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At what point does AWD need drag radials?

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To anwser your question yes awd can wheel hop. I've had it happen a few times one of those was on the rear of my drag car. I softened up the rear and it cured it. Do a search on it and see what ya come up with. I'm sure we are gettin a lil off topic from what the op asked.
 
wheel hop on a 4 wheel drive? ive had several gsx cars and have never experienced wheel hop. been in civics with decent power and they all tourqe steered and wheel hop'd to beat hell. all the dsm friends i have use the 4wheel drive model. i can honestly say ive never been in a gst. does the ff eclipse hop badly like a honda? ive never felt wheel hop in a 4 wheel drive car...

Any type of car can hop.
 
wow, ive always been in the 200-250 horsepower zone. i just this year did the fully built motor with big 272 cams, 8.5-1 forged pistons hx40 turbo and big fuel system. but since my car isnt fully operational yet i dont really know what to expect. i should have double the horse power of my old set up. maybe i never made enough power to wheel hop before. im totally excited to drive this sucker on 30psi hx40! maybe ill hop then. LOL. but yeah a lil off topic. i guesse slicks when you can afford them right?
 
ive always been under the understanding that the stock motor mounts that give are what aid to a long lasting tranny the whole motor and trans will rock back in the engine bay providing some cushion effect to the internals of the tranny. when the stiffy mounts are added all that load is just transfered to the tranny itself. and as far as i know that helps contrubute to broken parts. (not saying thats true, just saying thats how ive always pictured this)

You have a transfer case that shoud point directly at the rear end to keep stress off of the driveshaft and transfer case. When the trans moves it puts a shearing force on an already loaded transfer case. The reason you want stiff mounts, and good tires, is to prevent the forces on the drivetrain from oscillating. I can't find it right now but someone on here posted a slow motion video of a dsm launching with a stock, and welded diff. The stock center diff kept breaking axles because you could see the front and rear wheels alternate with each other in losing, and gaining traction. With the center diff welded all tires gripped with no spinning, and the drivetrain oscillations stopped breaking axles. The main issue is that when a wheel spins the limited slip diffs transfer torque to another tire, then it spins and torque is transfered to another tire, and it spins. In effect when you start to spin the tires on an awd car torque is shifted around the drivetrain instead of staticly being pushed to all 4 wheels.
Found the video, this is what happens when you launch and spin. YouTube - DSM LAUNCH SLOW MOTION
 
dude your a badass! thanks so much for posting that! theres a ton of people that will read all this and watch that video and totally grasp the concept. ive been a dsm'er for about 8 years now, broken center diff on two 1g trannys and one 2g tranny. never really "truley" understood this. i really dont mean to go off topic but what are the pros and cons to welded center diff? should we just start a new thread? im sure welded center diff efects the handling in corners. if i got this mod done would i regret it? i like drag racing and i like driving the turns on the mountain pass. if there is welded center diff and your going very slow in a gravel parking lot and you cut the wheel all the way sharp to turn into a parking spot, doesnt the tires lock up and sorta drag in the gravel? would love to learn more.
 
Search the boards theres plenty of threads about pros and cons to welded diffs, I started one last year.

Basically the car becomes shitty to drive around with on a regular basis if your doing a lot of city driving and tight parking space parking because the turning angles go to #### as all four tires want to keep turning the same speed with each other.

Handling - car wanted to understeer more, and under extreme situations it will flip the script on you and do a whip out oversteer type of thing ( normally if your trying to make it do it) So overall the handling is not as nimble with the welded diff, but its manageable.

The traction improvement is the only real benefit other than not breaking the stock 2 spyder which is a big deal. But you still spin, mines still spins with the welded diff on a 2step launch, the only difference is it accelerates a little faster while its spinning, and the back wheels get more traction than with open diff. My friend standing outside the car noticed this after I did a hard launch and the back tires started kicking up smoke after I welded the diff which never happened before.

If you looking to make power and launch the piss out of the car Id say go for the welded diff if you can properly get it done cheap and dont drive the car everyday , especially if you do a lot of city driving. It can become stressing on the rear end after awhile as I hear, but normally takes a lot of miles to show. Otherwise get a 4 spider if you have the money for it, in which I didnt.
For a pure drag car welded diff is definitely the best route, and the traction would probably be nuts with slicks on all fours and a welded diff..

That should sum it up.
 
^^^Good reply for the welded center diff issue. I agree with everything. . .

. . .And I think it's worth the driving issues in town even :) Hmmm which should I do. :rolleyes: Think about how you're going to park or replace the tranny yet again.
 
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