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Beginner tuner question

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trunks

15+ Year Contributor
130
0
Apr 4, 2007
Annandale, Minnesota
So I've been taking the eclipse out and running logs on link in third gear to redline and I'm having an issue that I'm not sure what it exactly is. I believe it's a problem holding boost but after searching for two nights I'm still not sure.

The car pulls hard up to about 17 psi and then drops. The strange part is the engine continues to rev higher very quickly. It feels like it falls out of gear almost at that point. It actually first happened to me on the freeway just cruising I stepped on it in 5th gear just a little and it had no boost and rev'd like in neutral. My first thought was transmission which I'm praying it isn't. If I lay of the gas it drives fine so I don't think that's it.

Thanks for any help!
 
Try going from 2nd gear and then go straight to 5th gear and mash on it. see what happens. You'll know if it slips or not.
 
I'm not sure on the mileage on the ACT, but the car had many miles on it when I bought it so that might be it. I've been reading about extending slave rods, is that an option?
 
Sorry man, I've got the log on my prehistoric labtop and I can't get it transfered. My wife is trying to figure it out though, and she's a lot smarter than me. Should have it soon hopefully..

What data on it is the important stuff?
 
This sounds like 100% signs of a slipping clutch.

Did it to me, car drove fine DD and when I WOT her she would go up at 4500 ish rpms she would free rev with 0 power as if I was in neutrel.

Pulled the clutch it was toast CFDF FTL
 
extended slave cylinder rods have nothing in matters with the fact that your clutch is slipping or not... that amost for the pressure plate release system ( that means easiers shifting and clutch release. ) the thing is that the rod is longer than the stock one in application with an aftermarket clutch system upgrade. much longer rod equals to much release from the pressure plate to the clutch
 
One other thing is that it seems like the clutch lets out at different depths when I'm driving. Or is that my imagination?
 
sounds like the clutch is on its way out. this happened to me as well and when i took out the clutch, i found out i was grinding away the rivots on the clutch disk. ops, but anyway i put a act 2600 in and never shimmed the clutch arm pivot ball. now the clutch grabs an inch of the floor and theres nothing i can do about it, becides pull the tranny and shimming it with a lock washer.
just a little advice though, when you replace your clutch make sure to shim the pivot ball.
 
Alright, sounds like it's the clutch then for sure. That makes the most sense anyway now that I think about it - it's the first manual I've owned. It sucks since it just cranked up the boost and was starting to make some power on the thing.

Thanks to everyone for the help!
 
You see at 4448 the rpm's start to increase faster than before that point? This continues untill 6292 rpm's which is right where/before you let off since the rpm's start to drop soon after. This is saying that the clutch is slipping.

Is there a reason you had to convert the file type to .doc instead of the .dat?
 
Thanks for looking at the log. I'm not sure why we had to make it a doc. We were reading the faq on how to post logs and I think that's where she got it from.

Two other questions:

That flywheel is acutally brand new. If I try to limp it throught the summer will it damage it to where it needs to be resurfaced or is it too late already?

Second, dsmlink is giving me some crazy numbers on the horsepower before it slips. I assume that that's not the most accurate way to tell..(dyno the best).
 
I just realised this is in the newbie section. You can't upload .dat files in this section. That is why it had to be converted. The tuning section you can upload the .dat files though.

It probably needs to be resurfaced already.

Dsmlink's horsepower estimates are not accurate. The only thing I use them for is to tell if I made more power by changing the tune. You have to be on a flat road. Do a pull. Change whatever settings in the tune you want. Then do another pull on the same part of the road in the same direction. If the horsepower estimate went up you are making more power. But the actual number is not accurate.
 
Thanks for looking at the log. I'm not sure why we had to make it a doc. We were reading the faq on how to post logs and I think that's where she got it from.

Two other questions:

That flywheel is acutally brand new. If I try to limp it throught the summer will it damage it to where it needs to be resurfaced or is it too late already?

Second, dsmlink is giving me some crazy numbers on the horsepower before it slips. I assume that that's not the most accurate way to tell..(dyno the best).

Have you signed up for the dsmlink forums? If not you should asap!

The horsepower numbers is a rough estimate based on your airflow. Yours is way far off. Make HP one of your values if it's not already and right click and go to props. Fill out that information according to your spec.
 
Okay thanks again. I want to go onto the dsmlink forums, but everytime I go there to register I get 'registration disabled by the admistrator' so no go on that.

I'm still playing with it so I assumed that my logs were messed up, plus the gm maf is making my life difficult as well. I'm still getting negative numbers for my boost est. and a/f ratio sits on 18:1 all the time while my wideband says otherwise. I believe it's because that is set to read at the maf which is messing it up but I haven't figured out how to change that to the o2 yet.

Is there something I don't know in order to get on the dsmlink forum?
 
Okay thanks again. I want to go onto the dsmlink forums, but everytime I go there to register I get 'registration disabled by the admistrator' so no go on that.

I'm still playing with it so I assumed that my logs were messed up, plus the gm maf is making my life difficult as well. I'm still getting negative numbers for my boost est. and a/f ratio sits on 18:1 all the time while my wideband says otherwise. I believe it's because that is set to read at the maf which is messing it up but I haven't figured out how to change that to the o2 yet.

Is there something I don't know in order to get on the dsmlink forum?

You need to email the support staff with the info. I hope you kept the box with the ID: number. go to dsmlink.com and find out the info you need to email them to register. It's a forum where ONLY dsmlink owners can join.
 
Okay thanks again. I want to go onto the dsmlink forums, but everytime I go there to register I get 'registration disabled by the admistrator' so no go on that.
You have to contact either admin after purchasing the product, to registration and gain access. It's a private board, so you can't just show up and register like you can here.
 
Okay, one more stupid question if I may. I noticed what I believe to be an oil leak on the botton of the transmission - I'm assuming rear main seal is leaking out of the bell housing. I've only had the car back two weeks and had to add a quart tonight. You can flame me, but that oil in there couldn't cause my clutch to slip, correct?

Be gentle..
 
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