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ARP head stud torque (6 bolt)

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DSMopar

15+ Year Contributor
615
15
Oct 6, 2007
Vista, California
Yes I already searched, I'm using a composite gasket. I need to know the torque specs WITH ARP lube, not 30 wt oil.
 
In the directions that came with mine said to tighten them to 100 ft lbs.


EDIT: Sorry I meant to say 90 ft lbs with moly lube, so I went 45-70-90. Is this correct? Or shall I tighten them more?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
ok so let me get this straight.... its 30w motor oil or something else..... also some say different torque specs so im lost.... im about to install my head with a resurface block and head using a mitsubishi dealer oem head gasket... oh another thing is im reusing my arp head studs..... thanks in advance...!!!!
 
I've got the instructions for my regular ARP head studs for my 6 bolt and with ARP moly lube the torque is 80ft/lbs. And when i have the head off i use moly lube and go in a series of 30 - 55 - 80.

Now one thing that always has puzzled me is the re-torque of the head bolts after a few heat cycles. This is where i set the torque wrench to 100 - 110 and check/torque them in sequence. The reason i do this is because i figure that the heat and splasing oil has dissipated most of the moly lube or at least contaminated it by the time you're due for the re-torque'ing. There's been times that i've checked them and even though i only put them to 80ft/lbs with the moly, when i double checked them with the wrench set to 110 they didn't even budge, which is my i believe the moly lube gets washed out or contaminated to where it looses it's lubrication properties aftera few heat cycles with oil on it
 
A higher torque value is required when using motor oil, as there is more friction between the threads of the nut and the threads of the stud, as apposed to using moly lube.

I would buy some moly lube if I didn't already own some. It's worth using if you want to achieve more consistent torquing across the head.
 
Ok so were could i find moly lube?
ARP 100-9908 - ARP Ultra Torque Assembly Lubricant - Overview - SummitRacing.com


Do not torque regular ARPs to 100+ ft/lbs, regardless of what anyone else says. It's 80-85 ft/lbs with moly lube and 120 ft/lbs with 30wt oil.

An ARP studs torque value is actually typically 75% of the yield strength. But ARP's torque recommendations are usually a little on the conservative side, so you can usually exceed their recommendations by a little bit, but not much. If 80 ft/lbs is 75% of it's yield strength, then 100% would put it at around 107 ft/lbs. That's why it pains me to see guys torquing standard ARPs to 105 ft/lbs (with moly) thinking that it's better, when in reality they're ruining their studs before they even use them.

The reason for the higher value with motor oil is due to friction. The threads will drag and create friction and that will "inflate" the torque value. 120 ft/lbs with motor oil is basically 80 ft/lbs of torque and 40 ft/lbs of friction drag. In the end, the nut will be equally tight with either method, but using moly lube will yield a more accurate clamp force across the board.
 
Funny....because those numbers are not what were printed on my ARP sheet
 
85 (90 if you're running over 30psi) should be your final torque with moly lube. I did 30-60-85-0-30-60-85....
120 should be final torque with 10-30 mtr. oil which is 40-80-115-0-40-80-120.....

Then after a few heat cycles, I ran my car for 500 miles or so, then took the valve cover off, set my torque wrench to 110 and nothing budged. Because after the heat cycles, the studs have no more moly lube on them, jsut oil from your head, so im sure you would have to set your wrench to like 125 to even budge the nuts. Moly lube is pretty precise, I woud use that over motor oil.
 
I'm using OEM MLS, and standard ARPs for my 6bolt. I did 30,60,90 (More like 29,59,88). Used lube that came with the studs.
 
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