Better Than Stock 2G Cooling Fan?

[WaWaZat]

I would look at the Zirgo brand fans. They are on ebay and at some online shops. I even saw them at a local parts place. They move alot of air and are very inexpensive.



A 16" moves 3300cfm ~$100
A 14" moves 2670cfm $90

They have more expensive versions too. Like a 16" that moves 3985cfm ~$190 another 16" that moves 3630 for $135..

Im probably going to run two 16" configured one push one pull. I'll start with one pushing and the stock AC fan moved to the cooling fan position.

There are some generics for alot less but they flow alot less...

The only problem w/using a 14"/16" fan is that they're too big to fit flush to the core. Zirgo's 12" fan still moves a lot of air (according to their rating) & would fit flush. The FAL engineer told me to be leary of cfm rating w/a low voltage spec...Zirgo doesn't seem to give voltage ratings on their site. Also, I don't know who's fan motor they're using but the stuff made in China usually isn't worth the effort.

 

[98autogstspyder]

I have allready proven this to be untrue. The slim cooling fan that I am currently using is rated at only 870 cfm @ zero staic pressure and it is working great at cooling my radiator and coolant. There is alot more to cooling capacity than simple cfm numbers.

I see that you have a pocket logger. Did you by chance log the coolant temp numbers before you switched out the fans? How do you know that the stock fans dont actually flow 1200 cfm? I am almost certain of this.

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109027&highlight=stock+fans+flow

Reading that thread can help give you an idea of what the stock fans flow. In that thread dsmjim says that an aftermarket fan he is talking about flows 1750cfms which is 25% more than stock. 25% of 1750 is about 450. 1750 less 450 is about 1300cfms, so yea I am pretty sure I am right on this one.

I also know from personal experience. I had a 1000 cfm fan on my car. During the winter time the car's temps were fine via the stock temp gauge. Then as soon as the first heat wave came in I noticed the car started acting sluggish and the stock gauge began to rise (the stock gauge only moves above the middle area after about 220 degrees). I put the stock fan back in the car and the heat issues went away. This trial and error tells me than my stock fan must flow a bit more than the 1000 cfm fan I used to have. After some research I discovered that the stock fan flows between 1200 and 1300 cfms.

I am by no means an expert on cooling fans, but I do know that stock fans are proven and they flow well.

 

[MNGSX]

...

Zirgo doesn't seem to give voltage ratings on their site.

Its in their .PDF files.

http://www.zirgo.com/files/ZF12.pdf

...

The only problem w/using a 14"/16" fan is that they're too big to fit flush to the core,,,,,

I will be making a shroud for the fans so being flush mounted or not wont matter and a bigger fan can hit more area directly at once...

The GF hood vent I'm adding plus dual fans rated over 3k cfm should do it.. Kind of a tim allen more power cooling system but hey I bet it wont over heat...

 

[99gst_racer]

I will be making a shroud for the fans so being flush mounted or not wont matter and a bigger fan can hit more area directly at once...

The only problem with a shroud is that many j-pipe people dont have the room for one. Hence, the need for slim fans. But, please post pics of your shroud when you build it. What size fans will you be using?

 

[96blacktalon]

Reading that thread can help give you an idea of what the stock fans flow. In that thread dsmjim says that an aftermarket fan he is talking about flows 1750cfms which is 25% more than stock. 25% of 1750 is about 450. 1750 less 450 is about 1300cfms, so yea I am pretty sure I am right on this one.

.

Actually if you wanna find the initial quantity of something based off of a number that is 25% more, you need to divide it out by 5 because 25% on top of the original 100% of whatever qty equals 125% of the original. i.e.

1750= x(1.25) = 1750/1.25= x = 1400cfm



Not bad for stock if the original numbers are correct

 

[98autogstspyder]

Hehe, makes sense. Either way, my point is proven about the stockers flowing more than 800cfm.

 

[MNGSX]

The only problem with a shroud is that many j-pipe people dont have the room for one. Hence, the need for slim fans. But, please post pics of your shroud when you build it. What size fans will you be using?

The driverside will be mounted on the front of the AC core pushing....

The pass side will be mounted like the OE fan but bigger..

Dual 16" fans...

Something like this. I showed it to a sheet metal guy I know and he said yes I can make that its easy... Except mine will be two shrouds each covering half of the radiator & mounted on opposite sides... It will bolt to the stock pass side fan mounts and the core support for the other fan...

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______ means open core area... The shroud only extends under each fans half on its own side.

Engine
Fan____
Radiator
condensor
____Fan

looking at any stock faned car and you will see where even the factory went slim & metal framed the AC fan side.. Which is why I will pusher mount that side... It will keep the elec motor away from the turbine housing & DP heat...

Get this I turned a stock hood into a near full width cowl and you can hardly tell... You do have to bend it.... Carefully, slowly and progressively. Basically remove the rear weather strip close it against rubber snubers strategically placed across the rear where the weather strip was.. Start with short ones and work up moving them around to make the curve smooth and bending just a little at a time guessing ~1/32" at a time. Its a 1" opening from about 6" before one ww squirter growing to about 1.25" in the middle and going to 1" 6" past the other ww sqw. It starts gradually from the hood edge so the hood tail side edges are flush with the fender Its so subtle from the front ..... From the seat you can see heat waves....

 

[WaWaZat]

The driverside will be mounted on the front of the AC core pushing....

The pass side will be mounted like the OE fan but bigger..

Dual 16" fans...

Something like this. I showed it to a sheet metal guy I know and he said yes I can make that its easy... Except mine will be two shrouds each covering half of the radiator & mounted on opposite sides... It will bolt to the stock pass side fan mounts and the core support for the other fan...

______ means open core area... The shroud only extends under each fans half on its own side.

looking at any stock faned car and you will see where even the factory went slim & metal framed the AC fan side.. Which is why I will pusher mount that side... It will keep the elec motor away from the turbine housing & DP heat...

Get this I turned a stock hood into a near full width cowl and you can hardly tell... You do have to bend it.... Carefully, slowly and progressively. Basically remove the rear weather strip close it against rubber snubers strategically placed across the rear where the weather strip was.. Start with short ones and work up moving them around to make the curve smooth and bending just a little at a time guessing ~1/32" at a time. Its a 1" opening from about 6" before one ww squirter growing to about 1.25" in the middle and going to 1" 6" past the other ww sqw. It starts gradually from the hood edge so the hood tail side edges are flush with the fender Its so subtle from the front ..... From the seat you can see heat waves....

You've got some good ideas! If you can, pix of your hood would be great!! Also, keep us posted on your fan set-up.

 

[GEARS]

Actually, that is something similar to what TRE used to offer. They spun the compressor around 180* and then welded a small pipe to the end of the outlet. Basically, it fit just like a T25, so 2G owners wouldn't have to buy any overpriced install kit. Unfortunately, the service wasn't cheap either.....
As far as I know, the EVO GT compressor cover is almost identical to the MHI comp. cover. If you spun the compressor cover to make it face down, you would still need to figure out a way to attach the wg actuator.

I don't believe it was that bad of a price and I never had one fail. $225 got you the rotated compressor housing, billet TIG welded WGA stands so the WGA was positioned just like the T25, ported turbine housing w/ bell ported outlet and the 34mm WGV. It looked as stock appearing as you could make it and many of people have overlooked this turbo at the dealerships when the cars would go in for warranty.

Jon@TRE

 

[MNGSX]

You've got some good ideas! If you can, pix of your hood would be great!! Also, keep us posted on your fan set-up.

I will start with the one on the driverside front mounted.

With the hood I will need to take pics from the glass forward... It wont be apparent on a photo from the front... I might mpg it at idle and at speedwith some yarn tassles taped to the gap too..

 

[99gst_racer]

I don't believe it was that bad of a price and I never had one fail. $225 got you the rotated compressor housing, billet TIG welded WGA stands so the WGA was positioned just like the T25, ported turbine housing w/ bell ported outlet and the 34mm WGV. It looked as stock appearing as you could make it and many of people have overlooked this turbo at the dealerships when the cars would go in for warranty.

Jon@TRE

I agree. For the amount of work done, the price is not that bad. And I think you guys were the only company doing it too, right? I didnt know you replaced the flapper also. Are you guys still servicing them like that? Got a link to the pics?

 

[WaWaZat]

I don't believe it was that bad of a price and I never had one fail. $225 got you the rotated compressor housing, billet TIG welded WGA stands so the WGA was positioned just like the T25, ported turbine housing w/ bell ported outlet and the 34mm WGV. It looked as stock appearing as you could make it and many of people have overlooked this turbo at the dealerships when the cars would go in for warranty.

Jon@TRE

Jon...you're the one that did these!?! I thought the guy typoed & meant RRE. Do you still do these?...only I need my outlet pipe to plumb to a lower IC pipe, off a FMIC, which routes from the drivers side.

BTW...the FWD trans you did for me three years ago still works great!!

 

[Dsmj89]

Sorry to bring up an old thread but i had a question.
I don't mind having my oem passenger side motor fan, as i'm not needing any extra space on that side of my engine compartment, so the stock sized fan doesn't bother me, will it be ok to keep that fan and run a 12" flex a lite fan on the ac side and on that same side run a 12 " pusher fan ? Will a 12" pusher even fit in front of the ac condenser ?