Bad idle

[Tigerhorns]

I have a video i made put it on youtube, and here is the link. YouTube - 91 Eagle Talon Tsi rough idle

If you see the video on youtube itself in the description i have alot of info on the car.

just wanna throw in there when i am on a hill, and i start my car i have to hold the brake, and give it a little gas to keep it from stalling out until it hits even ground.

 

[BLINKY619]

see and thats what i thought, but the guy who did the work on my car said it was ok told me i had a non turbo air intake manifold, and there was no nipple for him to put it into on there.

omfg... dam duede can you snap a picture off your engine bay? see how its looking

 

[Tigerhorns]

its a plastic tee and the other connector over the valve cover which u can see in my pictures in my profile is a plastic piece too. i have to wait until later on today so i can go over to where i keep my car so i can take the pic, but ill get some

and where exactly should it be hooking into on the air intake manifold the right side? how many nipples should i have on my air intake manifold? and where are they i guess is the better questions for me to be asking

When i hook in the wideband im going to have to drill into my exhaust and all that what would i do when i go to change my exhaust out

 

[boostNmetal]

Put the stock injectors back in until you have the AFC properly installed.

 

[Tigerhorns]

If i had the stock injectors the guy who did my work stole them from me. im lookin at 664.97 for full exhaust ima wait to install the wideband

 

[boostNmetal]

If you no longer have the stock injectors, you need to install the AFC right away. You need to compensate for your larger injectors. This is the reason your car is running like crap.

 

[gofer]

Heres the SAFC Pin out I came up with after looking a the 1g ECU pinout, just bounce it off that VFAQ for correctiveness.

From the SAFC TO the ECU connector

• 12V Signal (RED) - Tap into Pin 102 or 107 (RED)
  
• Ground 1 (BROWN) - Tap into Pin 101 or 106 (BLACK)
  
• Ground 2 (BLACK) - Tap into the same wire (101 or 106) that you did for the BROWN wire coming off the SAFC just further away from the ECU harness. ITS IMPORTANT THAT YOU DO IT FURTHER UP THE WIRE THAN THE BROWN ONE, AT LEAST 10" TO 12" APART.
  
• RPM Signal (GREEN) - Tap into Pin 21 (BLACK)
  
• Throttle Pos (GRAY) - Tap into Pin 19 (GREEN/WHITE)
  
• Knock Sensor (PURPLE) - Tap into Pin 9 (WHITE)
  
• A/F to ECU (PINK) - CUT wire going into Pin 10 (GREEN/BLUE) appox. 3" from the connector. Then tap this wire into the connector side of the cut wire...
  
• A/F to Sensor (ORANGE) - Tap into the harness side of the (GREEN/BLUE) wire you just cut.

When your tapping into a wire at the ECU be sure to do it a few inches back from the connector. I also recommend soldering/heat shrinking ALL your connections since the last thing you want is a bad signal coming into the ECU when your WOT. Use this 90-94 ECU pin out diagram of the ECU with wire colors and pin numbers to follow along with the above info I gave you. 1g 90-94 ECU pin out

 

[boostNmetal]

Heres the SAFC Pin out I came up with after looking a the 1g ECU pinout, just bounce it off that VFAQ for correctiveness.

From the SAFC TO the ECU connector

• 12V Signal (RED) - Tap into Pin 102 or 107 (RED)
  
• Ground 1 (BROWN) - Tap into Pin 101 or 106 (BLACK)
  
• Ground 2 (BLACK) - Tap into the same wire (101 or 106) that you did for the BROWN wire coming off the SAFC just further away from the ECU harness. ITS IMPORTANT THAT YOU DO IT FURTHER UP THE WIRE THAN THE BROWN ONE, AT LEAST 10" TO 12" APART.
  
• RPM Signal (GREEN) - Tap into Pin 21 (BLACK)
  
• Throttle Pos (GRAY) - Tap into Pin 19 (GREEN/WHITE)
  
• Knock Sensor (PURPLE) - Tap into Pin 9 (WHITE)
  
• A/F to ECU (PINK) - CUT wire going into Pin 10 (GREEN/BLUE) appox. 3" from the connector. Then tap this wire into the connector side of the cut wire...
  
• A/F to Sensor (ORANGE) - Tap into the harness side of the (GREEN/BLUE) wire you just cut.

When your tapping into a wire at the ECU be sure to do it a few inches back from the connector. I also recommend soldering/heat shrinking ALL your connections since the last thing you want is a bad signal coming into the ECU when your WOT. Use this 90-94 ECU pin out diagram of the ECU with wire colors and pin numbers to follow along with the above info I gave you. 1g 90-94 ECU pin out

+1! I fully agree with the solder and heatshrink for all connections.

 

[Tigerhorns]

I attempted to make a boost leak tester it worked i got the gauge to go up to 10 pounds just didnt apply to much pressure, because i didnt know how much was going in the car. enjoy the pics. and it leaked in about 12 seconds i would say, but air was spraying out that hose on the left side of the valve cover.

First picture look in the dead middle there is a screw of sort missing is that bad? ITS BETWEEN THE 2 LINES WHERE THE LIGHT IS SHINING

second picture is the boost leak tester i rigged together. Allso i was told to take the line out of the left hand side of the valve cover, and replace it with one of those little filters.

third picture is of the plastic tee from the pcv valve to bov/ air intake manifold. THE COLOR WHITE IS THE TEE

fourth picture is just another shot. THE COLOR WHITE IS THE TEE

My sticker on the outside of the ecu is blue with black number/letter and has a E on it. I forgot to write down the numbers, but does the E mean its a E-prom?


My boost leak tester was a
2inch plastic coupler
2inch rubber coupler
2inch diameter screw in cap
and piece of pvc pipe.
valve stem

ran about 20 bucks worked good as far as i know, and yes i sprayed with soapy water all over no bubbles

THESE PICS ARE OFF OF MY FRIEND PHONE I WILL GO OVER THERE TOMORROW, AND USE MY CAMERA

 

[gofer]

If your ECU is the following P/N's its more than likely an EPROM ECU but to really now for sure you'll want to pull it apart and look...
MD145902, MD145903, MD165529, MD165531, MD165532, MD166260, MD166262, MD166263, MD193296, MD193297, MD193298, MD193299, MD193300, MD304482, MD304484, MD165810, & MD165811.

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The pictures you provided were so small I couldn't see them at all... How was the air spraying out of the hose coming from the VC, is it not connected to anything?

 

[Tigerhorns]

It was connected to my air intake. allso i was told to close it off on the air intake, and put a filter on it should i do that?

is pulling the ecu apart as easy as (pulling the cover off) my cover says MD165531 far as what it says inside i dont know

and E943 are the only number i should see?

allso on the air intake i have there are 3 ports minus the recirc port. one of them didnt have a cap or a line going in to it, and it was by itself on the left hand side, so i put a cap on it

I was told today that if i have air leaking from the the line on the upper top left valve cover im getting air in my crank case that being said i pulled the OIL DIPSTICK up, and when i did the boost leak test air was blowing through it. I took the radiator cap off, and no air cam through that at all. I have never had a problem with the dipstick comming up then again i personly have only put 400 miles on the car.

Photos i took today i got 3 video i will have posted up within like 1 hour

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcwsHrO7npw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KluuM5Z6OBM

When i did the boost leak i pulled my dipstick up, and there was air blowing out of it ><

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERnPhwfUcuo

 

[Tigerhorns]

I had a bad oring on top of the throttle body, and pcv valve hose was a big hole in it. Car runs 20 pounds now.

 

[gofer]

Good to hear man. I'm sorry I didn't post up any further guidance last night, I was getting ready to jump into bed and got a headache and the chills all of the sudden. I read through your post but decided that it was probably a better idea to get some sleep rather than stay up and type any longer...

One thing I did want to mention though is that your upper intercooler piping is a radiator hose and should be replaced immediately. The reason being is if that thing splits while your driving it WILL leave you stranded because your car won't work with an ENORMOUS boost leak like that. You can buy just UICP or LICP but if you get a FMIC kit it comes with both upper and lower hard pipes and the FMIC.

I also had a hard time following what you were saying in the video and its a lot easier to see how things are connected in your car if you draw a simple diagram of it in paint. If your intake manifold is really off of a N/T 1g then tap the bov into your fuel pressure solenoid vacuum line not your PCV valve.

 

[Tigerhorns]

Well working on these cars causes me to drink alot of beer, so ill be stuttering, and saying crap i dont even mean to be saying, and when i get back here i laugh, but im not gunna go back later, and remake the video you know

Hope you feel better bro

I was thinking about just getting the UICP from punishment racing for 134, cause right now i dont have the 400 for the front mount

allso i need to get some more pics to show you how i made that bov line work with where it was.

John O with Dsmchips.com told me i had a eprom ecu, but it was for a 5speed. said it could cause some idle problems

Allso im getting my SAFC put in with the diagram you gave me above Friday. gunna try to get the wideband put in. That being said should i get a chip from dsmchips.com the stage 3 one, or a logger, or that UPIC what order should i go in?

My pedal was stuck too i had so much slack in my throttle cable to my pedal i never got to drive WOT, but i fixed that. car feels like its driving really good, and strong sounded good. little dark colored smoke comming from the back im thinking oil only at idle though like after i came back from drivin WOT for like 10 mins .

Do you think i should do a compression test when i was doing the BLT when i pulled the dipstick out i felt air comming out of it, but not when i took the radiator cap off.

Where can i get a fuel pressure gauge to put over my fuel filter?

 

[gofer]

Getting that UICP from PR probably isn't a bad idea, especially if your going to be DD'ing the car. You might be able to save some money and go to a parts yard and find some stock 1g IC pipes, just make sure they aren't cracked.
I hate to go against John O but a MD165531 is a Federal A/T (AWD) EPROM ECU part number, the M/T ECU part numbers were MD166260 (FWD) or MD166262 (AWD). I know your cars a TSi and not AWD but the differences between the 1g A/T FWD and AWD ECU's were minor and wouldn't be noticed when your driving it around. Whatever the case maybe getting a burned chip from him is basically going to do the same thing as installing your SAFC and your still going to need a logger. All those features might seem like a good deal but they are BURNED into the chip meaning you can't go in there yourself and reprogram it which is why dsmlink v3lite is worth the little extra.

Heres what causes blowby...
Pressure in the crankcase doesn't always mean excessive blowby, here is what can cause excessive crankcase pressure.

• If your getting really bad blowby its probably your piston rings.
• Intake pressure leaks, PCV valve or intake valve seals.
• Poor crankcase ventilation which it typically due to improper routing of the PCV system.

I'm not sure about your fuel pressure gauge question, I run mine off of my adjustable fuel pressure regulator (afpr).