auto tensioner push rod gap

[98mitsubishigst]

Can someone send a picture of the Gap its talking about? like what to measure? i saw a thread before with a picture from someone who showed very clearly where to stick the drill bit...

Thanks

 

[knochgoon24]

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http://vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html

 

[98mitsubishigst]

ahh i see, now my drill bits come in 1/16 5/64 3/32 1/16 5/64 1/16 5/64 3/32 7/64 1/8 9/64 5/32 11/64 3/16 and up.. what would i use.. sorry im like a moron when it comes to drill bits

 

[luv2rallye]

Save yourself a lot of frustration with the drill bit and just read the paragraph "Sometimes measuring the distance..." of http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...5-timing-belt-tensioning-tips-4g63-turbo.html

 

[98mitsubishigst]

so what ## saying is, after i pull the pin.. crank the motor a few times, let it sit and if i can stick the pin back in and out its set?

 

[tunethis]

so what ## saying is, after i pull the pin.. crank the motor a few times, let it sit and if i can stick the pin back in and out its set?

I've used that method on my 1g. However, I leave the pin in until I'm done. After turning the engine over by hand, I let it sit for 15 minutes then check the gap. If the pin still moves freely, I remove the pin. That way, if I messed up somehow, I wouldn't have to waste a lot of time re-compressing the tensioner to put the pin back in.

 

[98mitsubishigst]

i really dont understand this.. can someone like call me or something ... damn

Rotate the tensioner pulley in a counterclockwise direction until the belt is taut and tighten the center bolt finger tight (Figure 18).

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i push it over with my hand correct? untill its tight,... then finger tight the bolt.


Then screw the tool in until it touches tensioner arm; then i torque till i can pull the pin, then i pull the pin and unscrew the tool... and that thing in the middle raises up... is that suppose to happen?

then i use the other special tool to put in those two little holes, turn it till they are both facing bottem center. then torque bolt to 35 pounds. correct?


afterwards i; turn crankshaft 1/4 counterclockwise, turn it clockwise until the timing marks are aligned.

NOW WHY DO I loosen what i just tightened?

Loosen the tensioner pulley bolt, then use the special tensioner tool and a torque wrench to apply 3.5 Nm (2.6 ft-lbs) of torque to the pulley (this puts a light tension on the timing belt). Tighten the tensioner pulley bolt to spec (48 Nm (35 ft-lbs)) (Figure 20).

what i really need to know is, after you use the tensioner tool to remove the pin, after you remove the pin, should the little thing in the middle go up?

 

[98mitsubishigst]

Auto Tensioner, 3/8 drill bit.. am i good to go like put timing belt covers on and everything? No slack in timing belt anywhere what so ever.. as it should =D

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All timing marks are aligned.

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and for giggles, (balance shafts eliminated)

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[knochgoon24]

5/32" drill bit should fit
3/16" drill bit shouldn't fit

The 3/8" bit really isn't much of a judge of that.

And you had a thread relating to this last night, why not just post this in there?

 

[98mitsubishigst]

well my 3/16 barly fits..

 

[knochgoon24]

Spec is 0.150"-0.177"
3/16" = 0.1875"

You should probably retry and tighten up the tensioner pulley a bit more.

 

[luv2rallye]

so what ## saying is, after i pull the pin.. crank the motor a few times, let it sit and if i can stick the pin back in and out its set?

Yes but turn the crank sprocket clockwise with a socket wrench (spark plugs removed helps) - DON'T crank with starter.

Make sure you have all timing marks lined up (camshaft sprockets, crank sprocket, oil pump sprocket) both when you put the belt on and importantly, check this again after it sits fully tensioned for at least 15 minutes. After stretching, cam sprocket may now be off 1 tooth. Remember all timing marks only line up once every 6 crank revolutions.

The described proceedure in the VFAQ is very complicated (too much IMO) but it basically describes how to adjust the tensioner pulley so the distance between the tensioner arm and the auto tensioner body is correct (the drill bit diameter - .150-.177 in) - see figure 21. But you can replace all that with the following:

What I'm saying is how you adjust the tensioner pulley (whether you use a special tensioner rod tool, 90 degree needle pliers, hex key on pivot bolt, or what) isn't critical. What IS critical is the final measurement of that distance between the tensioner arm and the auto tensioner body (figure 21) after rotating crank sprocket to settle the belt. And that distance HAPPENS TO BE CORRECT when you can easily slide the hold down pin you used (5/64 allen wrench) through the auto tensioner body holes when the auto tensioner pushrod hole is aligned with them (figure 8) - This is the same place you put the hold down pin in when you installed the auto tensioner. This is all after belt stretching and final tensioner pulley adjustment is complete. Get it?

What I do is align all timing sprocket marks, tension belt (as above), rotate belt 1 complete rev (to settle in), wait 15 minutes, rotate crank 6 times to check timing marks, tension belt, rotate belt 1 complete rev, check tension, repeat rotate and check tension if needed.

 

[98mitsubishigst]

Loosen the tensioner pulley bolt, then use the special tensioner tool and a torque wrench to apply 3.5 Nm (2.6 ft-lbs) of torque to the pulley (this puts a light tension on the timing belt). Tighten the tensioner pulley bolt to spec (48 Nm (35 ft-lbs)) (Figure 20).


i dont have a torque wrench that woudl messure 2.6 pounds.. so let me ask you this..


the two holes on the pulley should be under the bolt..
how far to the right should they be after u torque 2.6 pounds/

 

[4g63t28]

Save yourself a lot of frustration with the drill bit and just read the paragraph "Sometimes measuring the distance..." of http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...5-timing-belt-tensioning-tips-4g63-turbo.html

I just battled a timing belt all day yesterday and this was the method I used and it worked well. I'd like to add that I found it worked best if I lined up the intake cam perfect, clipped the belt to the pulley, pulled the belt as tight as I could around the idler and oil pump. I had to rock the crank a tiny bit to get the teeth engaged then I pinched the belt between the crank pulley and auto tensioner with a 1/4" 14mm deep socket. Then I lined the exhaust pulley up perfect, clipped the belt to the pulley and then pushed the belt over the tensioner pulley with the special tool installed on the pulley so I could put tension on it. Proper tension seemed to be when the 1st pin hole in the pulley was just past the centerline of the bolt, but that's just my setup it should vary. I found that by doing the ex pulley towards the end and keeping the belt as tight as possible the ex cam didn't try and rotate counter clockwise pulling everything else off. Hope this helps some people in the future.

 

[onelowgst98]

i just replace my timing belt on my 98 eclipse gst and for some reason when i put the belt on it was tight. couple days later me and my dad sat the motor in the car and the belt had slack? so im like ! so when i put the crank shaft pulley on and tightend it down the belt automatically got tight?!! wtf is this normal?

 

[steve]

Don't forget that the base of the tensioner arm needs to be flat where it contacts the auto-tensioner pin.

On most of the cars I've seen there is a divot in the arm after 60k that needs to be welded up and ground flat or the arm needs to be replaced. If there is one it throws off the gap measurement since the pin would be more extended than it should be.

The pivot for the tensioner arm should also be greased when you change the belt, it's not listed anywhere but if you don't the pivot wears out causing the timing belt to walk on the cam sprockets and you'll have to replace the drivers side motor mount and tensioner arm.