80.

I am building a pretty good bottom end, typical wiseco piston, eagle rods, acl bearings, arp bottom end bolts, for $1000. Its not that hard to do this stuff yourself. Its like legos.

You could be done for $2,000, for everything. Built too I might add....
 
agree with him, if you have the room and space, buy an engine hoist and stand and pull the engine yourself. it's not that hard. pull the transmission out with the engine, much easier to disconnect once it's out of the vehicle. at that point, have the block checked, and if the block is good, rebuild it. takes basic tools, a torque wrench and a few special tools. and as always, a repair manual can be your friend!!!

if the block is bad, you should be able to find a good used one for a good price, and putting it in isn't that hard either...if you got it out, you can get it in!!

GL man!!
 
And what I thought was "lifter tick" was very loud and pronounced this past couple weeks as well.

Lifter tick you say? Did the tick match the revs? Mine has been making this sound lately that I thought was lifter tick but it only happens every once in a while, usually on a cold start. I am constantly checking my oil and it is full every time. After reading this thread I'm a little more concerned, was there any other signs besides the ticking?
 
Lifter tick you say? Did the tick match the revs? Mine has been making this sound lately that I thought was lifter tick but it only happens every once in a while, usually on a cold start. I am constantly checking my oil and it is full every time. After reading this thread I'm a little more concerned, was there any other signs besides the ticking?

Yes, the ticks matched the revs. Mine were there 24/7, not just on cold starts. I don't want to scare you into thinking this might happen to you, but at this point, I have no idea what caused this. There is a possibility that the tick came into play, since mostly all the rocker arms were disconnected, but I won't know for a week or so. I will be sure to let you, and everyone else, know EXACTLY what happened. So for now, just play it safe man. I know thats almost an impossible request, I mean we've got turbos for christs sakes, but if you are at all in doubt, don't push it.
 
If space is an issue, I would say rent a storage shed, or something of that nature. You can get one for a couple months, buy the tools and see about renting the bigger stuff then you can do it all yourself for less.

Just a thought.
 
Yes, the ticks matched the revs. Mine were there 24/7, not just on cold starts. I don't want to scare you into thinking this might happen to you, but at this point, I have no idea what caused this. There is a possibility that the tick came into play, since mostly all the rocker arms were disconnected, but I won't know for a week or so. I will be sure to let you, and everyone else, know EXACTLY what happened. So for now, just play it safe man. I know thats almost an impossible request, I mean we've got turbos for christs sakes, but if you are at all in doubt, don't push it.



I took a 2 1/2 hour drive to chico today to get my apartment set up for school. Car ran fine all the way there but on the way back I started to hear the ticking on and off, and it had been running for a little over 3 hours.
Checked the oil (full), anyone have any ideas as to what may be causing the ticking?
 
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