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autometer cobalt boost gauge ?'s

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mgcook

15+ Year Contributor
120
1
Oct 5, 2005
Charlotte, North Carolina
i have been reading up on these gauges (i have the boost and egt's) its saying that the red wire is supposed to be wired to a constant source while the starter is being engaged, eh.

i have found this thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140784&highlight=cobalt

but no one answered the question clearly, so i'd like to know where i can tap into a source that have constant power while the car is cranking up. i dont have a TT or anything like that.
 
Connect the red power wire to a switched +12 volt source that maintains power during engine cranking. Most vehicles break the electrical connection to accessories while the engine is being started. If the boost gauge is connected to one of these circuits, the auto zero function will not work properly and inaccurate readings will result. To determine whether a switched source maintains power during starting, look for electrical accessories in the vehicle that remain on while the engine is being started. Connect the red power wire to the same circuit that powers one of these accessories. The connection can be tested by turning the key switch from off to on, the pointer will move backward to the stop pin and then move to zero. Once the pointer has reached zero, start the engine. If the pointer reads vacuum without returning to the stop pin, a suitable connection has been found. If the pointer moves to the stop pin and then reads vacuum, another power circuit must be found.

-http://www.autometer.com/download_instruction/569.pdf
 
so basically after i find a source, i have to wait a sec before each time i start the car? or after i find the source, if it sweeps then i have a good connection?
 
That's one of the downsides of "universal gauges," it's pretty much hit or miss. Just keep trying until you find a source. A multimeter would come in handy for this. Just connect it to the suspected source and watch the voltage readout as you start the car.
 
wire it into the headlights, or the parking lights, its a good source and its always safe to have your lights on so the other retards on the road can see you, i wired my stereo this way and i love it i dont have to have my keys, just click the lights on and i have music, just a thought

and you dont have the pop up lights in the 93, so it wont look too tacky
 
kronix0420 said:
wire it into the headlights, or the parking lights, its a good source and its always safe to have your lights on so the other retards on the road can see you, i wired my stereo this way and i love it i dont have to have my keys, just click the lights on and i have music, just a thought

and you dont have the pop up lights in the 93, so it wont look too tacky

...

I've heard alot of stuff, but that one is different. I'll give you credit for being unique.
 
2gGSX said:
Constant power can be had at the cig lighter.
Well, after reviewing Autometer's instructions, it seems that they are not calling for the red wire to be connected to a constant power source. It states to connect the red wire to a "switched 12 volt source that maintains power during engine cranking". That leads me to believe that they are looking for an ignition power source that maintains voltage while starting the engine.

I currently have mine wired to a constant via the battery. But I have a constant draw somewhere and I feel that is why. I would recommend following the Autometer directions instead of wiring them to a constant 12v source.
 
wire it into the power antenna wire in you r cdplayer ( also known as remote for ampliphiers{sp?} )

that is switched 12v power and easily accessable
 
kronix0420 said:
wire it into the power antenna wire in you r cdplayer ( also known as remote for ampliphiers{sp?} )

that is switched 12v power and easily accessable
Bad thing about that is then the gauges would only function with the radio turned on. That could pose as an inconvenience for some people. And I know for a fact that my radio loses is power with the engine cranking, so I doubt that it's external amplifier power wire would be any different.
 
i will just get out the volt meter this weekend when i get back home and try different sources
 
Well, it's been a while since I wired the gauge but the way I remember it was...
Black = ground, white = power, red = constant key on power
The white one I wired to the same green with white stripe wire everyone uses, and the red one I wired to the cig lighter. The white is switch power for the lightning, so it only turns on while the light is on whereas the red wire you want to connect to something that receives power all the time, that way the gauge will work when your lights are off.
 
2gGSX said:
Well, it's been a while since I wired the gauge but the way I remember it was...
Black = ground, white = power, red = constant key on power
The white one I wired to the same green with white stripe wire everyone uses, and the red one I wired to the cig lighter. The white is switch power for the lightning, so it only turns on while the light is on whereas the red wire you want to connect to something that receives power all the time, that way the gauge will work when your lights are off.
Actually, it's more like this:
Black = ground, white = 12v power for dash lighting, red = switched 12v power source.

It doesn't look like Autometer is recommending to connect the red wire to a constant 12v power source. It looks like they want it connected to a 12v ignition-switched power source that does not cut out with a cranking engine. I am not sure what wire/circuit that would be, but in light of this, I plan to re-wire my gauges come spring. Hopefully that will fix my constant power draw problem.
 
99gst_racer said:
Actually, it's more like this:
Black = ground, white = 12v power for dash lighting, red = switched 12v power source.

It doesn't look like Autometer is recommending to connect the red wire to a constant 12v power source. It looks like they want it connected to a 12v ignition-switched power source that does not cut out with a cranking engine. I am not sure what wire/circuit that would be, but in light of this, I plan to re-wire my gauges come spring. Hopefully that will fix my constant power draw problem.

I think we misunderstood each other, when I said red=key on power I think I meant the same thing as switched 12v power source.
The cig lighter is only active when the key is set to on position (or while car's running), and thus I used the term "constant on" wrong. Not trying to kick a dead horse, just want to make sure I'm not misunderstanding how to correctly wire everything.
 
2gGSX said:
I think we misunderstood each other, when I said red=key on power I think I meant the same thing as switched 12v power source.
The cig lighter is only active when the key is set to on position (or while car's running), and thus I used the term "constant on" wrong. Not trying to kick a dead horse, just want to make sure I'm not misunderstanding how to correctly wire everything.

a regular switched 12v source is fine for regular mechanical boost gauges, but in my case mine is a eletrical and needs to have a power source that stays constant during start up
 
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