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2G Bixley - The Street/Strip/Track Build - 1998 Eagle Talon TSI AWD

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Chuck98TSI

Proven Member
39
1
Jul 16, 2015
Ottawa, ON, Canada
I look forward to being able to post in the in proper build thread. In the meantime, here it is. I have a build thread going on Canadian DSM board but it has more questions / answers in it. I'll try and keep this one as updates only.

1998 - 2015
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About My DSM History:

I bought my 1st DSM (1992 Eagle Talon TSI AWD) back in 1998. It was a money pit. 9K paid for car. $14,000 in repairs to keep it near stock (it got a 16g turbonetics turbo and 3" cat back). Worst car experience ever.

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So what did I do? Buy a 1997 Eagle Talon TSI AWD. $11K Purchase price and I mildly modded it using the turbo and exhaust from my 1992. (3" cat back, 16g, 550cc, SAFC, ACT 2100 Clutch, etc) I am sucker for punishment. But this car was a great DD. Only 7K in repairs over 4 years of abuse.

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Luckily, this only happened twice
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In 2009, I sold it as I needed a reliable vehicle to travel 1600KM every 2 weeks to areas of the country that regularly see -40F or below. I bought a 2008 300C. I was told my longing for the talon would disappear. Eventually it did. I had planned on adding a Exhaust, CAM, Tunes and 6.1 Lifters in it to make 440 WHP, but I had to wait until warranty was over. I just never got around to modding. As it stands, it has 192,000 Miles on it and still pulls as hard as the day I bought it.

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So there I was, June 2015. Getting ready to hit the big 40. Midlife crisis time. Past couple years, I was really starting to miss the Talon. I ran into an old club DSM member at the gas station. He sold his Corvette Z06 for an Eclipse GSX. That was it. The push I need to get back into DSMs. It took me a month and I found Bixley. A 1998 Eagle Talon TSI AWD. She needed a little love, but the body panels, underside and interior are in great condition. Picked her up for $6K. Newishrebuilt 6 bolt, ECMlink, huge turbo and fmic and injectors, and already modded to accept 26 PSI. (he tossed in AEM meth kit as bonus)

There was some rust underneath, but nothing some time and a wire wheel can't fix. After inspection, there were some more serious issues to address like rusted rad support and the driver strut tower has a hole, but very repairable (and this car won't even see rain or wet roads anymore)

Advert Picture:

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Here the story really begins.


Summer - 2015
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So after getting her home, I start to experience getting locked out of gears and clutch drag. Seller said he only had 1500KM on this supposed race clutch.

I immediately start to tear her apart to deal with the issues. Remember, I have never changed anything tougher than an alternator on a car. But, I have hung out in enough mechanics garages, I was getting the itch to start.

I opened the shift fork boot to peek inside and look what rolled out: Hello my little friend! (Dowel pin?)

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Issue #1. Front Brakes. Can you spot the difference?

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I had also found brown mud type fluid clinging to underside:

Issue #2. EGR bent down and tore CV Boot

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Issue #3. Rad Support

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They welded a piece of rebar under supports and crossmember to add support as the crossmember had nothing to bolt into. Ugghh

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I kept at it. Days and Days of Dealing with Rusted Bolts. Luckily.. have't broken any until......

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Now. O2 housing stud snapped. That took 3 days of fighting to get the stud out. In the end, homemade fluid + grinder to flatten opposite sides of stud. Then vice grips and 3 foot pipe. The whole work bench was lifting but it slowly came out.

I went to change my ARP turbo bolts to OEM, and look at what I was able to hand loosen.

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This is the 1/2" ratchet set from 1980 that I used along with 18inch pipe for leverage. That ratchet never broke. I am amazed.

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I hate exhaust hangers. My knife wins every time.

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5 days after I started I was finally able to drop the tranny!

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Turns out the rear main seal was leaking. leaked into clutch and early destruction ensued. I ordered all the parts needed and kept busy with other things.

Southbend Stage 2 Clutch and PP
ACT Streetlite Flywheel
MD719925 BEARING, CLUTCH RELEASE
MD719602 FULCRUM, CLUTCH RELEASE FORK
MD706185 CLIP CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING RETURN
MD737767 FORK, CLUTCH RELEASE
MD718077 BOOT, CLUTCH RELEASE FORK
MD132656 FLANGE, 10x80
MR187766 CONED DISK, 10.5
MD128901 GASKET,T/C EXHAUST GAS INLET HOLE
MD183243 REAR MAIN GASKET 6 BOLT
MD343564 REAR MAIN SEAL

While waiting.. I tackled wheel wells. Wire brush. Rust Converter. Degreaser. Seam Sealer. Undercoating.

Before:
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After:

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Following day: Hello New Parts!

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Started cleaning the tranny:

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Fixed torn boot

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More to come. Want to post before I lose all this...
 

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Summer 2015
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It was time to look at the rad support. It was worse than I thought.

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I needed a temporary solution and came up with this.

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Little trip to Lucon Metal here in Ottawa. And for $50, Tada! Custom Sleeve

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Some rust preventer spray throughly in that rotting rad support and between the sleeve and frame.. 1/2inch stainless bolts. (I can't weld yet!). I'll tidy up the rest later. This give me something to bolt cross member to.

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My ADD kicked in an off to fix the curling airbag cover.

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Polished Headlights (Left is polished vs not polished)

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Back to finish the front rad support fix:

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Installed TOB, JC, and Fork

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Removed rear seal gasket and put in new

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Painted Cross member with Truck Bed Armor

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At this point.. I was ready to put tranny back in. (Yes. I put Flywheel, clutch and PP in ) I just forgot to take pics.

I fought for two days trying to get tranny back on. Couldn't get angle right, kept hitting subframe. Then Daren from CA DSM board posted this...

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So I made a logo for it.

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You can pay Daren Directly for use :p


Buttoning her up:

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Here she is finally under her own power.

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Ok.. Now I'm bored. Time to tackle something more fun (or so I thought). Fiberglass sub enclosure.

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Ok. Bored again... Custom Gauge Pod? Ok!

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I then slowed down a bit (to financially recover).

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Some track time:

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Unfortunately, I am not used to light flywheels and big turbos. Kept bogging her off the line. Like 1300RPM bog. My best was 14.0 @ 102. No AFPR. Not knowing my base timing, boost leak at TB, exhaust leaks all over between head and down pipe. Excuses. I know :p

I drove her 6000 Miles till storage day came for the winter.

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Goodbye 2015. I look forward to 2016!
 

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Spring 2016
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Hello Spring! I have planned out my path for this year to the best of my A.D.D. ability. Doesn't look like I will be driving it much this year. More working on it than anything else.

My first order came in:
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Windows Tablet for ECMLink
Shifter Cable Clips
RTM Shifter Base Bushing Kit: 2g DSM/EVO1-3
ECMLINK V3 LITE > FULL
PCV Delete
Fuel Filter
Meth Pump, Controller, Tank
Meth Kit Hose and Jets
AFPR Kit
Electronic BC. (Link Controlled)
Boost Leak Tester
3" Cold Air Intake Pipe Extension / Or AirBox
TB Shaft Seals
Tablet Gooseneck Seat Mount
Exhaust Hangers
O2 / DP Gaskets
Short Throw Shifter
Electronic Fuel Pressure Gauge
COP (May be delayed as I have been told CDI is mandatory and stock Ignition good to 600hp)

Tons more stuff coming as well. K&N Air Filter, Proper Shroud Force Air Through Rad, Braided Nylon Hose, Plastic Wire Loom, Braided Nylon Loom, Vacuum 5 port block, and TONS of Arduino stuff. I will be coding my very own sensor logger / warning system. I am not good at looking at gauges when the HP meter starts nearing 400. Going to create a 3" LCD warning Screen on top of steering column. This will monitor sensors and ensure all remain within operating parameters. Anything goes out of spec, this thing will fash and beep letting me know which sensor is not within parameters. (Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, Coolant Temp, Boost Pressure, Meth Flow, IAT anything else I can measure to ensure things are copacetic. All 52mm gauges are going into glove box (backup readings).

This is my work plan for this year:


Drain and Remove Rad, Remove Headlights, Front Mount, All Piping
Remove Exhaust manifold , turbo and full exhaust
Remove AC and any additional weight I can
Remove All Stereo Components
Remove Alternator for Heat Shield Fab
Remove Center Console. Adjust parking brake cable and add short shifter and solid bushings. Remove Rust. Coat shifting assembly, Paisley arm rest recover (black).
Replace HID with Silverstar 6K 9006 Standard Bulbs
Relocate Cruise to Lower Firewall or Block
Catch Can, Coolant Overflow, Vacuum Line Planning
Add Sheet metal Shroud + High CFM Push Fan(s).
Examine Angling Front Mount and Adding Air Divider Across (Andrew Brilliants Plan)
Remove throttle body. Replace seals (Maybe I should just order S90)
Remove Fuel Rail and Injectors. Clean and Flow Test. Polish Fuel Rail
Install AFPR & Fuel Filter
Rerun new Anodized Aluminum Fuel lines.
Relocate PTU to Inside Cabin
Point injectors so connectors point downwards
Install Vacuum 6 Port block.
PCV Delete & Remove Temp Catch can
Modify New Catch Can . Install Catch Can
Install Meth Pump and Tank. Run Lines.
Install Meth Warning LED
Install EBC control by ECU.
Install ECMLink V3 Full
Examine Cooling Improvements (Adjustable 160-190 Fan Controller)
ABS Kill Switch?
Configure Intake Pipe for Cold Air Intake or Cold Air Sheetmetal box + K&N
Install Tablet Mount
Clean and Paint Exhaust
Handle Rust Underneath
Handle Rust / Holes Inside Cabin (Floor)
Relocate Battery to Sub-frame or Trunk
Rear Brake Servicing (Refresh Calipers, Upgrade Disc to Slotted, Parking Brake Cable)
Front Brakes? (Wilwood)
Replace Rear Diff Fluid (Redline)
Add Oil Cooler
Bumper Quick Disconnect (Custom from the back)
Coding Arduino and buy additional sensors

Needless to say, stay "Tuned" :)
 

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