The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

Auto/converter install issue

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

turboaddict21

15+ Year Contributor
172
1
Sep 6, 2004
Huntington, West_Virginia
Over the weekend I swapped out my 5spd setup in favor of an auto with a sinister converter. Got roughly 85% of the way through it, went to turn the motor over by hand and you can clearly hear a metal to metal grinding. We are stumped as to what it could be and have yet to be able to take the trans back out. Here is a link to the noise. Any input is greatly appreaciated

Converter noise - YouTube
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I can't view the video at work, but (1) are you certain that you got the converter seated all the way into the pump with 3 distinct "steps" and (2) are any of the torque converter bolts hitting either the starter plate or dust shield?
 
I can't view the video at work, but (1) are you certain that you got the converter seated all the way into the pump with 3 distinct "steps" and (2) are any of the torque converter bolts hitting either the starter plate or dust shield?
We checked the converter before it was put in. Spun fine It sounds the the ring gear hits when you turn the motor over. There is one point where you can turn the motor over and it stops the noise then it starts again. Bottom dust sheid isn't on and the starter isn't in. Is there a difference in manual start plate and auto ?
 
We checked the converter before it was put in. Spun fine It sounds the the ring gear hits when you turn the motor over. There is one point where you can turn the motor over and it stops the noise then it starts again. Bottom dust sheid isn't on and the starter isn't in. Is there a difference in manual start plate and auto ?

How did you check it? If when you installed the transmission there was a measureable gap between the flexplate and the converter and the converter had to be "pulled" to the flexplate to bolt them together it was in all the way. If there was interference it was not.

According to ASA there are two different part numbers for the starter plates:

Manual: MD167356
Auto: MD194962

Might be your culprit. Good luck.
 
Check the bolt heads for the converter bolts. I'd bet they are hitting someplace.
 
the converter is actually rubbing on the inside of the trans. Turns out its a jdm transmission and uses a shorter converter ? I'll upload pics of the converter later to show where its rubbing
 
JDM transmissions use the same converter i have installed like 15 of them. The only difference is a USDM 2g trans has a larger converter due to the lockup function.

It looks like the converter is not turning true in the bellhousing. Loosen all the flexplate bolts and then try to turn it.
 
JDM transmissions use the same converter i have installed like 15 of them. The only difference is a USDM 2g trans has a larger converter due to the lockup function.

It looks like the converter is not turning true in the bellhousing. Loosen all the flexplate bolts and then try to turn it.

That's kind of along the lines of what i was thinking. If the pilot bushing isn't installed in the end of the crank than the converter won't be 100 percent centered.
 
That's kind of along the lines of what i was thinking. If the pilot bushing isn't installed in the end of the crank than the converter won't be 100 percent centered.

Correct if the pilot bushing is not in the crank then that is a issue. The bolts will not center the TC properly. I hope the OP did not forget.
 
Whats the code on top of your JDM transmission?

A JDM w4a331uq62 Should work.
 
Whats the code on top of your JDM transmission?

A JDM w4a331uq62 Should work.

I dont have the code, but it should be f4a33.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
I dont have the code, but it should be f4a33.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The code is right on top of the trans close to the oil cooler lines.

If its still awd, it should start with a W. The FWDs start with the F. Is this the same car in your profile, or another?
 
The car is fwd that's in my profile. Wvturbo2 is a buddy of mine helping me with this. Code on the trans is f4a33k1upq
 
Definitely not the bolts. You can see where the ridges of the fins are welded, and rubbing on the oil pump. Mine did the same thing when it seated all the way down into the oil pump. Once it is bolted to the flexplate, it shouldn't rub anymore. It is pulled towards the rear main seal with the bolts.


To the original poster.
There are also JDM flex plates that can cause or even alleviate your problem. But if you are going make any sort of power, you might as well get the kiggly plate. I cannot guarantee it will work with your JDM transmission. Its just a heads up, as a single stock flexplate doesn't like horsepower.

Reason I asked for the code is because someone used a JDM trans with success, but the code was w4a331uq62. I'm not sure if it comes in FWD flavor, but maybe the importer you got your trans from can check.

Here is the thread on bbenders site for future reference.
http://www.atdsm.com/forum/index.php/topic,160.0.html
 
This trans is for turboaddict21 it is fwd. I have been helping with the swap
 
What type trans and motor 2g or 1g? The 6-bolt engine with a 2g trans needs a spacer plate to position the converter out more. That is the plate that comes with the kiggly 6-bolt in a 2g kit.
 
What type trans and motor 2g or 1g? The 6-bolt engine with a 2g trans needs a spacer plate to position the converter out more. That is the plate that comes with the kiggly 6-bolt in a 2g kit.

:ohdamn:

I totally missed that one. Turboanything is on the money if its a 2G auto on a 6bolt motor. The spacing will be too close and cause the issue at hand, hence the kiggly Adapter plate as he mentioned.
 
7 bolt motor, though later this summer my built 6 bolt will be going in.
 
:ohdamn:

I totally missed that one. Turboanything is on the money if its a 2G auto on a 6bolt motor. The spacing will be too close and cause the issue at hand, hence the kiggly Adapter plate as he mentioned.

I wish it was that simple of a fix LOL
 
Do you have one of the shims between the flex plate and crank? If so than that could be causing your problem.
 
Hopefully this will help narrow down some of the possibilities of what the issue could be. I sold him the parts for the fwd auto swap and it came out of my 98 usdm gst. Parts included were trans, flexplate and bolts, complete unhacked wireharness, axels, trans mounts,pedals, trans cooler, and 13qts of mitsu trans fluid. i was the third owner of the car, first was an older guy and the second was a teenage girl in high school. The only major repairs that were done to the car was lifter replacement done by the 1st owner. (dont know if it was recall or couldnt take the ticking) He owned it up until 80k, the second owners father did all the standard scheduled maintence. i purchased the car with roughly 132K and this was my dd up until 196k. Car was 100% bone stock when i purchased it so im sure the trans was the original. Only mods i did to the car was 16g whe the t25 died k&n filter and 2.5'' custom exhaust to stock muffler. The gst is the pic in my avatar.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top