The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Battery drain after tranny install?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Rengar18

15+ Year Contributor
261
1
Jun 8, 2009
Lancaster, California
So I installed a TRE tranny a couple weeks ago and during the install the connector to the engine coolant temp sensor was ripped out of the sensor and the clip that connects to the sensor was smashed. Leaving me with just the wire of the connector and the intact temp sensor inside the motor.

Since this has been disconnected I have had a hard time starting the motor (takes multiple cranks to get it started and I can only give it light throttle for about 5 mins or it dies) Before this I had no problems starting the motor and it ran great and no drain.

While its running I have a check engine light (the sensor) and both radiator fans are always on. With me driving the bat drains from 12v to 7v and below in abt 20 mins driving time.(reading the voltage via evoscan)

I disconnected both rad fans connectors to stop the fans hoping that would solve this until the sensor connector came and it held steady at 11-12v for about 25mins time and then it fell RAPIDLY to 8v and lower in a matter of 10mins!!

Really not sure whats causing this. The alternator is about 3 months old (rebuilt) Battery is about 6 months (ive had it charged about 10 times from dead since this has happaned) Dont have any alarms or crazy sound systems. Pretty much stock car (in my profile).

Also let me note my alternator fuse(100a) got really hot all of a sudden a few days ago randomly.. melting the plastic in the fuse box some. I think I had the screws that hold the fuse put in wrong or something (im also using generic screws from autozone in it, I believe there the same material but not sure) I replaced the fuse and its not getting hot anymore but...

Also I was driving it earlier to test the battery and the negative terminal came off the battery becuase I didnt tightin it enough.

Sorry for the long post btw, going to up some pics shortly.
 
Sounds like you have a lot going on. Multiple problems.

Coolant temp sensor will trigger the CEL, cause the rough start because the ECU thinks it -40 degrees outside and cause the engine to run rich, along with turning the fans on high speed.

Draining the battery multiple times isn't really good for the battery and could possibly have weakened the batteries ability to properly hold a charge. If the battery has a warranty replace it or take and get the it tested.

The ground was always loose? This could have cause the high resistance problem and the B+ to overheat.
 
Yea that's my next step, take the bat to get replaced. Took out some fuses to see if it'll help. Testing now. Also it was only loose for a little while. after I replace the terminal and took it for a ten min drive to test it. Posting up pics in abt 15 mins
 
the ground to the bellhousing was reconnected. I just realized though that this started happaning after the alternator fuse got real hot and melted the fuse box some. Im going to get it tested again. What is a normal reading for a good alternator? All the door locks/radio work fine and the headlights arent super bright. How would i know its bad and draining the bat?
 
Im not sure, I've really never had a good working alternator haha. look it up in the haynes book if you can to be sure but whenever my alternator goes out all the warning lights in the dash are on and my lights pulsate. sometimes the alternator sounds like its falling apart too. you can take the alternator to any good parts store and they will test if for free.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top