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Another RWD 2g

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nope it looks to be setup for a electric water pump

so where is the thermostat housing going to be? are you gonna make a new place for the coolant to exit the head?
 
Was the whole car space framed? Do you think this conversion could work on a normal front end of a 2g? As I plan on building a rwd race 2g and I'd like to get a proper tranny that's seq! Also why is the engine mounted so far back? Any positives on that? Built looks awesome and good luck on fabing the parts up will be very tricky but it will all be worth it
 
Won't that engine have to come forward more or is there enough room for the thermostat housing in there?
so where is the thermostat housing going to be? are you gonna make a new place for the coolant to exit the head?
It won't be running a thermostat housing or even a thermostat for that matter. If you look slosely at the 3rd picture, you can see both -16 bungs for coolant flow. It will run an electric water pump (EMS controlled) and an inline filler.

Also why is the engine mounted so far back?
It was good for weight distribution, but if the engine sat any farther forward, it wouldn't clear the hood. It barely clears as it is. Mounting a steering rack would also be another major challenge if it sat any farther forward.

I was going to mention the tial hotside as well. By the looks of the bay i assume i topmount. I would love to see a long tube on there but it would not be smooth. I'm waiting to see what you guys come up with.
It will probably be a topmount and the turbo will probably sit a bit forward of the timing belt. We'll find out soon though.
 
Paul, why did he choose the GTX4202R? From what I have seen of it, it is not worth the additional cost. I would have just taken a standard GT4202R and put in a GT4508R compressor wheel with a machined compressor cover and machine up a billet backplate with a TiAL housing for a better turbo that has an 80mm inducer/108mm exducer and has very similar spoolup characteristics to the GT4202R with an additional 15-20lb/min airflow.


Awesome buildup! I cannot wait to see more from it!
A dsm vendor offered me a good deal on one. Only a few hundred more than a standard 4202r and cheaper than a 45r. The GTX adds the billet wheel similar to the borg warner and provides higher pressure ratios with that additional 20lb/min over a standard 4202r. So you have a 73mm compressor that is obviously going to spool faster (smaller, lighter). If you look at garrett compressor maps, the gtx42 you can still be in the efficiency area at 5 pressure ratio (~60psi boost) with 100lb/min flow whereas the 45r you're way off the chart. The gtx42 simply outflows the 45r almost everywhere and more efficient.

LOL, nice job but he coulda just went Auto on the AWD and stopped breaking parts. Manual's the devil.
We have one of those too. Running mid-11's now but fully capable of 10s working properly. The RWD project should be capable of mid to low 7s and reliable 8s all day long. The auto awd setups just don't seem to be as reliable once they get in the 8s.

Was the whole car space framed? Do you think this conversion could work on a normal front end of a 2g? As I plan on building a rwd race 2g and I'd like to get a proper tranny that's seq! Also why is the engine mounted so far back? Any positives on that? Built looks awesome and good luck on fabing the parts up will be very tricky but it will all be worth it
Not sure but this way is far lighter. It weighs 1900# right now and we estimate no more than 2300# with driver race ready. The doors are full weight and sunroof as well. Theres another 150# that can come out of the car if needed.

Labor on the front end conversion was around $4500. The chassis shop provided parts at cost!
 
This will be like the 2G version of slowboy's black betty...but more sleeper and stockish looking on the outside, except for the giant drag slicks in the rear.
 
What front end are you running? Project looks great and is there a reason you went with a T400 over something smaller and lighter?
 
he went that far why not 2jz?? That 4g looks puny in there but it should "decimate all" LOL.

I think the idea is to be fast, not slow... May be just my perception of the whole RWD Plan.

6.65 @ 209mph in a 6cyl
or
6.87 @ 201mph in a 4cyl

My numbers may be a little off, I'm not up to date on whats the fastest 2JZ or Fastest 4G63 right now. Always thought that rail car would have killed Brent Rau already.

anyway this project is god! Love the craftsmanship!
 
Wow that is sick. It is ridiculous how much room there is under the hood when you don't have a tranny or cx axels or a transfer case stuck in there.
 
Anyone answer this for me?
The front end is all factory so far (hood, fenders, bumper cover, etc...). I think he's going to pick up a CF hood for it sometime down the road, but the rest of the frontend will probably stay the way it is.

I can't remember his resoning behind why he went with the th400. I'll see if I can get him to chime in on it.
 
Thanks I was actually asking mores about the struts and steering system then body parts though should have made my post a little clearer.
 
The steering rack is made by Flaming River. I can't remember the application, but I believe it's a Mustang II rack. The steering column and shaft are homemade out of chromoly tubing.

The front spindles, brakes, shocks, springs, and arms are all part of an Aerospace kit.
 
What front end are you running? Project looks great and is there a reason you went with a T400 over something smaller and lighter?

Was originally going to go the powerglide route, but didn't like the gearing... I mean 100mph in first then 170 in second? Without a VERY high stall it will not get off the line well. Then to build it strong you need to spend more money on hard parts. ~$3000 to hold up.

A T350 is only good for maybe 600 hp no matter how you build it. I broke a Magnus dogbox. If it isn't VERY strong I WILL break it. Don't let me even start about *magnus*.

The T400 is relatively cheap to build strong. Has better gearing ie 65 in first, ~110 in second, and 170 in third. You can use a lower stall and not bog as easy off the line.

For 7's and 6s something like a Gforce trans or air shifted lenco would be more efficient but they're still heavy. I may switch to one later on if I can afford it.

And really for weight... its losing a 1000 pounds since I got a clean pass at 10.1 140mph. I think that should be enough. If I need another 100 pounds out I have the stock doors, glass, and sunroof to pull weight.

I'd like to thank everyone for the positive feedback.

I'll have all winter to finish this up *right* and can't wait to get it down the track.
 
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