Resolved Best Stock ECU for a 1990 Eagle Talon TSi (Manual)

[triggerx]

I figured I'd make a different thread since this information would be good for anyone with 90 turbo AWD DSM (manual).

In the process of trying to figure out why my car's idle doesn't hold and what appears to be an intermittent injector issue, I've come to the conclusion that my ECU is suspect.
I plan on replacing it or repairing it, although I realize it would be good to have 2 solid ECUs for troubleshooting since this isn't the first time it has been replaced. I've attempted to contact ECMTuning a few days ago so I'm still waiting on a response from them, but in the mean time I'm exploring other options.

My question is whether or not the build quality of newer model ECUs are better than the 90's version? I believe Steve has mentioned in a previous thread that the caps are less likely to leak in the younger 1g models, but should I actively look for a 94 ECU versus a 90?

I do understand that a few pins need to be swapped around in the harness to allow it to work properly which I've done before. Are there any other components or sensors that become "deleted" from the change or are they completely the same.

Down below are some average costs of re-manufactured ECUs I have been looking at. I'm also curious if anyone has any experience with the CARDONE reman ECU or Blue Streak.

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Thanks,

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

All the sensors are the same for the 1g ECUs but you will swap 2 pins for use in a 1990.

I have 1 Cardone ECU but I think it was recapped then link installed in it. It IS always good to have a spare ECU for our cars if you can pick one up reasonably. An EPROM unit is more desired if you are looking as they usually have a socket holding the main chip in compared to having an ECU socketed but the guys at ECMTuning are VERY good at what they do and socketed one of my 90 ECUs for Link.

This is a socketed ECU.

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[steve]

The key item to remember is that the later (91-94) ECUs cause problems with the 90 gauge cluster tach and need additional modifications to either the ECU or the ignition system to work correctly.

All 1G ECUs need the capacitors replaced but the 90 ECUs seem to have a unique tendency to have the capacitor closest to the heatsink short and burn up the ECU. Replacing them is critical.

The preferred 1990 ECUs are MD145903 or MD128625. EPROM if you can find one. These are the Federal emissions versions for AWD or FWD.

Marty's ECU above is for a GVR4 MD165810. All of them were EPROM versions and allow you to run the stock DSM software or DSMLink just by socketing and changing the EPROM chip, but they are rarer than any DSM EPROM ECU.

Based on what came in to me, none of the "professional" rebuilt ECUs was worth anything. Their business model seemed to be change the caps as quickly as possible, ignore anything else and when they fail, give the customer another (if it's still under warranty). Quantity over quality.

If your lucky you get one that isn't corroded to heck but due to the warranty sticker you can't check to see.