1G At a loss with my clutch disengagement

[Nuzzi]

I have replaced everything in my clutch system and it still releases just off the floor.
All new parts within the last couple months:
Oem slave and master cylinders w/ss one piece line
Complete pedal assembly rebuild (not welded)
Act streetlight flywheel
Southbend ssx-tz/b clutch kit
Oem TO bearing with new god clip
Comp forged shift fork and new pivot ball
The fork is centered in the bellhousing.
Bled the shit out of the system, no air.
Master is adjusted all the way out.

I have to bury the pedal in the carpet to shift without grinding, what gives here?

 

[Marchev]

Have you checked your step height on your flywheel? Even if it's new, it could be off..

 

[93AWDDSM]

bingo. everything must be checked even if it's "new". My 93 was the exact same way before I replaced everything. I replaced Master/slave, OEM TOB, flywheel stepped to the correct height and then was I finally able to properly set everything. Once that was all done I could rev in 1st gear to 7100 RPM and it wouldn't budge. (I also, went stock excedy clutch with OEM flywheel but made sure the specs were correct for both..)

I also positioned my clutch fork slightly towards the driver side for more throw and never had any problems after that.... besides crank walking the 7 bolt

 

[pauleyman]

I have replaced everything in my clutch system and it still releases just off the floor.
All new parts within the last couple months:
Oem slave and master cylinders w/ss one piece line
Complete pedal assembly rebuild (not welded)
Act streetlight flywheel
Southbend ssx-tz/b clutch kit
Oem TO bearing with new god clip
Comp forged shift fork and new pivot ball
The fork is centered in the bellhousing.
Bled the sh** out of the system, no air.
Master is adjusted all the way out.

I have to bury the pedal in the carpet to shift without grinding, what gives here?

The one thing you didnt mention is flywheel step. I think the fork should be a little towards drivers side. Did you assume the step is good because its new? It isn't.

 

[GST with PSI]

Where's the clutch fork positioned in the trans window?

 

[Nuzzi]

I did not check the flywheel, so it could very well be off. I took for granted that it should be correct being new. The fork is centered.

 

[9 T GSX]

Might want to take your clutch saddle bracket off and weld an extra nut on the end of it. This will give alot more adjustability. Have you raised the cruise control switch at the top of the pedal?

 

[pauleyman]

I did not check the flywheel, so it could very well be off. I took for granted that it should be correct being new. The fork is centered.

I prefer a little to the drivers side. Never assume. Always measure.

 

[donniekak]

If you can adjust the master rod out until it doesn't self adjust the problem isn't figuring out how to adjust it out further. This will destroy a tob, or crank walk an engine.

 

[Nuzzi]

The cruise switch is backed out, and the I would say the fork is just slightly toward the driver side. The master is adjusted basicaly as far out as it can go, and yes the valve is still open. The pedal is as high as up as it can go while still having just a touch of freeplay. Im wondering if I still have some air in there because it seems like the first half inch or so does nothing.

 

[turboglenn]

I had the same issue and checked everything, y 2g shifted perfect but the same engine and clutch in my 1g engaged right off the floor, even after rebuilding the peda, using SS clutch line and everything else I found an article that said to use a 2g master cylinder rod in the 1g master cylinder and it's perect, I can put the engagement point anywhere I want and no pump up on the pedal

here;'s a link to the article
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/master-cylinder-rod-adjustment-fix.462232/