Biss will not come out [Merged 6-7] removal stuck remove take out

[dTERM]

My biss will not come out. it screws out so far than stops I tried to use a flat head screwdriver to slide down under the head to pull/pry it up and it didn't work any suggestions?

I'm trying to get it out to put a new o ring on.

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

and 1g's to! ...... and you can't just go to Home depot because the threads are specific which is retarded. You can go to HD for the o-rings however!

What? I thought only the cap was plastic. I swear mine was metal...

What is the thread pitch?

 

[95TalonOwner]

ok so if i screw that screw in ill get less air while idleing and out i will get more air idleing???

It doesn't matter. You don't have a BISS screw because you have the 420A in your car which is completely different than the 4g63.



And my BISS screw on my 91 laser was definately metal.

 

[weaver]

the owner before me put that screw in so freakin tight. It had really good threads when I tried to take it off, but it was so tight the head just crumbled. It's so tight I don't know if anything but drilling will work unfortunately. I'll definately try everything ya'll have mentioned though. Thanks alot.

 

[tranceman]

It doesn't matter. You don't have a BISS screw because you have the 420A in your car which is completely different than the 4g63.



And my BISS screw on my 91 laser was definately metal.

I read somewhere that the BISS screws in early 1Gs was metal. Also the BISS from the 94 Talon that I swapped my 1G TB from was plastic. Makes me wonder what made them think it was a better idea to switch from metal to a crappy plastic screw.

 

[jorge4g63]

I was looking in my tb yesterday,and noticed it had a whole mess of rtv in where the screw is supposed to be,last owner must have damaged the screw maybe,nevertheless,thanx for the info guys,now i can remove it if damaged. Like talonfreak said,learn every day,.

 

[Byrd]

Yea i forgot that some were metal. When i went to the dealership to get another one they gave me another shitty plastic one, o well. If i was in your position i'd drill it out, it would probably be the easiest way.

I also set my biss and then put rtv gasket maker over it so it wouldn't leak again. Some might say that is retarded and i couldn't adjust the screw again, but rtv is not permanent - it turns to powder when messed with.

 

[jorge4g63]

So the dealership no longer carry metal ones? That's kinda retarded.

 

[spatulahunter1]

mine is an early 95 and the biss is metal, then again since i bought the car used it might not be the one that came in the car

 

[weaver]

I wonder if the dealer can get a metal BISS? Does anybody know for sure what year models came with the metal one? I could get one from a junkyard I guess. Sure would be nice knowing I won't have to go through this crap again!

 

[a_scobel]

Eh just buy a new plastic one, I just got a new screw & o-ring for 7 bucks shipped from mitsubishigraveyard.

Just be careful when turning it..you shouldn't need to mess with it that much anyways, I can't see why you'd be turning it in & out every day. If you're that paranoid about it, buy two or three, & once one shows signs of stripping, replace it. My GSX is a '96 & I just now had to replace the BISS for the head being too stripped..so buy two or three screws & that'll keep you good for 20-30 years

 

[GSXerr]

my biss was stripped. but i could keep turning it for forever & it would never come out of the throttle body, i tried using tape to get it, nope. tried jbwelding a screwdriver to it, that didnt work either. so i took the TB off & tried drilling it out. i dont know if i drilled too far though? there looks like there's a screw in the hole still. there's something, i think it's metal (if you look inside the TB there's a hole where you could push a paper clip upinto it to push the screw out, but mine wouldnt budge).

while i was drilling i dont remember seeing the actual biss coming out. does anybody actually have a picture of what a biss screw looks like out of the tb? when the screw is out of the TB, is there supposed to be a big wide hole that you can see through, because i just see more plastic. im afraid to drill anymore because my drill bits keep hitting metal. i tried taking pics but the lighting's hard, let me know what you think

also, should i just switch to a 1G throttle body? i lookd all over but couldnt find a link showing how to do it exactly, what modifications need to be done to make it fit, etc.

 

[weaver]

It looks to me like you haven't drilled it all out yet. If I remember correctly the BISS is the only plastic piece there, it is a solid plastic screw. Just go slow and try not to damage anything that may be underneath the screw.

 

[ROOKIE1]

Picture .

 

[white92tsiawd]

I recently purchased a 1g eclipse. after looking at the throttle body, I noticed the BISS screw is screwed in as far as it can go, AND its stripped to hell. it also looks like there is some rtv or some kind of gasket sealer on the head of the screw. Im looking for some help from anyone who has any tips? ideas? solutions? ....better yet. I have been realizing that half the bolts on this car, being 15 years old, are either stripped, damaged, or just stuck to where I cant do shit about them. all advice welcome. I tried posting some pictures of the the TB and the stuck screw. Let me know if they aren't showing up. Thanks guys

 

[GST98BIG16G]

i just messed with my turbo bolt that was broken inside. If you do it yourself you might mess it up really bad or fix it , please man just take it to a machine shop

 

[andymoraitis]

I had a similar situation on my old throttle body and we used a dremel with a fine carbide tip to create a slot so that a screwdriver could grab it. It worked like a charm.

Just be gentle since carbide bits are fairly aggressive on softer materials.

 

[AndrewD5418]

superglue a screwdriver to it... ..

 

[andymoraitis]

superglue a screwdriver to it... ..

Or JB Weld it. Damn are we ghetto or what? That's a pretty darn good idea though as long as you don't get it stuck to the sides.

 

[white92tsiawd]

I dont know if the superglue idea would hold up, its a good thought though?

Thanks for the advice Andy ..what kind of dremel do i need though? I thought carbide blades were the ones with an angled sharp edge on the end of the shaft? wouldn't a spinning dremel just tear the head of that screw up worse? What would I need to buy to create deeper slots in that screw? Thanks again

 

[andymoraitis]

We just used a regular Dremel XPR (the cheapie) and the thin carbide bit they sell for it. I know that most porting bits have a an odd shape to them (almost like a cone or a ball) but this one was a simple straight bit. If you didn't look twice you'd think it was a drill bit. It wasn't a hard job and it took less than five minutes. For reference, it resembled this one although it wasn't exactly the same:

http://www.tylertool.com/drem90adgenp.html

All we did was slot a head into the BISS from top to bottom. It wasn't super deep since mine wasn't frozen but it was bottomed out and fairly tight. After the slotting work it freed up with no problems and came out as easy as you please. Just use a magnet to remove it from the TB once you loosen it all the way. If you're concerned a thin bit that will work on aluminum and other soft metals will also do the trick. I picked up my bits at a local Ace hardware but you can nab them at Lowes or Home Depot.

Just go easy and it'll be a breeze.

 

[Defiant]

Check the real tool shops in your area for some left-handed bits, and drill it backward with a reversing drill. Nothing drastic, nothing too deep and not larger than ¼". If the driling doesn't get it out, you should then be able to use an easy-out on it.
Use a dental pick or similar tool to get as much of the silicone out of the way as you can, and when you put it back together, if you use silicone again, squirt the hole with WD-40 before putting in the goop.

 

[white92tsiawd]

sorry...still kind of confused. Are you saying to drill straight through the whole BISS screw (with a smaller bit of course)? Is it basically just like tapping a frozen screw/bolt out of a housing? And Defiant, did you mean put the the screw in first, adjust it to the right setting, then put a drop of WD-40 and some silicone when done?

Thanks to both of you very much, its nice to see that you guys will help ANY members of the board with just about ANY problem that arises, big or small.

 

[1gcrazy]

Defiants got a good idea. Just drill a hole and pull it out like you would an other broken stud or screwed up bolt. Also you can try a tool if you know anyone whos got one...It's hard to explain and I dont know what its called.
It's got a phillips head on it and what you do is set it against the screw and you tap it hard with a hammer and it actually compresses and backs the screw out as you tap it...I forget what its called, a little help here...

 

[wret]

Defiants got a good idea. Just drill a hole and pull it out like you would an other broken stud or screwed up bolt. Also you can try a tool if you know anyone whos got one...It's hard to explain and I dont know what its called.
It's got a phillips head on it and what you do is set it against the screw and you tap it hard with a hammer and it actually compresses and backs the screw out as you tap it...I forget what its called, a little help here...

Impact driver, but's kind of aggressive for a plastic screw.

 

[1gcrazy]

Impact driver, but's kind of aggressive for a plastic screw.

Ahhh...I haven't backed out one yet so I'm a bit inexperienced with it.
Umm I think defiant had the best idea...