2G Battery Charging Issue

[killios11]

Hey guys,
This may sound stupidly simple but I can’t figure it out and my shop couldn’t either. If there’s already a thread tag it but I couldn’t find anything.

I have a new alternator, battery, and belt in the car but it will literally die while I’m driving. I’m used to older cars where there’s a power, ground, and signal on the alternator so I’m not sure what the harness on the alternator leads to. I know some newer cars have alternators ran to the ECU and sensors to only turn on when needed, so if that’s the case with these cars that could be my issue or it could be a bad wire/connection somewhere.

Again, I know this sounds stupid but I literally listed my car for sale over this issue that sounds so simple so I would appreciate any help.

Also, the e-brake dash light and some other dash lights turn on before it dies and the battery only reads 12ish volts while running.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Is the alternator good some are new but are junk.

 

[dwb]

First make sure your battery terminals and leads are tight and not corroded. Also your grounds should be inspected for corrosion and tightness.
You can put a multimeter in volt DC mode across the battery terminals and see 13-14 volts with the engine running and minimal accessories. Any more or less and your alternator is not charging properly and should be replaced (assuming you have clean/tight connections per above).
Even new/reman alternators can be faulty. It may bench-test OK, but still not work properly when up to temperature. A telltale sign is when random lights start illuminating on the dash.

 

[pauleyman]

Check the fusible link for the alternator. It's a bolt in fuse so don't just yank it. Charging system is simple. Did you check voltage at the alternator? If it's putting out 14 but batt is 12 fusible link is my first suspect. If a shop couldn't figure this out maybe time to get another shop.

 

[killios11]

Is the alternator good some are new but are junk.

Alternator, relay, and fuse are good. Tested the new alternator before installing and the old one after removing, both were good.

First make sure your battery terminals and leads are tight and not corroded. Also your grounds should be inspected for corrosion and tightness.
You can put a multimeter in volt DC mode across the battery terminals and see 13-14 volts with the engine running and minimal accessories. Any more or less and your alternator is not charging properly and should be replaced (assuming you have clean/tight connections per above).
Even new/reman alternators can be faulty. It may bench-test OK, but still not work properly when up to temperature. A telltale sign is when random lights start illuminating on the dash.

New battery and leads/cables. Alternator is definitely good, tested the new one before installing and the old one after removing it. Both tested perfect

Check the fusible link for the alternator. It's a bolt in fuse so don't just yank it. Charging system is simple. Did you check voltage at the alternator? If it's putting out 14 but batt is 12 fusible link is my first suspect. If a shop couldn't figure this out maybe time to get another shop.

Where might this be located? This is one thing I haven’t checked so it could be the issue

 

[chrysler kid]

Where might this be located? This is one thing I haven’t checked so it could be the issue

its the first fuse in the fuse box under the hood.

what kind of car do you have, what motor?

the alternator can still be bad and test good, especially for our cars. the brush tolerances can go out of range when hot and not make enough contact to generate charge. alternators need to be tested on vehicle to see what voltage they are making. having them bench tested is not a good indication of alternator health for our cars

 

[pauleyman]

Where might this be located? This is one thing I haven’t checked so it could be the issue

Please check the faq or resource sections. That's where I found this.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-2g-fuse-box-diagrams-cover-diagram-fuses.310956/