ECMlink Back to Link, back to dumb questions

[LandoAWD]

Alright, so I've been unhappy with a bit of breaking up in higher RPMs so I decided I'd start Link from scratch, and retune the car.

I present to you, a warm-up/drive/idle log for review. I have a random miss at part throttle in this log and was wondering if you all get anything from the Link config at that time (308s-ish)

 

[gofer]

Kris, you're using the old ECMLink firmware, update it because its A LOT nicer somehow and you can make use of the AFREst for tuning DA MaxOct maps. Its a bit overwhelming if you've never done it before, I'll post a step by step for you just in case.

First download the most recent stable version v3.21.40 and then download early access v3.21.109 from the ECMLink Downloads page. After doing this you'll want to update your firmware as well but to do so its a bit trickier than just clicking a link.

1. You'll want to submit a firmware request and to do it requires you to connect to your cars ECU. Click ECU from the drop down and click Create Firmware Request... paying close attention to where its saved on your computer.
2. Request Firmware Upgrade... and select Choose File and find your firmware file you just saved.
3. Download the new firmware to your desktop or somewhere you can easily access it and then open up ECMLink.
4. Click the ECU drop down menu and select Upgrade Firmware and then pick the file you just downloaded while your connected to the ECU in the car.

Throughout your log your CombinedFT's seem high, if you run the MAFComp Adjust tool you'll see the sliders are off from 500Hz to 1600Hz. I wouldn't be surprised if the misfire you saw was because of the sliders not be tuned correctly. Other than that, everything in the log looks good. Of course its personal preference but I think you should zero your fuel/timing sliders and solely use DA to tune desired FT's/timing, you'll get more resolution in part throttle. Once again, I know you've got some work into the timing maps, but load the stock 2g timing map and make changes to it where you need to relative to knock going WOT.

 

[LandoAWD]

Good deal. My software version is all good, but I'll do the firmware update and then zero out the timing and fuel.

I will be asking questions about the DA tables, but will also be researching so as not to come off like a total dink.

 

[LandoAWD]

All recommended fixes/updates done. CombinedF/T is still a bit high (3%+), but I don't think the ECU has sufficiently adjusted to all the zero-outs and such. I'll repost a log on Monday and begin to dig at DA tuning.

Despite my extensive tech background, something about screwing with the tables on my DD just gets me a bit rattled.

 

[snowborder714]

As long as you make smart changes and monitor your AFR/timing, you'll have no problem. Can't wait to see a new log!

 

[gofer]

All recommended fixes/updates done. CombinedF/T is still a bit high (3%+), but I don't think the ECU has sufficiently adjusted to all the zero-outs and such. I'll repost a log on Monday and begin to dig at DA tuning.

Despite my extensive tech background, something about screwing with the tables on my DD just gets me a bit rattled.

You can manually reset your AFR's, which you should do, while you make changes to MAFComp or deadtimes to line up CombinedFT and AirflowPerRev.

Click ECU from the drop down menu, then select Reset fuel trims...

 

[LandoAWD]

I forgot that was there. In order...drive home, drive back to work, idle log.

I MAFComp'd after the work drive, then let the idle run. I checked MAFComp after the idle (offline) and noted a couple of lower points had shifted. I'll line these up.

 

[gofer]

Damn, that was a quick drive home, it looks like your car finally hit operating temp when you pulled in the driveway.

Running a GM MAF you could do MAFComp adjust with every log and come up with changes, thats just the nature of the beast since it doesn't account for temp/baro changes. Just like the Showtime Rotisserie, set it and forget it!

Your AirflowPerRev at idle is right where it needs to be, CombinedFT's are negative though, so your MAFComp adjust tool is going to tell you to bring your 500-600Hz sliders down a bit. This will line up CombinedFT but then your AirflowPerRev will inflate. To richen up the mix, getting CombinedFT closer to 0%, drop your injector deadtimes to 400usecs. Then adjust them, up or down, to get CombinedFT to 0% and once its good to go.

SET IT AND FORGET IT!

 

[LandoAWD]

I live close. I figured the second log would be a better barometer.

Deadtime this afternoon. I'm not a weekend internet user, though.

I'm going to pop in some plugs this weekend, and maybe put the daggone mudflaps on, and I'll report back.

I do know that, at the very least, 26 psi lifts the head...or at worst I have a HG issue...but I'll snag a WOT log too.

 

[LandoAWD]

420 on the deadtime had it cycling a bit closer.

Didn't do a thing to the car over the weekend.

Putting this here for archival, no analysis needed.

 

[gofer]

No analysis needed... but you're getting it anyway.

Is your WB logging in link exactly whats its displaying on the gauge going WOT? If it is, and you're running pump gas, the cars really leaning out. Your OpenLoopMaxOct table shooting for 10.2:1 AFR's and your WB is logging anywhere from 11:1 ~ 12:1, that means you need to do some more work with your MAFComp sliders in the higher Hz areas. This is also evident by looking at your BoostEst value since I'm 100% sure you aren't running 37.5psi on pump gas.

You can use Jeff GS-T MAFCal to tune the higher Hz ranges. Its a little bit of reading but it will get your MAF sliders tuned in the higher Hz ranges so your DA AFR's will match what your WB is showing. Then, once you get MAFComp tuned, you can start tuning your AFR's using DA and be good to go at the track.

 

[LandoAWD]

27psi, actually. I'll have a look at the calc. Just trying to archive here for progression purposes.

Thanks, as always.

 

[DSMTyson]

Dang, this thread is helping me out a lot with tuning my own car! Good luck with your tuning lando!

 

[LandoAWD]

Thus the archiving.

The car was "pretty good" and damned quick, but I got the bug to mess with it.

Forgot to answer the other bits in the post above.

From Jeff's calc, I'm getting -.19, so 19% down on the sliders. Will do.

WB02 won't display below 11 and I've never, ever seen a number on the gauge during a pull. Link only reads to to 10.7, IIRC.

 

[gofer]

The AEM UEGO's parameters are 10:1~18:1 and getting them to log accurately is a PITA, thats why I was asking if you had ever paid attention to the gauge during a WOT pull. To get mine to log accurately I locked it in open loop and then changed the injector globals to make it go rich and idle at 11.5:1. Then played with LinearWB settings until my AEM UEGO lined up with what was actually being logged. I had to use LinearWB because none of the ECMLink provided AEM WB parameters logged correctly with mine for some reason.

You not attempting to check out the WB during a WOT pull cracks me up. I can understand maybe your boost gauge, since once its set your good, but the WB! haha. If you could, without running over a child, watch the gauge at a specific RPM and then remembering what it read compare it to what was logged at that RPM later. This way you can tell if the logged AFR's coming from your WB match what the cars actual AFR's are.

Make those MAFComp changes in the higher Hz points and lets see another balls to the wall pull!

 

[LandoAWD]

You not attempting to check out the WB during a WOT pull cracks me up. I can understand maybe your boost gauge, since once its set your good, but the WB! haha. If you could, without running over a child, watch the gauge at a specific RPM and then remembering what it read compare it to what was logged at that RPM later. This way you can tell if the logged AFR's coming from your WB match what the cars actual AFR's are.

You misread.

I've never seen a number because my gauge reads to 11.0 then dips to bars on the display.

 

[snowborder714]

I still vote you get an LC-1

 

[LandoAWD]

If I could ban you...

 

[UofACATS]

I MAFComp'd after the work drive

Damn, that was a quick drive home, it looks like your car finally hit operating temp when you pulled in the driveway.

CombinedFT's are negative though, so your MAFComp adjust tool is going to tell you to bring your 500-600Hz sliders down a bit.

LandoAWD, don't dismiss getting your car up to operating temp before logging to run the MAFcomp feature. (do not include warm-up in the log you'll use to run the feature). This is because of the CoolantTempFuelAdj (available in direct access) which adjusts fuel based on coolant temps. With an operating temp of 149º which we see at the start of the log, the car is automatically adding fuel. This will be shown in the MAFcomp adjustment, and call for lower MAFcomp points erroneously.

 

[LandoAWD]

Noted.

For giggles, I punched the throttle as the WB post(s) had me wondering, and the richest I saw in the short 2nd gear romp was 11.5 on the gauge. It then occurred to me that making a statement that broad, based on the tune I had on for a long time, isn't wise.

 

[LandoAWD]

Wait, wait, wait...-19 on the sliders in the upper Hz ranges puts me around -30. Wouldn't that be lying to the ECU to indicate less airflow, thus removing fuel from an already lean condition?

 

[snowborder714]

Yes.

 

[LandoAWD]

Yeah, I thought my half-assed comprehension had that right.

I'll not be doing that.

 

[snowborder714]

Can you get a full 3rd gear pull in at all?

 

[LandoAWD]

I'm sure I can.

Knock CEL is always there for me. I'll get one.