Big E316G few Problems (boostbuildup,wg-pressure, Creep)

[Slowrida]

Hey Guys,

i'm driving a Honda CRX Del Sol Vti with a Big 16g from the Evo III.


1.

During the ECU mapping, we saw, that boostbuild started late (see 11PSI at 7000RPM)

I think, that there is a leak anywhere. (Bought a Boostleaktester to solve this Problem)

Do you have other ideas why my boost builds up so late?


2.
Again during the ECU mapping, we saw that we hit fuel cut (set at 15psi). I thought the OEM Actuator will open at about 11PSI. We tried it few times but every time we set up the fuel cut level... we hit it again... til about 20PSI, then we stop.

I have no Boostcontroller because i want to run the OEM Wastegatespringpressure (i thought it is about 11PSI), so the vacuumline is hooked up from the Compressorhousing directly to the actuator. (Put a Nipple in the predrilled M6 hole)

I also hooked up a Compressor to find out when the Actuatorarm starts moving.

It starts moving at 11PSI and is fully open at about 17-18PSI.

is that normal ? which boost i can hold? 11PSI? 17-18PSI? (to much for me) or anything between? i don't understand it.

There is a Mitsubishilogo on it but i don't know if its the original Wastegateactuator.

I want to know if it begin to move at 11PSI, can i hold 11PSI during driving?


3.

Well, yes i think i got boost creep. After hours of reading in threads in this forum i'm sure that i've got boost creep.

Before i installed the turbo, i've never read about boost creep.

I've taken out the turbo to port the wastegateinlet, the wastegate hole and the exit.

Then i will match the gasket to the ported turbinehousing and after that i want to gasketmatch the Downpipe within the dumptube.

Before i took the turbo out of the car i tried driving around without the actuatorarm hooked to the wgflapperarm, rising the wgflapper wide open with a piece of weldingwire. I still see about 15psi... on redline (8200RPM)

I hope you can understand my english

Here are some pictures of the setup so you can see which style of donwpipe and exhaustmanifold i'm driving.

This pictures show the first part of the portjob

Is that enough? I've seen many pictures in this forum and it looks the same but i'm really afraid of build it back together and see boostcreep again. Thats the reason why i'm showing this pictures to you, to got a feedback if that is okay or not.

 

[H4G64T]

Hey Guys,

i'm driving a Honda CRX Del Sol Vti with a Big 16g from the Evo III.


1.

During the ECU mapping, we saw, that boostbuild started late (see 11PSI at 7000RPM)

I think, that there is a leak anywhere. (Bought a Boostleaktester to solve this Problem)

Do you have other ideas why my boost builds up so late?


2.
Again during the ECU mapping, we saw that we hit fuel cut (set at 15psi). I thought the OEM Actuator will open at about 11PSI. We tried it few times but every time we set up the fuel cut level... we hit it again... til about 20PSI, then we stop.

I have no Boostcontroller because i want to run the OEM Wastegatespringpressure (i thought it is about 11PSI), so the vacuumline is hooked up from the Compressorhousing directly to the actuator. (Put a Nipple in the predrilled M6 hole)

I also hooked up a Compressor to find out when the Actuatorarm starts moving.

It starts moving at 11PSI and is fully open at about 17-18PSI.

is that normal ? which boost i can hold? 11PSI? 17-18PSI? (to much for me) or anything between? i don't understand it.

There is a Mitsubishilogo on it but i don't know if its the original Wastegateactuator.

I want to know if it begin to move at 11PSI, can i hold 11PSI during driving?


3.

Well, yes i think i got boost creep. After hours of reading in threads in this forum i'm sure that i've got boost creep.

Before i installed the turbo, i've never read about boost creep.

I've taken out the turbo to port the wastegateinlet, the wastegate hole and the exit.

Then i will match the gasket to the ported turbinehousing and after that i want to gasketmatch the Downpipe within the dumptube.

Before i took the turbo out of the car i tried driving around without the actuatorarm hooked to the wgflapperarm, rising the wgflapper wide open with a piece of weldingwire. I still see about 15psi... on redline (8200RPM)

I hope you can understand my english

Here are some pictures of the setup so you can see which style of donwpipe and exhaustmanifold i'm driving.

This pictures show the first part of the portjob

Is that enough? I've seen many pictures in this forum and it looks the same but i'm really afraid of build it back together and see boostcreep again. Thats the reason why i'm showing this pictures to you, to got a feedback if that is okay or not.

1. Not to be a dick, but go to a Honda forum, we have two different engines and two different ECUs.

2. Welcome to the world of boost creep.

3. Oh cool you figured it out.

I really am not trying to be a dick here, but outside of using a Mitsubishi turbo, that's the end of our similarities, you need to speak with boosted Honda owners.

 

[donniekak]

Where is the wastegate flapper?

 

[GSTurbo1]

sounds like wastegate is staying open... had same problem

 

[Slowrida]

I dont think you are a dick or something like this.

The Problem is that the most Honda driver take garrett turbochargers...

And they have no Problems with boost creep... So there is no Solution to find in a Honda Forum.

The wastegateflapper is back in Place now. Was just remove to enlarge The hole (friend of me did it)

What do you mean with The wastegate is Open ?

You mean The Problem with boostbuildup? How can i Test?

I thougt that The preload of The actuator Hold The flapper closed

 

[H4G64T]

I dont think you are a dick or something like this.

The Problem is that the most Honda driver take garrett turbochargers...

And they have no Problems with boost creep... So there is no Solution to find in a Honda Forum.

The wastegateflapper is back in Place now. Was just remove to enlarge The hole (friend of me did it)

What do you mean with The wastegate is Open ?

You mean The Problem with boostbuildup? How can i Test?

I thougt that The preload of The actuator Hold The flapper closed

Outside of boost creep which is solved with a good porting and a switch to an external wastegate, your boost issue is probably related your specific tune or engine. Like it or not that 1.8L (or 1.6L, not sure if that is a B16 or a B18) does not make the torque our cars too on the low end, which helps our spool.

You might have a huge boost leak or an exhaust leak, which could indicate your wastegate flapper is doing just that flapping in the wind.

 

[Slowrida]

If i'm back home i will search The leaks, yes.

But you say, a good portjob does solve Boostcreep... But what is a Good portjob?

Can u please Look at ms pictures And Tell me if that is Enough?

And can u Tell me Anthing about The wastegatespringpressure?

Is it normal that it Starts Moving at about 11PSI And is fully open at 17?

 

[foxracing4500]

what about an ebay adjustable wastegate? I bought one for my legit big 16g and let the flapper open a little and fully extended at 13psi, took care of most creep but in all honestly if you can get an external wastegate go for it!

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[98Eagle]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...oler/186525-how-cure-boost-creep-porting.html

This is a good write up on porting a 16g to help combat boost creep. There are a ton of threads on it.

 

[JusMX141]

The Evo III 16G is world-famous for boost creep issues on setups with free-flowing exhaust systems.

You'd done a great job opening the actual wastegate hole a bit, now I'd do some porting above the flapper hole in order to direct airflow toward the wastegate hole, FP-style.

 

[Slowrida]

Jus, it Looks like there is Cut Out The whole Material at The left Site isnt it?

Than i've to cut Out much more Material than i've already done havent i?

I know this other threads but Want to know if my Job is Good And solve The other Problems

Again

My actuatorrod Starts moving at about 11psi And is fully Open at 17psi

Is that The normal Way a evo3 actuator Works ?

Thank you guys Helping me

 

[JusMX141]

Well in my example they did port the hole significantly because the customer was running an external gate off the o2 housing, but you can still remove a little material above the flapper hole and make the housing entrance a "D" shape in order to improve flow toward the wastegate hole in your housing.

Your actuator is working fine.

 

[Slowrida]

Hey JUS,

Monday i came back from my holidays and now i got new pictures of the turbinehousing

Is that porting enough to get rid of the boost creep?

if not, what else to do ?

i don't want to get the turbo off a second time to porting it

i want to run about 12-15psi (stock pressure is about 11-12psi I think)

If i can port / do anything else, please tell me

Thank your for your attention and your help

thankful german guy

 

[AngelOfPassion]

It does look a little better... it seems as if the air is going to still flow right passed the hole though because it is completely open right behind it. You want the air to "turn" into the wastegate hole when it opens. It looks like the air is still going to travel through that little indent right passed the wastegate opening instead of through the wastegate.

I wish I could get a picture to explain that but I am at work. I hope you can understand what I am trying to say...

 

[Slowrida]

Sorry, i dont understand what you Want to Tell me

Edit: okay you think The Air will still get through The Turbine instead of Enter The wastegate hole, right?

But i still dont understand how i can change it

 

[AngelOfPassion]

I don't have any experience fabricating turbo's but I would have a machinist weld a thin piece of metal covering that little indent that I was talking about so that the air will be forced to go through the wastegate entrance. Here is a picture that I drew on my work computer . [don't judge my artistic skill haha]

You may want to get a second opinion on this but I don't see why it wouldn't help... but like I said I don't have any experience in custom fabricating a turbo.

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