The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

ARP bolts

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mentow

15+ Year Contributor
38
0
Nov 25, 2005
Florianopolis, South America
Do i really need those all around my engine?

Im willing to run 20psi on a full stock 7bolt, so what would happen if im not using ARP bolts? Why are those so special against the OEM ones?

I made a search through the forum but im not sure if i need those on a stock engine, since im not planning extreme boosts...

Regards!

Michel
 
You should be ok to run 20psi. ARP hardware does not streacth under high heat/boost like stock bolts can. Its always a good idea to put in some ARP studs in if you work on/replace your head and have plans to upgrade in the future.
 
The excellent thing about ARP head studs is that they don't stretch. The OEM head bolts are designed to stretch when you torque them, so they are usually about a one-time use (depending on mileage).

In my case, I took the head off and got it refreshed with new seals and gaskets all around. I put in ARP head studs because they were just a few dollars more than the stock ones that I'd have to buy anyway. Now, I am taking the motor apart. So I get to reuse the ARP's instead of having to buy yet another set of OEM ones.

As far as rod bolts and main cap bolts go, the normal person will not disassemble their motor enough to make them worthwhile as far as stretching. However, ARP is the strongest hardware on the market, so if you're pushing big horsepower, ARP's are almost a must.

In my opinion, 20 psi on a stock 7 bolt would not justify ARP rod bolts or main bolts unless you're taking your motor apart anyway. I definitely recommend head studs, though.
 
brute said:
The excellent thing about ARP head studs is that they don't stretch. The OEM head bolts are designed to stretch when you torque them, so they are usually about a one-time use (depending on mileage).

In my case, I took the head off and got it refreshed with new seals and gaskets all around. I put in ARP head studs because they were just a few dollars more than the stock ones that I'd have to buy anyway. Now, I am taking the motor apart. So I get to reuse the ARP's instead of having to buy yet another set of OEM ones.

As far as rod bolts and main cap bolts go, the normal person will not disassemble their motor enough to make them worthwhile as far as stretching. However, ARP is the strongest hardware on the market, so if you're pushing big horsepower, ARP's are almost a must.

In my opinion, 20 psi on a stock 7 bolt would not justify ARP rod bolts or main bolts unless you're taking your motor apart anyway. I definitely recommend head studs, though.

Very well put!

You should be fine with the stock ones. One of the moderators here(99gst_racer) is putting down 400+hp on stock head gasket and head studs.
 
nice guys, thanks for posting! I'll check my stock ones for wear/stretching, and then choose what to do.

Regards!

Michel
 
From learning the hard way I seriously recommend buying new bolts. My old stock bolts showed no stretching or stress so I reused them only to have coolant leak in. When I got my new bolts I compared them to find the old ones had been stretched 1/8 of an inch. Redoing all my work because of simple bolts was a drag. :(
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top